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Yet another "Goldie" Restoration

AllenH

My son got the black parts re-plated for me on the Saw Guard and Miter Gauge.

I cleaned the plastic on the saw guard with Novus polish.

This is the miter gauge I purchased. I still have to do the one that came with the Goldie.

AllenH

I got another batch of accessories cleaned, painted and polished.

chapmanruss

Everything keeps looking better and better.

Before using the Sander/Shaper Fence check to see that the wood fence boards are still straight and flat. I had on old set that had warped a little bit over the years. I ended up buying a new pair to replace them but wondered about running them, while still mounted, through the Jointer to re-flatten them. Taking off a very small fraction at a time. Something I have yet to try. I have that warped set somewhere and if I find them, I'll have to give it a try. I also thought about making a replacement set. I have a Shopsmith so why not. :D

The Mortising Hold Down is a nice accessory but do you have the Mortising Attachment to go with it? For the Goldie era it was painted copper too.

AllenH

chapmanruss wrote Everything keeps looking better and better.

Before using the Sander/Shaper Fence check to see that the wood fence boards are still straight and flat. I had on old set that had warped a little bit over the years. I ended up buying a new pair to replace them but wondered about running them, while still mounted, through the Jointer to re-flatten them. Taking off a very small fraction at a time. Something I have yet to try. I have that warped set somewhere and if I find them, I'll have to give it a try. I also thought about making a replacement set. I have a Shopsmith so why not. :D

The Mortising Hold Down is a nice accessory but do you have the Mortising Attachment to go with it? For the Goldie era it was painted copper too.

They seem straight, but I will have to check them for sure. Unfortunately I didn't get the Mortising Attachment. I have been watching ebay for one.

MichaelCfffg

I just had the same problem getting registered in the forum. It turned out that the activation email got dumped into my spam folder. :rolleyes:

chapmanruss

AllenH,

Other than the color, the Mortising Attachment for the Greenie is the same. Just paint it copper after cleaning. Gray Mortising Attachments are different. Ones made for the Model 10's (1953 and before) have different size set and cap screws while those made after 1964 have the "bare" metal parts with the black protective coating. Just one of those little differences we find for the Shopsmith tools over the years.

AllenH

Whelp, she is done. I got it all aligned this morning and even was able to sharpen the chisels I bought for it. I have a few videos left to edit and I still need to go through the bandsaw and 6" belt sander I purchased. But for all intents and purposes, she is ready to rock and roll.

Thanks for the help from everybody on the forum, couldn't of done it without you.

JPG

Purty ain't she!

GetterDone

Great Job. :)

I will be watching for the Tube video's. :D

AllenH

What is the best label stock to print the warning labels?

chapmanruss

The Restoration looks great. Nicely done.

I printed the Caution Label on clear label self-adhesive sheets. You can see the finished label below.

Goldie Headstock.jpg

AllenH

One more video after this one.

chapmanruss

AllenH,

Thank you for sharing the videos of your progress. I have enjoyed seeing your progress and am happy for you in getting your Goldie restored.

For those who have watched the video for tips and help there are things to know about what was shown. This Goldie has been upgraded in this restoration process. Originally it had a 3/4 HP Motor and the Gilmer Drive. What is shown in the Headstock video is it being upgraded to a 1-1/8 HP Motor and the Poly V Drive with a double bearing Quill. It is a nice upgrade for this Goldie made just prior to the 1-18 HP Motor and the Poly V Drive changes.

Allen probably knows I cringed with every strike of the hammer he used while getting the Drive Sleeve Assembly back into the Headstock. :eek:

He acknowledged that the hammer was not the best choice. Metal to metal striking can "mushroom" the end being struck. The saving thing on the Drive Sleeve Assembly is the beveled end on the spindle. Enough about that.

When the Idler Shaft Assembly was put back into the Headstock, he didn't put the Eccentric in with it. This is fine for the version of the Eccentric he was putting in with the Poly V Drive upgrade. Some versions of the Eccentric have a set screw to hold it on the Idler Shaft Bearing. Those Eccentrics need to be attached to the Bearing prior to the Idler Shaft Assembly being re-inserted in the Headstock. Below is a picture of two of the Eccentric types. The new type is the one used in the upgrade shown in the video. Note the split in the thin wall side of the casting. The other is the type with the set screw. His caution about tightening the cap screw and nut which holds the Idler Shaft Assembly in the Headstock Casting should be followed. DO NOT OVERTIGHTEN. Doing so can break the Headstock casting.

Not shown in the video is when the "V" Belt was put back on the Idler Shaft Assembly. This is done prior to re-installing the Speed Control Assembly and the Loop on the end of the Idler Shaft Assembly is put over the Quadrant (porkchop) of the Speed Control.

eccentric old and new.jpg

JPG

One 'comment'. The quill stop assembly on that vintage goldie did NOT have the flat washer between the serrated,keyed washer and the retaining ring.

So it is/was not 'missing'. :)

AllenH

JPG wrote One 'comment'. The quill stop assembly on that vintage goldie did NOT have the flat washer between the serrated,keyed washer and the retaining ring.

So it is/was not 'missing'. :)

Good, I didn't like it when I have it in there. I will take it out.

JPG

WHAT did you not like about it? Dial spaced out?

AllenH

Another question, what was the purpose of the second slot on the table?

JPG

The main table/aux table has a gap that the rip fence does not adequately register across. The second slot allows ripping at those dimensions that the gap interferes with.

chapmanruss

As JPG said,

The main table/aux table has a gap that the rip fence does not adequately register across. The second slot allows ripping at those dimensions that the gap interferes with.

The extra slot in the Main Table began with the Mark 2 to solve that problem. It was then added to the Mark 5 and continued until 1980. When using a Mark 5/V without the extra slot that gap can easily be overcome by using a face/spacer board on the Rip Fence.

AllenH

Interesting.

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