Schedule a Meeting · Talk to a real woodworker: +1 937-890-5197 · 8:00AM – 4:30PM ET

Start trips breaker

BigSky

If you are about to replace the drive belt thisd ids s video that you may want to watch. Lubricating is NOT discussed in this video but this would be an ideal time to do that. After the belt is removed and before it is put back on the sheaves move easily. Not is the time.

JACOBEIS

has any tried the KEVLAR BELT for the Shop Smith 510

I thought I ordered it but Pay pal never went through

john_001

If you're having problems with your machine, I'd suggest buying the belt from Shopsmith. That way, you won't have to worry about possibly introducing another source of difficulty.

JACOBEIS

I purchased a Shop Smith belt for the 510

after I hooked it all up (before I put the Head Stock back on the rails)

with the Top Sheaves opened all the way (Slowest speed)

In order to get the belt to be right tension I closed the top Sheaves Just a little

I turned the Sanding disk just to see if the belt would moved up on the Top Sheave

It did NOT (as I turned the Speed Controller)

I Set it back to Slow & turned on the Motor

it spun very slowly I started to turn the speed controller very slowly

it went a little faster BUT IT STARTED TO SMELL AND PEICES OF THE RUBBER BELT WAS SHREADING

and then it tripped the circuit

The top Sheaves are smooth and inter lock OK

all is oiled with 3 in 1 oil

Do the Top Sheaves have to be replaced???

If so what is wrong with them??

john_001

JACOBEIS wrote In order to get the belt to be right tension I closed the top Sheaves Just a little

The belt should tension itself automatically if the belt is the right length. That's what the spring on the motor is for. You shouldn't have to mess with the top sheaves to tension the belt.

Take the belt off. Turn the sanding disk. It should turn easily. If it doesn't, the problem is in the top end.

Turn the speed control to "slow". The top sheaves should be close together. Now turn the speed control up to "fast". You should be able to move the control sheave (the inner-most top sheave) back to separate it from the idler sheave (the one in front). If the control sheave doesn't move easily, there's something wrong, either lubrication or damage.

DLB

JACOBEIS wrote I purchased a Shop Smith belt for the 510

after I hooked it all up (before I put the Head Stock back on the rails)

with the Top Sheaves opened all the way (Slowest speed)

Important: opened all the way is fastest speed. And it can open too far if out of adjustment, allowing the belt to run on the portion of the sheaves that is not "V" shaped and not intended for the belt.

In order to get the belt to be right tension I closed the top Sheaves Just a little

I turned the Sanding disk just to see if the belt would moved up on the Top Sheave

It did NOT (as I turned the Speed Controller)

I Set it back to Slow & turned on the Motor

it spun very slowly I started to turn the speed controller very slowly

it went a little faster BUT IT STARTED TO SMELL AND PEICES OF THE RUBBER BELT WAS SHREADING

and then it tripped the circuit

These symptoms are consistent with the top sheaves opening too far or the belt being too narrow, allowing it to get too deep into the sheaves on that non- "V" portion. There may be other causes, but that is the one that comes to mind.

The top Sheaves are smooth and inter lock OK

all is oiled with 3 in 1 oil

Do the Top Sheaves have to be replaced???

If so what is wrong with them??

Minimum belt width for the Mark is 1/2". We can work around it some if slightly narrower, but this is the rule. There is an adjustable mechanical stop that limits how far apart the upper sheaves can be, called the high speed stop. I'm thinking yours is allowing the sheaves to get too far apart, allowing the belt to ride too deep in the sheaves. Because that portion is not "V" shaped the belt will not move farther up when you adjust the controller. Instead the sheaves will pinch the belt. Another possibility is that the floating sheave is not moving in response.

Fastest speed if belt is correct and stop is correctly set: Motor belt should be about 1/8" in from the outer edges of the motor sheaves when you reach the high speed mechanical limit. If the belt is out farther than that it is too deep in the idler sheaves. While these conditions are present the speed dial should be on Fast. (But don't worry about correcting the dial right now.)

- David

JACOBEIS

To all those that helped me

I want to thank you very much

I finally got the motor speed working

now this is no longer my problem form

no I tried to hook up my bandsaw ant the plastic accessory piece does not line up

I had to pry up the bandsaw but the head stock was off side to side I pulled the stock to line wp with the now level band saw

it worked but I feel all this work should nor be necessary any suggestions or proper form for this problem

as always thank you all for you help

DLB

JACOBEIS wrote To all those that helped me

I want to thank you very much

I finally got the motor speed working

now this is no longer my problem form

no I tried to hook up my bandsaw ant the plastic accessory piece does not line up

I had to pry up the bandsaw but the head stock was off side to side I pulled the stock to line wp with the now level band saw

it worked but I feel all this work should nor be necessary any suggestions or proper form for this problem

as always thank you all for you help

Great! Please post what the actual problem and solution were to help others having this/similar startup issue.

I suggest you start a new thread for the bandsaw issue. It is fairly easy to correct but what is needed from you is info on version of mounting tubes and the direction(s) of error. Pictures are usually useful, for example there are at least four types of mounting tubes for the BS but you've probably only seen one. Easier for one of us to tell you what you have unless you are sure.

- David

JACOBEIS

THANK YOU

« Previous Page