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Restoration of Mark V / produced on 11/84

GetterDone

Okay next I am going to work on the table.

It's the worst of all the tables I have.

Although it's not That bad.

I Been searching this forum and I have seen before and after pictures of a Member on this forum using CitriStrip. 😃

I have some on the way to start refurbishing this table.

JPG

Dirt Dobbers? :confused:

Keep it indoors! :D

GetterDone

JPG wrote Dirt Dobbers? :confused:

Keep it indoors! :D

Almost every one I have purchased had a Dirt dobber nest somewhere on the machine.

One of them had a mouse nest in the bandsaw above the lower wheel.

GetterDone

As a few other members have done.

I made some PVC tubes to soak the way and support tubes in Evaporust.

I bought two 10' sticks of the PVC

It was enough to make 4 tubes and the 2 short pieces I capped off for the drip dry of the Evaporust when I remove them from the tubes.

I made my tubes 55" long.

I bought these caps at my local plumbing supply place.

I marked the tubes so I would know which one was which.

I plan to put the way tubes in the lathe and straight them.

I set the on the granite table at work and they are bent ever so slightly

GetterDone

I am experimenting with my Ultrasonic cleaner.

With 20 minutes and Pine sol

These are the results.

chapmanruss

You never know what might be living inside a Shopsmith tool that has been stored for a time. Below is the Headstock from one of the Model 10ER's I have restored.

R57376 HS int pre.jpg

I was glad that "squatter" was gone when I bought this "barn" find.

I see you have started taking the Retractable Caster sets apart. Putting them back together is not as easy as putting a part back in place where one of the same parts was originally located. Below is a link to Yet another "Goldie" Restoration and beginning on page 9 and continuing on page 10 is a discussion on disassembling and reassembling the Retractable Casters.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=35396&start=80

The Retractable Castor sets have (when mounted on the legs) a right and a left set. The one is a mirror image of the other. What makes up each side is a Right-side Bracket and a Left-side Bracket. The Tie Rod keeps them together along with being mounted to the Bench Assembly. The holes drilled for the Roll Pins may be drilled slightly off from one to another. The same is true for Roll Pins that hold the Cams and Foot Pedal to the Drive Rod. Reassembling these parts in different positions than they were originally can have the assembled Retractable Caster Assembly out of alignment. The Plungers, Springs, Retaining Clips, Castors and mounting hardware are not position specific.

GetterDone

Thanks for the Link I will check it out. :)

I have done a lot of Reading on this forum. :D

There was one Thread that suggested to put center puch marks on them.

So that what I done and I keep the 2 sides seperated.

I will be looking at that thread for a Refresher course for sure. ;)

JPG

There was one Thread that suggested to put center puch marks on them.

So that what I done and I keep the 2 sides seperated.

Very good move(s)!!!

GetterDone

JPG wrote There was one Thread that suggested to put center punch marks on them.

So that what I done, and I keep the 2 sides separated.

Very good move(s)!!!

I have got a Lot of good info from you and Russ and several others here. :D

GetterDone

Okay I jumped in with the Orange Strip stuff.

Citrus strip//That Orange stuff. 😃

It worked pretty well.

Before disassembly picture

What are these 2 Bolts Circled for?

They had a gap and was just somewhat tight.

Before picture for / Me / Everyone. 😉

I know I need to read to Manual in More Detail :rolleyes:

What are these dovetail grooves for below this Knob?

attachment=5]sst3.jpg[/attachment]

This is reminder for (Me) the position of this bracket.

Working on it. 🙂

Then Here We Go. 😃

First cleaning .

Comparison with plate that was not cleaned. :cool:

JPG

Those two bolts are the stops for the 'drill press table position'.(90°)

Re the trunion pivot thingie, a more important detail is bump away from table. up/down can be misleading here.

The dovetail is for the blade guard to mount.

When I used Citrustrip to clean alum table, after scrubbing with the orange stuff(turns it gray) I let it dry and then used dried powder to buff if slightly..

GetterDone

JPG wrote Those two bolts are the stops for the 'drill press table position'.(90°)

Re the trunion pivot thingie, a more important detail is bump away from table. up/down can be misleading here.

The dovetail is for the blade guard to mount.

When I used Citrustrip to clean alum table, after scrubbing with the orange stuff(turns it gray) I let it dry and then used dried powder to buff if slightly..

Great info. :D

Thanks JPG

HopefulSSer

The bolts are the stops for the table when using in drill press mode. Adjust them to make the table perpendicular to the quill. The dovetail slots are where the upper saw guard attaches

Real1shepperd

In answer to an earlier question on USC's.....most all units unless you spend the big bucks, come from China. I bought a bigger one with all the bells and whistles. What they don't tell you is that the majority of them are made for JEWLERY. What that translates to is if you put something metal inside with a large mass....like a 4barrel carb, you can cause the transducers to short out from overload. Even to the point of smoke & fire. My machine has six transducers and I had this exact scenario happen.

I got a notice from eBay that the unit I bought should be sent back to the vendor because they could start a fire. When I looked into this, there were other brands with the same issue. I kept mine and I watch very carefully the size of the metal mass I put into the bin. Just a caveat.

The company was dodgy of course....asking me to send them the notice that eBay had sent me like they were unaware of the problem. But eBay was right on top of this and returned my money while the vendor was still arguing/stalling. Eventually, the vendor sent me a notice to dispose of my machine. Cheapskate that I am, I just make sure I'm present when the machine is running if there are any issues with 'smoke' again.

Kevin

AllenH

GetterDone wrote Almost finished with this bandsaw update that will go with this Mark V.

I got a Plug ordered for the access hole / My idea is a MacMaster plug :cool: .

I will drill the hole once I get the plug I ordered in hand.

ssbs5.jpg

I plan on doing that also, Would you be ably to share any measurements for location?

GetterDone

AllenH wrote
GetterDone wrote Almost finished with this bandsaw update that will go with this Mark V.

I got a Plug ordered for the access hole / My idea is a MacMaster plug :cool: .

I will drill the hole once I get the plug I ordered in hand.

ssbs5.jpg
I plan on doing that also, Would you be ably to share any measurements for location?

I have pictures I can post when I get home.

From the Cover stud below the window ,

The bottom of the window to the center of the stud is 4 inches and top of the widow is 7".

I slowly filed my way to the measurement. :D

chapmanruss

The mounting block with the dovetail grooves you asked about earlier is for the following Saw Blade Guard set. The block is where the Upper Saw Guard attaches. There were two versions with the first having a single 1-1/4" port and the second having two 2-1/2" ports. There was an upgrade kit to change the first version to the second.

Below is version one.

505875 V1 500 Saw Blade Guard Assembly 1980s r.jpg

Below is version two.

505875 V2 500 Saw Blade Guard Assembly.jpg

The following picture shows the upgrade parts that change version one to version two.

555294 - 505875 lower sawguard upgrade.jpg

This Saw Blade Guard set replaced earlier Saw Blade Guards and was the last one made for the original AKA 500 Table system.

GetterDone

chapmanruss wrote The mounting block with the dovetail grooves you asked about earlier is for the following Saw Blade Guard set. The block is where the Upper Saw Guard attaches. There were two versions with the first having a single 1-1/4" port and the second having two 2-1/2" ports. There was an upgrade kit to change the first version to the second.

Below is version one.

_

505875 V1 500 Saw Blade Guard Assembly 1980s r.jpg

.

Below is version two.

_

505875 V2 500 Saw Blade Guard Assembly.jpg

.

The following picture shows the upgrade parts that change version one to version two.

_

555294 - 505875 lower sawguard upgrade.jpg

.

This Saw Blade Guard set replaced earlier Saw Blade Guards and was the last one made for the original AKA 500 Table system.

I have plenty of saw guards. :D

I may have Overlooked or just do not have the other Dovetail piece that goes on the guard itself.

Thanks for the pictures. :)

I was wondering what that big guard was I have at least one of those. ;)

GetterDone

HopefulSSer wrote The bolts are the stops for the table when using in drill press mode. Adjust them to make the table perpendicular to the quill. The dovetail slots are where the upper saw guard attaches

Thanks.

I will have to see if the quill indicator I use at work.

Will fit this Quill.

Thanks again.

GetterDone

AllenH wrote
GetterDone wrote
Almost finished with this bandsaw update that will go with this Mark V.

I got a Plug ordered for the access hole / My idea is a MacMaster plug :cool: .

I will drill the hole once I get the plug I ordered in hand.

ssbs5.jpg

I plan on doing that also, Would you be able to share any measurements for location?

Okay here are pictures and what I plan to change on the other 3 I have. :rolleyes: 🙂

I like it right about 4" from the stud below this window in the picture.

You can see everything.

Depending on how tall or short 🙂 a person is it could be adjusted a 1/4 " or so.

Here is the stud I am Referring to.

This one after a 2nd Look is 3.9".

Sorry (Not) That's the machinist in me coming out. :rolleyes:

I focus on keeping this one off the step up to the left side as you are looking at it.

I made it about 5/16" off the radius of the outside of the cover.

I done this 5/16" both top and bottom of the cover.

Here is my thing I noticed.

I keep the measurements the same on the outside and they are different on the inside.

This is just me being picky. :rolleyes:

Main thing I learned from this Project IS,

There needs to be relief filed in where the tabs are.

This cover is thicker than the clip relief distance.

I just took a File and a pocketknife to make it snap in.

Main thing I done is cut the hole small and test it for sight and fit as you go. 🙂

Just so it Clear , 🙂 I did order this From SS website.

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