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The dance with Lady Green begins ...

JPG

mickyd wrote:confused: The exploded view shows spring washer (90) first, then flat washer (91), and finally the external retaining rings (92).

Flat washers wear better than spring washers(that is why there is one there!). However the presence of the spring washer makes it difficult to install the clip. Ya gotta depress the washer pair to get the clip into the groove.

fiatben

As I'm back into taking this old Greenie apart, I find little mysteries (to me anyway), like this .....

Headrest 01.JPG

What is the purpose of the setscrew (part 504153) on the righthand "leg" as seen from this side?

fiatben

I'd really like to do a good job of refurbishing this '55 Greenie. I can see that the arm pivots on an pinned rod in the base. I don't see a second hole to drive it out thru. Is there an easy way to remove this pin so I can clean the rod and strip/prime/paint the base and arm?

Base and Arm 01.JPG

JPG

fiatben wroteI'd really like to do a good job of refurbishing this '55 Greenie. I can see that the arm pivots on an pinned rod in the base. I don't see a second hole to drive it out thru. Is there an easy way to remove this pin so I can clean the rod and strip/prime/paint the base and arm?

[ATTACH]8825[/ATTACH]

There should be a hole in the casting on the other side of the shaft so that you can drive the pin through from the outside.

JPG

fiatben wroteAs I'm back into taking this old Greenie apart, I find little mysteries (to me anyway), like this .....

[ATTACH]8823[/ATTACH]

What is the purpose of the setscrew (part 504153) on the righthand "leg" as seen from this side?

That screw allows adjusting the tie bar /way tubes so that they are not twisted. It is an adjustable stop! Not easy to remove, but do so!

dusty

dusty wroteExchange the position of the two washers. The spring washer goes between the flat washer and the retaining clip.

As has been pointed out by JPG, this statement is in error. Please disregard my input and do as JPG has stated in the subsequent post.

I'm going out to make sawdust. Not that I don't make mistakes there, too but out there I just correct them or incorporate the results into the design and no one is the wiser. At least I don't achieve public recognition.:rolleyes:

I came in from the shop because it was getting too hot (92°) but then it is uncomfortably warm in here too.

wlhayesmfs

Dusty, don't worry about it. Here is OK it is having a cold snap and in in the upper 50's and north wind. Great time for Broken Arrow to have their Fair LOL

I did make a mistake once but my wife reminded me I was wrong on the number :D

JPG

dusty wroteAs has been pointed out by JPG, this statement is in error. . . .

Do NOT blame ME!!!!:eek: It was MICKYD!!!!!:D I merely commented on getting the ring back in the groove!!!;)

Pax!

He who makes no 'errors' makes little 'progress' and takes no path untraveled(or has a very poor memory).

mickyd

fiatben wroteAs I'm back into taking this old Greenie apart, I find little mysteries (to me anyway), like this .....

[ATTACH]8823[/ATTACH]

What is the purpose of the setscrew (part 504153) on the righthand "leg" as seen from this side?

Here's what the setscrew adjusted for me. (posts 327 thru 330)

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=39973#post39973

dusty

mickyd wroteHere's what the setscrew adjusted for me. (posts 327 thru 330)

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?p=39973#post39973

I am having a hard time with this. It has been stated by several different folks.

What I do not understand is how vertical pressure by the set screw results in a lateral motion of the way tube tie bar which is what I see depicted in your photos Mike. The hubs highlight the motion but they move as a function of the way tubes.

The setscrew on my machine does not even touch the tie bar.

heathicus

dusty wroteThe setscrew on my machine does not even touch the tie bar.

If you were to loosen the set screws on the tie bar, would it then touch? And if so, what would that do to the rest of the alignment?

dusty

heathicus wroteIf you were to loosen the set screws on the tie bar, would it then touch? And if so, what would that do to the rest of the alignment?

No. The setscrew is directly below the tie bar with about a 1/4" gap.

I have previously attempted to utilize the set screw (after some Sawdust Session I think) but it never worked for me and I dropped it. Mike's pictures very clearly show that the screw for some reason does something. I just don't understand how.:confused:

I don't want to check out of this world with this sort of unanswered question bugging me. So simple and yet so hard.:(

heathicus

dusty wrote
Heathicus wrote
If you were to loosen the set screws on the tie bar, would it then touch?

No. The setscrew is directly below the tie bar with about a 1/4" gap.

Interesting. I don't really understand why that happens. Do you also have the headstock and carriage locks free? With those locks and the tie bar loose, I don't understand how the tube wouldn't touch the set screw on the headrest.

dusty wrote
I have previously attempted to utilize the set screw (after some Sawdust Session I think) but it never worked for me and I dropped it. Mike's pictures very clearly show that the screw for some reason does something. I just don't understand how.:confused:

I don't want to check out of this world with this sort of unanswered question bugging me. So simple and yet so hard.🙁

I can't explain it either. :confused:

EDIT: Ok, I think I can explain it. The set screw adjusts the "twist" of the tubes, with the axis being the other tube. I hope the graphic below explains what I am suggesting. It's not entirely accurate, obviously. For one thing you have a second pivot point at the other end of the machine.

And with the tie bar loose, and the headstock and carriage locks loose, both tubes should touch the head rest. If the tube over the set screw still does not touch... then I have no explanation for that.

Of course, I could also have all of this completely wrong...

fiatben

I did try to search this out in the forum, but came up with no conclusion. I did see a post by farmer about the 2nd bearing being a response to competitive pressure and possibly overkill on accuracy (after all, the wood itself in anything we make "moves"), and thought it was a very good comment (because I agreed with it!).

But, I'm going to bite the bullet, put on my flame-proof overalls and ask....

Is it possible to upgrade an OLD Mark V (this one is a '55) to the double bearing quill by simply replacing;

the quill (obviously)

the drive assembly - to get 14-spline, poly-v

the idler assembly - to match the drive

new poly-V belt (again, obviously)

Or, are there dimensional variations between a Gilmer and a poly-v that I have not read about?

As an update, I did turn a couple of cylinders with holes for bearing presses and have replaced the bearing on my quill and re-installed the bearing on the drive. So now I'm priming parts and getting close to reassembly.

beeg

YES you can upgrade the gilmer belt to a poly-v belt. BUT it will COST ya plenty. So keep the gilmer system.

fiatben

beeg wroteYES you can upgrade the gilmer belt to a poly-v belt. BUT it will COST ya plenty. So keep the gilmer system.

Oh, I'm perfectly happy with the Gilmer drive, but I was just pondering if I could pick up all the parts cheap enough on evil-bay to warrant the "upgrade", if indeed it is any kind of upgrade. Has anyone seriously looked into this Gilmer vs. poly-v thing? I don't actually see my woodworking ever needing to be micro-fine.

beeg

The upgrade was about $600.00. The 2 bearing quill upgrade is for the poly-v systems.

JPG

heathicus wroteInteresting. I don't really understand why that happens. Do you also have the headstock and carriage locks free? With those locks and the tie bar loose, I don't understand how the tube wouldn't touch the set screw on the headrest.

I can't explain it either. :confused:

EDIT: Ok, I think I can explain it. The set screw adjusts the "twist" of the tubes, with the axis being the other tube. I hope the graphic below explains what I am suggesting. It's not entirely accurate, obviously. For one thing you have a second pivot point at the other end of the machine.

[ATTACH]8828[/ATTACH]

And with the tie bar loose, and the headstock and carriage locks loose, both tubes should touch the head rest. If the tube over the set screw still does not touch... then I have no explanation for that.

Of course, I could also have all of this completely wrong...

More on this subject!

https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=3823

As Mickyd found out, it can also compensate for mis alignment of an spt to the aux shaft(which may vary depending on eccentric[elt tension] adjustment).

The new off set mounting tubes allow adjusting spt independently from the tube/twist stop screw.

Dusty: Your frame must be twisted(tubes not parallel). I am referring to all four being parallel. The legs will compensate for any floor unevenness etc. Use that wixey to check them! Two planes!(end to end, front to rear)

mickyd

dusty wroteNo. The setscrew is directly below the tie bar with about a 1/4" gap.

I have previously attempted to utilize the set screw (after some Sawdust Session I think) but it never worked for me and I dropped it. Mike's pictures very clearly show that the screw for some reason does something. I just don't understand how.:confused:

I don't want to check out of this world with this sort of unanswered question bugging me. So simple and yet so hard.:(

Heath's great graphic in post 93 shows why the set screw works. Apply the graphic to the headstock vs. the tailstock as shown and you can see that what it does is applies a twist of the way tubes relative to the bench tubes thus aligning the rear drive shaft of the headstock to an STP mounted in the tailstock. Great pictorial Heath.

fiatben

Thanks JPG for searching this out for us. It certainly was not making much sense to me until your last post. Now I have one more item to add to my list for realignment after reassembly. And I can see now where this could be very important for lathe operations using the tailstock, which is one of the primary functions for which I intend to use my Lady Green.

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