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Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

mickyd

FYI - With the thread getting so long and covering so many topics, it was getting difficult to locate specific items / topics. Decided to put a hyperlinked index back at post #1 . Works out pretty well! Check it out.

Also added an index to my Greenie restoration thread.

mickyd

[font=Verdana]Here's my recreated CUSTOM brass motor nameplate for the ER10. I decided to try a water slide decal process instead of the acid etch process used for recreating the main ShopSmith nameplate, reason being, I didn't think the tiny lettering above the information blocks stood a chance at making it though the acid bath without getting etched away. Water slide decals are the same we used as kids when making models.[/font]

[font=Verdana]Original nameplate[/font]
[font=Verdana]Water Slide Decal[/font]
[font=Verdana].032" Brass stock trimmed to size[/font]
[font=Verdana]Finished part[/font]

[font=Verdana][/font]

[font=Verdana].[/font]

[font=Verdana]I bought a 5-pack of the clear inkjet water slide decal stock from Papilio.com. (~$15.00 with shipping) I was going to buy from Testor’s but it took them 2 days to answer an email I sent asking them a question. After 1 day, I located the other source. Couldn't wait! Too bad.....I spent a lot of hard earned paper route money with Testor as a kid.[/font]

[font=Verdana]Process was pretty straight forward.[/font]

[font=Verdana]1.[/font][font=Verdana]Prepare your artwork. Blank GE motor artwork below.[/font]

[font=Verdana]2.[/font][font=Verdana]Prepare your metal sheet stock. I used .032” thick brass.[/font]

[font=Verdana]---a.[/font][font=Verdana]Sand the front surface with 1500 grit sandpaper on a mirror or flat surface to make it shine. Double sided tape works well here.[/font]

[font=Verdana]---b.[/font][font=Verdana]Coat the back surface with 3 or 4 light coats of clear lacquer for protection and allow to dry for 8 hours.[/font]

[font=Verdana]3.[/font][font=Verdana]Print your artwork to the correct scale onto the waterslide decal paper and let dry for a couple hours.[/font]

[font=Verdana]4.[/font][font=Verdana]Coat the inkjet image with "fixative" (similar to a clear lacquer) to protect the image when you submerge it in water then let dry for 8-hours.[/font]

[font=Verdana]5.[/font][font=Verdana]So that the decal slides easily on the nameplate once initially applied, spread a very light coating of “decal mounting fluid” on the nameplate surface. This allows you to make fine adjustments sliding the decal into position without it stretching or tearing.[/font]

[font=Verdana]6.[/font][font=Verdana]Put decal paper in warm water to loosen the decal.[/font]

[font=Verdana]7.[/font][font=Verdana]Apply decal to the nameplate.[/font]

[font=Verdana]8.[/font][font=Verdana]Squeegee out all air bubbles, water, and the decal mounting fluid with your finger OR preferable, a small curved plastic squeegee, similar to the one shown toward the bottom of this page.[/font]

[font=Verdana]9.[/font][font=Verdana]Sit back and watch your masterpiece dry for about 2 hours while enjoying a tall glass or two of your favorite beverage.[/font]

GE Motor Artwork below

(right click, save picture as)

motor namplate blank.bmp

motor namplate with decal2mod.jpg

motor namplate with decal mod.jpg

tom_k/mo

Mike, that turned out really nice. Great work.

mickyd

I'm debating what to do or what knot to do with the open nots on my bench boards. There are three of them visible on what will be the top surface. They all look similar to this:

My plans are to use a tung oil / spar urethane finish mix recommended by Nick over at his Workshop Companion website. Color is natural. For those of you that aren't a member of his forum but wood like the recipe for the finish, here is his posting:

My favorite finish for shop furniture is a homemade recipe that lathe-turning-guru Rudy Olsolnik turned me onto years ago. He said take a cup of tung oil finish and mix it with two tablespoons of spar varnish. The tung oil contributes flexible alkyd resins, the spar varnish hard phenols. What you get is a durable finish that penetrates the wood for a good bond and easily moves with the wood as it expands and contracts. These days, I substitute Spar Urethane for spar varnish, but the principle remains the same. I've applied this stuff to shop furniture, jigs, fixtures, and airplanes with good results. I have a drill press table that I've used day in and day out for 15 years and the finish is barely worn.

With all good wishes,

Nick

So, what wood you say you would gurus? Wood you fill the nots or knot fill the nots? If yes, with what?

Len

Aesthetically, I would fill it. It's not symmetrical. It looks "wonky" and after all that you've done I would find some wood filler. I would even consider another board if the other side of this one looks as "funny". I know staining filler material is important. I can be no help there, so all I can wish is the best of luck.

=

beeg

Leave em and use as is.

ddresser

Mike,

I'd fill them with epoxy, but not sure if that is compatible with the finish you want to use.

Duane

tom_k/mo

Personally, I'd leave it as is. The boards are not part of finished cabinetry, and there's nothing in what's shown on the photo that creates a structural defect. It's kind of like the voids and inclusions you find in burl that you turn for a pen. It's character.

dusty

I would leave them as is unless it appears that they might break up and fall out. If that was to happen, I would try to epoxy they for structural reasons. As for appearance, this is a work bench, right.

Len

Can't agree, Dusty. It is a work bench that has taken off and become a work of art.

dusty

Len wroteCan't agree, Dusty. It is a work bench that has taken off and become a work of art.

OKAY I stand corrected then. It really isn't a "work bench".

The next project will obviously be a glass case in which to store this work of art.:rolleyes:

a1gutterman

mickyd wroteI'm debating what to do or what knot to do with the open nots on my bench boards. There are three of them visible on what will be the top surface. They all look similar to this:

.

.

[ATTACH]5909[/ATTACH]

.

.

My plans are to use a tung oil / spar varnish mix recommended by Nick. Color is natural.

So, what say you would gurus? Wood you fill the nots? If yes, with what?

Hi Mike,

Put me on the side of the fence for filling those knots. IMHO, filling them will knot detract from the looks, and I find smooth surfaces a lot better to work with then those with holes in them. As for what to use; you will probably knot be able to successfully hide the filler, so it does knot really matter. My dad made a very nice chest when he was in High School shop, out of pine, and, as is usual with pine, it had some knots in it. I do knot know what he used to fill in those holes in the knots, but it stands out nicely. I am glad they are there. It gives the chest some additional character. :D

tdubnik

I'd probably fill it in with epoxy tinted to a dark brown/black color. You'll end up with a smooth top and it won't detract from the looks.

mbcabinetmaker

With the work of art that is going to reside there I would trade them in on some 8/4 Zebrawood.:) :)

mickyd

I'm reading the opposing posts and I'm bouncing around like a tennis ball on whether or not to fill the knot holes. I am really on the fence on this one. I decided that I'll go with the forum vote. Right now, it's 5 to fill 'em and 3 to leave 'em. I'll wait a few more days before the final tally.

As I thought about tom_k/mo's comment re the "character" of wood, I wondered how old these boards are. I went out and counted the growth rings. There are 45 rings visible when looking at the board end. I'd estimate that there were probably 20 more to get to the center of the tree. Another 20 estimated to get to the outside of the tree. Throw in another 5 years where the tree doesn't even have a trunk yets and it puts it's age at the time hatchet man went out to the forest to about 90 years old. Assuming that these are the original boards that came with the unit in 1955, it puts the trees genealogy at circa 1865, the year our civil war ended and also the year Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. Wow! (I have an active imagination, huh?) And how could ANYONE think I should replace them with new lumber...(jpg40504!!:D )

Anyway, keep the votes rolling in. That will decide my direction. Thanks.

BigEd

Vote from New England says "fill 'em" As is they will collect dust and other spooge which won't look very nice compared to the great job of restoration you did.

Good luck!

Big Ed

mickyd

BigEd wroteVote from New England says "fill 'em" As is they will collect dust and other spooge which won't look very nice compared to the great job of restoration you did.

Good luck!

Big Ed

Foster RI....my old stomping grounds!! Had friends in Foster. Grew up in Putnam, CT a stones throw west on Rt 44.

Sure miss Rocky Point's chowder and fritters, not to mention the entire shore dinner!! Thanks for your vote Big Ed. 6 to 3 on filling

mbcabinetmaker

mickyd wrote Assuming that these are the original boards that came with the unit in 1955, it puts the trees genealogy at circa 1865, the year our civil war ended and also the year Abraham Lincoln was assassinated. Wow! (I have an active imagination, huh?) And how could ANYONE think I should replace them with new lumber...(jpg40504!!:D )

Anyway, keep the votes rolling in. That will decide my direction. Thanks.

I have changed my mind with that history lesson. My vote is to leave them natural.

etc92guy

I vote to fill them. Like Rhode Island said, your knot :rolleyes: going to want to clean the sawdust out that they catch. Clear epoxy would preserve the character or history.

iclark

you can add a Virginian vote for fill them. left open, they are one more place for small parts to hide when dropped.:o

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