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The dance with Lady Green begins ...

fiatben

The best advice I can give is to not be afraid to ask for advice on this forum. Spend some time acquainting yourself with the inner workings of the machine by watching the Sawdust Session and reading some threads where others have completely restored machines most would have given up on.

Here is a good starting point: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=7092

Take lots of pictures and share your journey with us. We all love to watch a guy take one apart, discover what its history has done to it, repair the damages and wear, and then bring it back to life. Besides, pictures you can post of the problems and things you don't understand will help all of us to better help you get your machine back to as good as new, or better!

I just recently got my 2nd Shopsmith for 1/5th of what this one cost me, and it is 34 years younger!! That is another thread: https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=7516

Can't wait to see what you've got and what you do with it.

robodad

I have an A-headstock greenie from my dad. I use it infrequently but when it kept tripping the breaker, and after cruising this forum, I decided I needed to lubricate. The motor and belts were replaced about 10 years ago.

In drill press position.

Motor dropped.

Control sheave removed(and drive belt). Belts in decent shape.

No lubrication holes except on floating sheave(as expected).

Not a lot of sawdust inside. Overall things look pretty good except porkchop which is not the subject of this thread.

Poly V-belt (or Gilmer) in place.

After I finished lubrication (I am still in drill press position) I manually turned the main spindle shaft clockwise and it is smooth.

However, counter clockwise it binds. I know that this is a forbidden movement when the drive belt is in place and would cause binding. But what does counter clockwise binding indicate with drive belt disengaged ?

I can't seem to find a forum answer.

Hope its not the bearings!

Thanks to forum members for taking time to share.

I hope I am in the correct thread!

holsgo

Well, you certainly are in a greenie thread but you are buried a bit here. Does the motor run? Have you actually run the machine? Binding a bit...how much binding and what does it feel like.

billmayo

robodad wroteI have an A-headstock greenie from my dad. I use it infrequently but when it kept tripping the breaker, and after cruising this forum, I decided I needed to lubricate. The motor and belts were replaced about 10 years ago.

In drill press position.

Motor dropped.

Control sheave removed(and drive belt). Belts in decent shape.

No lubrication holes except on floating sheave(as expected).

Not a lot of sawdust inside. Overall things look pretty good except porkchop which is not the subject of this thread.

Poly V-belt (or Gilmer) in place.

After I finished lubrication (I am still in drill press position) I manually turned the main spindle shaft clockwise and it is smooth.

However, counter clockwise it binds. I know that this is a forbidden movement when the drive belt is in place and would cause binding. But what does counter clockwise binding indicate with drive belt disengaged ?

I can't seem to find a forum answer.

Hope its not the bearings!

Thanks to forum members for taking time to share.

I hope I am in the correct thread!

There should not be any difference in which direction you rotate the quill. Check if the Gilmer belt is trying to ride up on the Drive Sleeve Gilmer clutch pulley hub. The Gilmer belt will come closer to or try to get up on the hub when rotated backward. Look closely as you rotate the quill to see if anything moves. Make sure the Control Sheave is not rubbing or hitting the Speed Control Assembly arm, should have some clearance. Might need a mirror and light for this. Normally not a bearing problem.

lightnin

fiatben wroteI'm looking at all this aluminum from which most of the paint flecked off during the dark ages, and looking at how bright and shiny the handle are after just a couple of minutes with a wire wheel in a drill, and I'm wondering why I should repaint the aluminum if I'm not into a full-blown restoration as much as bringing the machine up to as-new performance and then trying to wear it out all over again?

Any comments?

Tonight I was polishing aluminum parts in anticipation of assembling my PowerPro when it arrives and had the notion one could buff a headstock to a bright shiny finish and clear coat it.

That would be a lot of work and much would have to be done with a Dremel tool but wow would it look good. I'll pass on it...... to lazy

JPG

lightnin wroteTonight I was polishing aluminum parts in anticipation of assembling my PowerPro when it arrives and had the notion one could buff a headstock to a bright shiny finish and clear coat it.

That would be a lot of work and much would have to be done with a Dremel tool but wow would it look good. I'll pass on it...... to lazy

Interesting! I be considering a similar thing for an "A" headstock,but without the polishing part(leaves casting flaws and grinds as is) for my PP intended. The natural aluminum is IMHO pretty by itself. Amazing even after a half century of hiding under the original paint.

lightnin

Any naked aluminum that I don't want to oxidize I usually spray with

DupliColor Clear coat from the auto parts store, it steals a bit of the luster

but in the long term looks better.

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