Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

JPG

50-50 acetone-atf likely will work better.

chapmanruss

Sorry to confuse you when I said,

One thing I noticed in your last post was the Headstock and the Quill Lock installed backwards. The handle should be on the front side.

I should have said

One thing I noticed in your last post on the Headstock is the Quill Lock installed backwards. The handle should be on the front/operators side.

That may have been clearer.

JPG is correct about the Carriage being mounted backwards. Also give JPG's recommendation of 50-50 Acetone & ATF a try for those stuck parts. The combination gets into parts and frees them better than other lubricants.

Right now don't worry too much about parts being mounted correctly. When putting things back together after cleaning and painting will be the time for that. The diagrams in the Owner's Manual will help with that. As always if you need help we are here.

jumpmaster

Thank you for that, Russ and to jpg for the suggestion on acetone and ATF to free up the parts so I can take it apart.

I’ve soaked a lot of the rust-caked parts in Evaporust and I can see what they are now...looks like I have a couple of arbors and a faceplate (maybe? About 3” dia. and about 5/16” thick with small holes around the circumference) to screw a larger wood piece on for turning...I think...

I found the cup center firmly rusted into the tailstock so will need to get that cleaned up too...

I’ll keep at it...will post questions as I have them...thank y’all..

jumpmaster

Here’s what I pulled out of the Evaporust today...I know I have a chuck key, a faceplate, some knobs, and a couple of arbors...not sure of the specifics on the arbors and knobs...

Found a stop collar and set screw too...

Anyone know offhand the hex nut size on the tailstock please? Neither of my adjustable wrenches open large enough and my 1-7/16” was a bit too large...and I don’t have any between that and around 1” so I’ll have to order something else to use to remove it...

JPG

Take good care of the brass threaded knob. You should have two of them.

oh. 1 1/4?

jumpmaster

JPG wrote Take good care of the brass threaded knob. You should have two of them.

oh. 1 1/4?

Unfortunately, it only came with this one unless the other one is still on the machine somewhere...I’ll go check...

JPG

IIRC they are the main table height clamping knobs.

jumpmaster

Table stop knobs? Does the one spare brass threaded one go here where the arrow is pointing?

I don’t think I have the correct table rods...

JPG

Missing knob - check!

Why do you think the table posts are incorrect?

jumpmaster

JPG wrote Why do you think the table posts are incorrect?

One is quite a bit longer than the other one... I don’t know if they cut one of them down or what.

I’m at least the third owner, so do not know its history, unfortunately...

BTW, the carriage is able to move freely on the way tubes now...yay! Going to try to move the headstock later...Edit: headstock can now move freely as well!!!

jumpmaster

I think I have located all the parts here now...going to get the motor rewired this week...check the bearings, etc...

Figured out what one extra part was for...fence for the table...will not be using the table saw, but will be useful for horizontal boring...

Other piece goes on the end once I get it cleaned up...

jumpmaster

Also, I tried to move the quill lock handle over to the other side where y’all told me it should be, but I’m afraid I might be missing some parts...please see pics...all I have when I removed it was the handle and a hex nut. 🙁

JPG

"IF" all you have is the handle and the nut, WHAT is centering the threads in the middle of that large bore?

I think you will find a wedge inside.

Hopefully it is installed correctly?

jumpmaster

JPG wrote "IF" all you have is the handle and the nut, WHAT is centering the threads in the middle of that large bore?

I think you will find a wedge inside.

Hopefully it is installed correctly?

........or the wedge may be long gone...like I said, it’s had at least two previous owners. And the carriage is mounted backwards...no telling what all is missing or messed up. :(

I don’t think I’ll be able to turn it over by myself with my back the way it is. :(

JPG

I think if the wedge was 'long gone', the nut/handle would be real floppy in the rather large bore and not tighten down until the threads run out.

jumpmaster

JPG wrote I think if the wedge was 'long gone', the nut/handle would be real floppy in the rather large bore and not tighten down until the threads run out.

I’ll try to look in there...brb...

jumpmaster

Not sure what it’s supposed to look like in there, but I managed to get some pics...almost dropped it...need to find help to move it around...or a hoist or something...

I don’t think I understand the facetious tone here...what have I apparently done wrong??

jumpmaster

Ok, well 35 views of the pics and no replies.

I’m thinking the wedge(s) are gone. Otherwise, why would one of the previous owners have just stuck a hex nut on the outside?? Also, there is an obvious milled-out area for a key on the operator side of the quill lock, but nothing is present there. That’s why I theorized earlier that they were “LONG GONE” — and I’m still not sure why I was mocked for that comment, but anyway...by the serial number, it sounds like mine should have the double wedge setup. And it has the slot milled into the headstock casting for a key, so it’s probably the keyed one with the spring. Sounds like that one is not very common. Some kind folks have suggested using the brass version and putting a pin/pins where the key slot is. I’d really rather just use the one meant for my machine though instead of just trying to kludge something together that might sort of work ok...

JPG

Facetiousness not intended. Sorry if it seemed so.

I merely do not think the threaded handle with a nut would be anything but flopping in that bore.

In yer pix, that rib obscures the possible exposure of the wedge.

When you remove the nut and extract the handle, what does it look like looking into the bore?

chapmanruss

This may help. In the picture below is the Quill Lock Assemblies. Yours with the keyed version will look like the 3rd from the left. It includes the Handle, Nut, Washer, front Wedge, back Wedge (which the nut fits into) and the spring.

From what I see and JPG is referring to it looks like at least one, if not both, of the wedges are still in the Headstock. I can see a wedge behind the nut on the back side of the Headstock. Hopefully as you continue to disassemble it you will get the wedges out of the headstock. The wedges are made of an alloy metal and some corrosion may be keeping them there. If you need replacement parts for the Quill Lock refer to the picture for help in identifying the correct one. Some sellers have no idea of the difference between these versions let alone the difference between the Quill Lock and the Headstock and Carriage Way Tube Locks. Only the Quill Lock has the keyed wedges like yours and the handle is bent differently on the Quill Lock.

Using one of the other Quill Lock versions would work fine except the single wedge version. The Brass version (left in the picture above) is less common than yours. The key only aligns the wedges and keeps it there if loosened to much. The 2nd version would work fine in your headstock it just needs to be aligned as it is assembled just like in the earlier Headstock versions or the same as the Way Tube Locks in all versions.

Quill Locks all versions.jpg

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