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The dance with Lady Green begins ...

fiatben

heathicus wroteOuch. Yeah, that's a problem.

I'm sure there's a better way, but I think the first thing I would try is using a threaded coupler and another threaded rod for leverage and see if I could bend it back.

Thanks, Heath. That worked like a charm. It takes a standard 3/8" rod coupling. That, with a deep well socket over it and an extension gave me the leverage to bend it back straight by hand. It's all apart and clean. The only thing left now is to citrustrip the underside up in the recesses where I couldn't get a wire wheel.

fiatben

I'm thinking a bit down the road, but at some point I have to paint all these parts. I'm sure this has been covered a 100 times, in detail, but I can't find a quick way to dig thru the 1000s of threads to find it.

Can someone point me the way, or give a quick list on best approach to painting my machine? Also, what do you guys think about powder coating? I saw a place nearby that does it, but have no idea about the costs or durability.

Thanks!!!

mikelst

I will admit to knowing next to nothing about power coating.

That being said....

I have found it to be effective to take the parts I've cleaned and Prime them with gray rustolium primer.

Then after the primer has dried I coat them with the appropriate color of paint I want for the finish.

I take my time, get a smooth finish. Several light coats give a more complete coverage and smoother finish than one heavy coat.

After I have a good smooth finish I let it dry for several days, If it is summertime in Texas I frequently take it outside and let it bake in the sun for a while. Just my opinion but I think it helps.

Then finally I apply a few coats of a good car wax to all the painted surfaces. I figure if it is good for the car protects the finish it will do the same on the SHOPSMITH.

So far from what I've seen it is standing up well but I don't have any long term experiance. The oldest paint job I've done is still less than a year old.

Good luck

JPG

I would think powder coating would be a good idea! The concerns I would have are that the thickness of it may create interferences.

I am very interested in what the cost may be!

Color selection is another unknown.

cml

I'm getting my base frame powder coated as I type. It's expensive, mostly due to the prep involved. I'll let you know how it works out.

fiatben

Is it possible to press on the quill bearing (single bearing quill) myself or do I need to find someone with a hydraulic press to do this for me? How easy is it to screw this up if I "try this at home?"

nuhobby

Somewhere on this Forum I saw a picture of a quill bearing being pressed onto the shaft with a ~5/8" open-end wrench and a mallet or light hammer.

This may be putting the cart ahead of the horse, but you can also lathe-turn & drill old maple rolling-pins into proper-diameter aid-tools for pressing bearings. The wood has some resilience, so the hammer-strikes don't hurt the bearing. If your custom tool presses against the bearing's inner and outer diameters equally, you avoid stressing the internals of the bearings.

Also, don't forget to use your Freezer... the inner assembly part (e.g., shaft) can be chilled and the outer assembly part (e.g., bearing) can be kept warm, to make them easier to slide over each other.

billmayo

fiatben wroteIs it possible to press on the quill bearing (single bearing quill) myself or do I need to find someone with a hydraulic press to do this for me? How easy is it to screw this up if I "try this at home?"

I do not recommend a hydraulic press to install bearings as it is very easy to tilt/cock the bearing and destroy the shaft. I find using a wrench and hammer can cause the same problem.

I have accumulated many different ID sizes and lengths of pipes (use a pipe cutter to cut the pipe so you have a square end) (used deep well sockets for years) and use the one that is snug on the shaft to tap the bearing on the shaft. The thing to remember is to apply no pressure on the balls, like placing a deep well socket on the outter race while installing the bearing on a shaft. No bearing should require excessive presure or force to install. Check the shaft/housing to insure no rust, nicks or scratches where the bearing will seat/rest. LocTite makes a bearing compound just for installing bearings if the fit is not tight.

fiatben

billmayo wrote The thing to remember is to apply no pressure on the balls,

Yeah, I can see where that is kinda critical (snicker, snicker)

But seriously folks, good ideas and I have both deep sockets and a functioning Carba-tec mini-lathe if I want to make my own custom bearing press tool.

I really like doing anything like this with my own stuff and making things to get the job done. Just got done making a 4-wheel steerable dolly for my transmission from 4 castors I had hanging on the wall and 4 scrap 2x4s. If it works out really well, I'll think about going back and making a "purty" one out of some nice wood.

Is this the same case for the other bearings on the drive? The current bearings are actually in very good shape, even if they have rubber seals instead of metal shields. Now that I know how easy it is to dismantle, I'm thinking of just reusing those and dealing with them if they ever become a problem.

mickyd

billmayo wroteI do not recommend a hydraulic press to install bearings as it is very easy to tilt/cock the bearing and destroy the shaft. I find using a wrench and hammer can cause the same problem.

.........

OK.....so I'm a rebel.

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=47789&postcount=206

Even though it's a hammer, there was feel, caution, and TLC used here. This was my ER10 quill bearing replacement.

wlhayesmfs

Mickyd, someone had to be the rebel and stop out of the box. Might as well be you. How else can we see what we should not do if someone doesn't show us the wrong way first. You just put yours on picture and the web and someone saw it. I didn't take pictures of me hitting a wrench with a hammer LOL but love you work and skills.

fiatben

Anyone got pictures of how they jigged up to press on (or hammer) bearings on their quill and drive?

Also, how difficult is it to replace the two bearings in the motor?

I can't find any oiling holes on the drive or motor sheave assemblies on my old '55. Is there a fix for this?

hobbydad

fiatben wroteAnyone got pictures of how they jigged up to press on (or hammer) bearings on their quill and drive?

I don't have any pictures of this, but maybe I can explain. I use a set of deep well sockets and find the one that will just fit over the shaft. Make sure that it is contacting only the inner race of the bearing. I just replaced the bearings on my jointer's cutterhead, and a piece of 1/2" id pipe did the trick. A piece of 5/8' id pipe may work well for the quill.

--Loren

nuhobby

fiatben wrote
Anyone got pictures of how they jigged up to press on (or hammer) bearings on their quill and drive?

Also, how difficult is it to replace the two bearings in the motor?

I can't find any oiling holes on the drive or motor sheave assemblies on my old '55. Is there a fix for this?

First I will greatly recommend the puller-set which Harbor Freight sells, and which has been recommended by mickyd, bill mayo, etc. It can be configured quite a number of ways -- you may want to check out mickyd's full restoration profiles which are linked in his user-profile. This is a super way to get bearings on and off.

Puller Set.jpg

Note, as instructed, I have never removed the label.

There will occasionally be unwieldy situations where some simpler "pushers" like the sockets mentioned above work well. For myself I lately used a few pieces of wood:

My Custom Tools.jpg

The turned roller-pins were sized for the Drive Sleeve Bearings as well as smaller bearings such as quill-shaft or motor shaft. The square piece of wood happened to be just right for getting a quill-bearing into the hollow quill.

Motor bearings are similar to any other, but you've got a few pieces to keep track of as you disassemble the motor. This forum recommended scribing the motor's end-caps to "index" them to the motor-case, so you can get it all back together without struggling so much with long blind retaining screws.

Good luck!

mmorris

fiatben wroteAmongst this lengthy thread I have posed a couple of questions for which I now need answers because it is what is next.

1. In Drew's video he uses a board to depress the cap over the spring on the motor's shaft to pull the sheaves. I do not have a cap. Is there a relatively easy way to do this?

2. To what extent can I rebuild my quill myself. I know I can pull the old pulley, but will it require a press to put the new one back on? And, can an old single bearing quill be retrofitted with a second bearing? Mine is a solid one piece shaft.

That's all I can think of off the top of my head. I'm sure I'll remember something else as soon as I leave here.

Thanks guys.

To remove the motor spring (mine has the nut and washer on it), I used a board with the appropriate sized hole in it and depressed it with two quick clamps to free up my hands.

fiatben

I've cleaned up the quadrant, filed the teeth, and replaced the pin with a small bolt. It works smoothly and I think it will be much improved when it goes back in, but I have a really simply question (because i forgot to take a picture while taking it apart)....

292284 194.JPG

Is the sequence here to put the cone (spring) washer first, then the flat, or the reverse? And does the cone washer go cone in or cone out?

A second question: with both washers on, I can't get enough compression to get the snap ring down into the groove I am sure it is meant to ride in. What's the trick to this?

nuhobby

Hi,

I can't remember much about the only time I took one of these apart. However, the following parts-list link can be zoomed-in pretty close; this might help:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/productmanuals/MKVSTDPartsList%20_1_14.pdf

Good luck!

fiatben

Now, why didn't I think of that? I even have this darn section printed out and in a 3-ring binder I've been putting together in lieu of the missing manual.

Thanks!!! Now I know.

dusty

fiatben wroteI've cleaned up the quadrant, filed the teeth, and replaced the pin with a small bolt. It works smoothly and I think it will be much improved when it goes back in, but I have a really simply question (because i forgot to take a picture while taking it apart)....

[ATTACH]8806[/ATTACH]

Is the sequence here to put the cone (spring) washer first, then the flat, or the reverse? And does the cone washer go cone in or cone out?

A second question: with both washers on, I can't get enough compression to get the snap ring down into the groove I am sure it is meant to ride in. What's the trick to this?

Exchange the position of the two washers. The spring washer goes between the flat washer and the retaining clip.

mickyd

dusty wroteExchange the position of the two washers. The spring washer goes between the flat washer and the retaining clip.

:confused: The exploded view shows spring washer (90) first, then flat washer (91), and finally the external retaining rings (92).

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