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Restoration Progress On My 1952 ER10

osx-addict

I'm only here to help.. :D

etc92guy

You are woodworking.....finishing is part of it. :)

mickyd

etc92guy wrote
You are woodworking.....finishing is part of it. 🙂

Thanks....I needed that!

While we're on the topic of finishing, I wasn't sure if my finish would fill in the small cracks on my boards. Well, it's not. What is the best method to take care of these? Superglue?

mickyd

Wow....1-1/2 hrs have gone by without anyone answering how to fill the cracks.....:(

mickyd

2 hours......sure would like to get out there and fill those cracks.....if..... I knew how.......tick-tock-tick-tock..........

a1gutterman

mickyd wrote2 hours......sure would like to get out there and fill those cracks.....if..... I knew how.......tick-tock-tick-tock..........

Sorry, I do knot have a good answer for you, that is, unless you are going to paint, any filler is going to "show", but many fillers will work...

charlese

Mike, The major issue you will have in crack filling is - you have already applied a finish. Now that you have applied finish, your choice to fill the cracks is pretty well limited to wood putty or epoxy!

Putty is intended to be applied after finishing and is cosmetic only. (filling small nail holes and stuff) The good part is, it comes in colors and different colors can be mixed together to alter the shade. I don't know how to coat over the putty. Don't think you can! It would probably wear off with use.

However you could try some epoxy wood filler. I don't know how it will adhere to the oil finish. The good part of this filler is it's hardness. It will take abuse. (as if you would ever abuse your baby's base). Epoxy comes in a stick form with hardener inside of of the resin (or visa versa). A piece is sliced off and then kneaded to engage the hardener and resin. Gotta wear gloves!!! You can color the epoxy filler with artists oil color. The stuff won't take a stain.

I would suggest the epoxy route, but again, don't know how it would stick!

mickyd

If it matters, I will be appying additional finish over my repair job. I have 5 minute epoxy but it's quite thick. Don't know if it will get down inside the crack as you can see is only 1/32" wide.

a1gutterman

mickyd wroteIf it matters, I will be appying additional finish over my repair job. I have 5 minute epoxy but it's quite thick. Don't know if it will get down inside the crack as you can see is only 1/32" wide.

This productwill probably work well, but it will leave a "white" line in your crack. It will sand smooth and not crumble and you can put your finish on it (I think).

a1gutterman

I was looking more at the Durham's Rock Hard web site and discovered that you can color the putty!!! I have used this product over the years for many things with great success. Have you ever bought a sheet of CDX plywood and the knot holes were filled with a hard putty? This stuff is just like that. It might be that!?!

etc92guy

I would ( or wood ) suggest a test mule.......find another board with the same or approximate condition. Use that to see what treatment is going to work best.

robinson46176

I would probably just keep adding finish... Run it in the crack with something like an ear syringe and squeegee off the excess. Do it several times and sand it flat when dry.

A furniture repairer would probably use stick shellac.

-

You could route them all out and do inlays. :)

-

I have used that Durhams for about 40 years. Great stuff... In some applications you will need to put shellac over it to prevent bleeding or to eliminate texture variations. If painting over it use a product like Kilzs ( I forget the other big product name right now) or some other sealer to prevent bleeding.

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I once mixed up a soupy mix of Durhams and poured it in cheap plastic chess pieces (held upside down) to ballast them. It was a 100% improvement. It has been in them for maybe 35 years.

mickyd

After doing some web research on hairline crack filling (the search wasn't an easy task incidentally), I decided that I am going to try using a product called Titebond wood adhesive. It's advertised for crack / knot filling and has been around for sometime. It comes in a couple different viscosities depending on application. Since I have several hairline cracks on one of the boards, I need the thin viscosity so that it will wick into the very narrow voids. I'll keep you posted.

mickyd

Got set up this morning with all the stuff needed to fill the hairline cracks in my one bench board. A container of sanding dust I kept when I sanded the boards, the Titebond thin adhesive I picked up at Rockler, and a very thin jewelers screwdriver to pack the sawdust into the crack where is opened up a little wider that what you see.

As I got ready to go, it thought of farmers post where he said he'd just keep adding coats. Since I planned on doing that anyway, I decided to put my stuff away and go with that process first. It is the patch of least resistance. If they don't fill with additional coats, I'll go back to plan A.

charlese

You can add layer after layer, after layer of finish coats (varnish, paint, shellac, etc) You will never get a crack filled unless you also sand, or scrape off the most recent coats adjacent to the crack.

When you build thickness that's exactly what you do. Build a mountain and valley higher - you still have a mountain and a valley. Only higher.

Had a Sunday School teacher that taught that lesson as he had us building and smoothing off wooden puppets for a Good Samaritan puppet show. There was a kid who hated sanding and thought he would just paint the pock marks full to smooth them off. He came to the show with a puppet with a fat pock marked face. His puppet played the part of a robber, not the Good Samaritan.

mickyd

charlese wroteYou can add layer after layer, after layer of finish coats (varnish, paint, shellac, etc) You will never get a crack filled unless you also sand, or scrape off the most recent coats adjacent to the crack.

When you build thickness that's exactly what you do. Build a mountain and valley higher - you still have a mountain and a valley. Only higher.

Had a Sunday School teacher that taught that lesson as he had us building and smoothing off wooden puppets for a Good Samaritan puppet show. There was a kid who hated sanding and thought he would just paint the pock marks full to smooth them off. He came to the show with a puppet with a fat pock marked face. His puppet played the part of a robber, not the Good Samaritan.

Well I guess that puts me back to plan A or possibly even no plan at all.:( No biggie one way or the other.

mickyd

Seven coats into finishing my bench boards, I realized I have made an error in Nick's suggested finish recipe of 1 CUP (C) tung oil, 2 TABLESPOONS (T) spar urethane.

I was making my 3rd full batch when my brain started processing the formula. I was thinking, ....2C of tung oil and 4T of spar seems like an aweful lot of finish for only 7 coats!!! Then it hit me. :eek:

I am using the plastic disposable serving containers like the one you see a few posts back (the one with the sawdust in it) to measure out the 2 components. I have two sizes, 4T and 2T. I was using 2 of the larger cups full of tung oil and 1 of the smaller container full of the spar to make each batch. Well, for WHATEVER reason, I was thinking that the 4T container was 4oz. NOT!! 4T = only 2oz. This means the recipe ratio is actually using half the tung oil recommended........or 1/2C tung oil to 2T spar.

It is no longer the "Nick recipe" but instead the "mickyd recipe"!! The bright side is I know that I got good penetration of the finish since it took 5 coats before getting full gloss. It was soaking in up to that point.

The finish looks GREAT so far. I just hope it maintains the great properties Nick discussed. If not, no biggie. Strip and redo. A couple more coats and I'm done.

robinson46176

mickyd wrote A couple more coats and I'm done.

How are the cracks doing?

.

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mickyd

robinson46176 wroteHow are the cracks doing?

They are unchanged. I haven't tried forcing the finish in as you suggested. They are sooooo narrow. Instead, I am going to wait until I've completed the finish coat and see how the thin CA glue works. It's wicking properties supposedly is excellent.

mickyd

When applying finish with a cloth, do you store the cloth in between coats for reuse? I've been storing it in a sealed ziploc with all the air removed and it keeps for about 3 consecutive days usage before I start detecting it stiffing up. This may seem like a "cheap skate" question since I could use a fresh cloth each day but I thought it was worth posting to see what others do. I do only have a certain number of retired cotton t-shirts to use as rags.

I was considering leaving the rag submerged in the finish (not the master container but a transfer container) or just rinsing the cloth clean in mineral spirits after each use.

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