Beginning fixing up a 10E — Need help please

jumpmaster

Thank you jpg and Russ...There is a key slot cut into the casting, so I think I would need the keyed handle/wedges.

Also, the handle does just flop around in there until it comes out the other side of the casting...

I will continue to disassemble and see what’s going on in there.

Thanks again...

chapmanruss

Looking back at a couple things we haven't clarified yet. The Table posts should be 13" long. Hopefully one of the two you have is that long. It does seem odd that someone would cut off one of them.

I was looking back at the picture you posted after cleaning up some parts. I have reposted it below. The round item, in the lower right corner, may be a lathe faceplate but not a Shopsmith one. To be useable it needs a 5/8" diameter bore with a set screw to attach it to the spindle. There is one arbor as noted that is not a Shopsmith arbor. It is the 1/2" threaded arbor with 2 set screws. It can still be used if it has a 5/8" bore to go on the spindle.

After so many years non-Shopsmith parts/items commonly get mixed in with a Shopsmith Tool. Sometimes because they were being used on the Shopsmith or simply because they look like they could belong to the Shopsmith.

jumpmaster accessories.jpeg

jumpmaster

Understood...I will try to sort out the correct parts...right now, I’m working with the knobs...the brass threaded one went in the other carriage stop...still need to locate the other three...trying to match them up with the exploded diagram...

Also, should be able to tap out the cup center this afternoon...

chapmanruss

The 4 Knobs shown in you picture above are -

upper left - either the Headrest or Base Plate (lock for Drill Press Position) They are nearly the same although the Base Plate one is usually beveled on the end of the threads. This is to avoid damaging the end of the threads when screwing into the Arm of the Base Assembly.

lower left - is the Carriage Knob for locking the table height and there are 2.

upper right - is for locking the Extension Table Bracket to the Tailstock.

lower right - is for locking the Tailstock to the Shopsmith.

A knob I haven't seen in your pictures is the Table Riser Knob which locks the Table Riser Arm to the Table Post. The knob itself looks similar to the rear fence lock knob but has a brass threaded stud.

jumpmaster

I cannot get the cup center out of the tailstock. I soaked it in evaporust and it appears completely clean now, but I cannot get it out with brass drift and hammer.

Will have to try to get some ATF and mix up the acetone stuff I guess. If I can get the large hex nuts loose on it, it should come out also, right?

chapmanruss

If you remove the nut on the floating center it will come right out. I use large adjustable Crescent Wrenches for that. I would remove the center first. Tapping the back side should have knocked it loose already. It is a standard #2 Morse Taper Lathe Dead Center and only friction fits in the tailstock. Do use caution "knocking" it out and have something, and not a hand or other body part, to catch it to avoid damaging the point.

jumpmaster

I mean, I’m using a brass drift and hammer hitting it pretty hard...do I just really need to knock the living **** out of it? I will make sure it lands on a soft surface.

Should I be hitting the center part only? Or the entire diameter just shy of the nut?

I have two crescent type adjustable wrenches, but neither opens large enough to grip these. :(

chapmanruss

Hit only the inside part where the red arrow is pointing to. I shouldn't take a lot of force

jumpmaster tailstock.jpeg

JPG

Hit the center only(that is the part being removed). See pix above.

Have the hex shaped part on the opposite side fixed(stationary/against an anvil like thingie[large mass]).

Simultaneous rotating force to the tailstock using a rod through the hole MAY help.

YES banging the crap out of it MAY be required. Sneak op on the big bang gradually.

jumpmaster

Ok, got it...have a small anvil I will try bracing it with and will hit center part only. Thanks, fellas...

JPG

It would be good if that anvil had a hole in it.

jumpmaster

JPG wrote It would be good if that anvil had a hole in it.

It does, but sadly not large enough for the cup center...about 15 pounds, so pretty small...

jumpmaster

I just tried again for about a half hour...that thing isn’t budging. :(

jumpmaster

Hi, Russ...you mentioned not seeing a table riser arm... I looked it up and do have one...it has a set screw in it at the moment instead of that small knob. I don’t have any other small knobs to replace the set screw, so I’ll need to try to source one...

chapmanruss

WOW, I can't believe the Lathe Center is that stuck in the Tailstock's Floating Center. Leaving it that way would still be okay since it doesn't interfere with the use of the Extension Table. It would simply be there all the time.

It was just the knob for the Table Raising Arm I had not seen. The set screw will work okay but will mark up/indent the Table Post over time especially if it is a cup center set screw. That is not a good thing for the table post. Get a flat faced set screw or a replacement knob to avoid that. Again the knob has a brass threaded stud like the locks for the table posts in the carriage. The brass ones will lock better than steel without marring the posts.

I was thinking after my previous post about the Table Post length. First is the longer post 13" and is the shorter post 6"? I ask because in your pictures I saw the Lathe Tool Rest and Arm but not the post. The Post for the Lathe Tool Rest Assembly is 6" long and of course the same diameter as the Table Posts. There is a collar that goes on the lathe tool rest post which you have and was in the picture with the knobs.

jumpmaster

Yes, one is short and one is long (table posts)...but if you look in the picture of the cleaned up parts, that steel rod is there too...the tool rest can fit on one end of that rod...not sure if that’s how it’s supposed to go though...

I’ll try to find the proper knob for the handle...

chapmanruss

I wasn't sure about the diameter or length of the rod in the picture with the knobs. Below is the Arm, Post and Collar without the 8" tool rest. It is the later version of the arm so a little different than yours.

Anyway you still need to have two 13" long table posts. There isn't really anything special about the table posts so you could buy a piece of rod stock to make a replacement. Something to note it does not even have to be solid rod since late in production the Model 10ER had hollow posts. Just make sure the post stock is rigid enough.

If you list where you are located someone close to you may have needed parts and could help you out.

Lathe Arm and Post 105-2 V2 view 2.jpg

jumpmaster

Ok, I’ll keep that in mind...may just order a rod from mcmaster.com

So I had loads of fun today...lol. I took the motor to get rewired...I’m ok with DC stuff, but I leave the AC stuff to the professionals. Please don’t burn me at the stake — I understand I could probably figure it out ok, but I just don’t want to mess with it and want it to be right/safe. Plus I don’t really want to mess with trying to test the startup cap in there. No thank you.

So in the process of doing that, we took the switch off the headstock which means I can disassemble the headstock now. I pray to the Good Lord I’ll be able to put it back together. I really want to get everything rust-free, clean/repack the bearings if y’all think I should, etc. I’ve read of the dangers/difficulty of retensioning the quill spring...

I think there are wedges in there for the quill lock, but the lock handle does just flop around in there until you push it through the casting and put the nut on the outside...so I still need to figure out what’s going on with that.

I got the casting off the far end of the way tubes and am hitting them hard with brass brush, wd-40, and scotchbrite.

The end that pivots, I’m trying to get the way tubes out of there and get the carriage off so I can clean it up too. I’m trying tapping the table rods out of the carriage (the lock knobs have already been removed) and it’s soaking in PB blaster now...

The cup center is still stuck. Other than soaking in acetone/atf, I’m not sure what else to try...

I’d love to put the way tubes into some PVC pipes to soak in evaporust...I guess that would be the fastest way to get all the rust off...

chapmanruss

In the last post you mentioned

clean/repack the bearings if y’all think I should

There are two sets of 2 bearings. 2 for the Drive Sleeve and 2 for the Quill. All are sealed bearings so if they are bad they need to be replaced.

jumpmaster

chapmanruss wrote In the last post you mentioned

clean/repack the bearings if y’all think I should
There are two sets of 2 bearings. 2 for the Drive Sleeve and 2 for the Quill. All are sealed bearings so if they are bad they need to be replaced.

I cannot feel or hear any problems with the bearings yet, but haven’t tried spinning it with the motor...

I’m located in College Station, TX, btw...

I got a pulley from a guy that told me it was the headstock pulley, but...1) it doesn’t fit on the headstock drive shaft and 2) it’s keyed. I believe you told me before that only the motor pulley is keyed, correct?

Made more progress today and am now completely worn out...lol

1. Got motor to the shop for rewiring

2. Got headstock off the ways

3. Got the carriage off the ways

4. Got the ways off the baseplate

5. Got the tie bar removed and brass wire brushed

6. Got the rods out of the carriage — took ***forever*** because one rod had apparently been beaten on before because the very edge was just proud of the hole it was in, so I had to file the edges down (bit of a chamfer) to get the rod out...the short rod was a PITA as well, but it’s out now. What size exactly should these rods be? I think I will be ordering new ones as these are quite soft and have gouges in them

7. Got the heavy aluminum table cleaned and getting that back together to receive the pivot / baseplate and headrest

Whew!!!!! I’m beat...it was 85F here today...still 82F now at 17:45...

« Previous Page