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Yet another "Goldie" Restoration

HopefulSSer

Just FYI, current practice is to switch only the black (hot) wire and direct-connect the neutral. An accidental benefit of this is that if your switch is DPST, you get a "backup side" of the switch if one side fails. ;-)

AllenH

HopefulSSer wrote Just FYI, current practice is to switch only the black (hot) wire and direct-connect the neutral. An accidental benefit of this is that if your switch is DPST, you get a "backup side" of the switch if one side fails. ;-)

On that switch only the one side seemed to be switched. It failed however, and I have to replace it.

JPG

Sorry you have not received an answer to your start switch question. IF I can locate the 'extra' (maybe emerson) motor I will delve into it. Just be patient.

AllenH

I ran it without the circle and it ran really good, so I don't think it was necessary.

JPG

Had to be in there for some good reason. ???

AllenH

I still have it, if someone finds where it goes.

AllenH

Here is how the headstock turned out. I will post the sound of it running when I get it back on the base.

chapmanruss

It's looking good. The gold color paint is looking better than I imagined it would. Not to yellow like some gold paints. The collection of accessories you received recently will help complete your Shopsmith plus a couple of additional accessories.

BuckeyeDennis

Sweet!

GetterDone

That is Looking Good. :)

I like the touch of the Paint on the handles for Sure.

JPG

I like the addition of washers under the cover retaining screws.

Looking very good imo.

AllenH

JPG wrote I like the addition of washers under the cover retaining screws.

Looking very good imo.

That was part of the stainless steel kit I got. They have a neoprene washer bonded to them.

AllenH

I 3D printed some accessories to go with the Shopsmith. Some of them I just downloaded and a few of them I designed myself.

These I printed to help make Pens.

JPG

Those two on the upper right in the first pix are IMO an accident waiting to happen. Insidious since they are supposed to prevent them.

AllenH

I uploaded a video on the disassembly of the headstock.

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chapmanruss

Allen,

You are making good progress, Seeing the Bench reassembled is showing the paint colors well and a good replacement for the original "gold" color paint.

For others following along for help in their own restorations I provide the following.

I'm not sure what instructions for disassembling a Headstock Allen was following in the video. I did notice some confusion about parts listed in the instructions and what is actually in Allen's Goldie Headstock. There have been changes made through the years to the Headstock. If you notice in the video when removing the Spring on the Motor Shaft the end cap is different than the washer used on the 1-18 HP Motor he shows later that will go back into his Headstock as part of the Poly V upgrade. That is just one example of changes that have been made to the Headstock.

One thing that would make the rest of the disassembly easier would be to remove the Motor and Motor Pan after removing the Motor Shaft Spring and related parts. Don't forget to remove the Switch nut too. Be aware that some Headstocks have a Wire Retaining Clip attached to the back of one of the three screws that attach the Speed Control Assembly to the Headstock Casting. This is to keep the wires away from moving parts inside the Headstock. Look for that clip when removing the Motor Pan before pulling it too far away from the Headstock Casting. With the Motor and Pan off the Headstock Casting it is easier to access the other parts.

When removing the putty that is covering set screws of the Quill for aligning/retaining on top of the Headstock Casting, the Quill's Spindle Knob and the Quill Return Spring Housing I use a dental type pick and scrape out the threads carefully. This generally frees up the set screw for removal. Sometimes they can be stubborn and need additional help as happened to Allen. Normally the putty covering the set screw on top of the Headstock for the Quill is already removed for regular Quill maintenance.

Another change in the order of parts removal I do is remove the Quill prior to removing the Drive Sleeve Assembly. It gives me better access to get the Drive Sleeve Assembly out. The Retaining Ring Allen shows in the video being removed, that holds the Drive Sleeve Assembly in, has an additional one on the other end which can be removed to help get the Drive Sleeve Assembly out of the Headstock Casting.

I also recommend using a wooden, rubber or plastic mallet as opposed to a metal hammer. Metal to metal contact can cause damage. Been there, done that. :eek:

AllenH

I have to agree with all the points you made Russ. I am trying to find where I downloaded the disassembly instructions. When I reassembled it, I used JPG instructions. When I followed them, it went better. LOL

Found the Disassembly instructions I used: http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/SS_Archives/SS122/SS122_Common_files/Blackboard_images/Inspection_and_Cleaning.pdf

JPG

Thank You! However model variations still have to be adjusted to.

GetterDone

I am watching your Video's .

Thanks for sharing your experience.

AllenH

GetterDone wrote I am watching your Video's .

Thanks for sharing your experience.

Thanks, I am glad someone finds them usefull.

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