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Newowner Informaton

Ash1562

Thank you sir! I'll give that a try and keep you posted.

Ash1562

It's amazing how much quieter and smoother she sounds after being all oiled up! I love this tool

everettdavis

Looking forward to hear of your progress with projects.

You’ve found a home here.

Everett

Ash1562

In the last few weeks, I've been tooling around and finally have learned my way around the Mark VII. I got a new blade, which cuts like a hot knife in butter. The speed control issues have gone away except for the higher end - if I want to route at 3500rpm, the dial will run away and jam the belt inside the shieves and I can't dial it back down. I then have to open the back cover, un-jam the belt and hand-wind it back down. I think I'm going to start using some external catch to prevent this from happening. Otherwise - it's everything I'd imagine and more!

JPG

Sounds like a narrow belt/high speed stop/idler shaft positioning problem.

Ash1562

Could it be that the belt has worn thin from use? I've checked and made sure all other hardware is as it should be, according to Everettes diagrams.

JPG

Ash1562 wroteCould it be that the belt has worn thin from use? I've checked and made sure all other hardware is as it should be, according to Everettes diagrams.

If an original belt fer sure. Check to see if it is less than 1/2" across the outer/widest edge.

Ash1562

So I finally did this...and yup, it's 1/2" wide all through the circumference of the belt...could it be the two round detente pins that aren't pushing back on the dial?

JPG

Ash1562 wroteSo I finally did this...and yup, it's 1/2" wide all through the circumference of the belt...could it be the two round detente pins that aren't pushing back on the dial?

When new the belts were slightly wider than 1/2". Weak detent pin springs, fer sure. Also slop of the knob/dial and the shaft.

DGear74

Maintenance, speed control, headstock

Bought a used mark v, 1979 was the year or manufacture I believe. I was trying to clean up the inside of the headstock and fix a sticky speed control and took the speed control off...not according to the instructions (this was before I realized the wealth of information out there about the machines). The speed control doesn’t turn easily, I had to really crank on it to turn. It shouldn’t be like that right? Should I replace that part?

Should I go ahead and take apart the whole headstock to clean and lubricate? The machine was kept outside and only turned on three times by the guy I bought it from. It runs, but flipped breakers a couple times. Thanks for the help.

JPG

DGear74 wroteMaintenance, speed control, headstock

Bought a used mark v, 1979 was the year or manufacture I believe. I was trying to clean up the inside of the headstock and fix a sticky speed control and took the speed control off...not according to the instructions (this was before I realized the wealth of information out there about the machines). The speed control doesn’t turn easily, I had to really crank on it to turn. It shouldn’t be like that right? Should I replace that part?

Should I go ahead and take apart the whole headstock to clean and lubricate? The machine was kept outside and only turned on three times by the guy I bought it from. It runs, but flipped breakers a couple times. Thanks for the help.

YEP!!!!

After cleaning,

#10 machine oil.

Powdered graphite.

beeg

First off don't turn the speed dial unless the spindle is turning. Go slow from fast to slow. You also may need this.

how to do a high speed adjustment.PDF

everettdavis

Yes in addition to the file Bob provided you might benefit from reading an expanded version of the process with photos that was assembled from work and posts from our late friend and my mentor, Bill Mayo.

Goto https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=185690#p185690

Scroll down the page, find and download file using the link "Bill Mayo - Mark V Headstock Improvement - Repair Kit for Speed Control and Eccentric Bushing v1.01 13 Jun 2016.pdf"

You reference the wealth of information out there.... Have you seen Jacob Anderson's free YouTube videos? If not, you may find some help there.

https://jacobshopsmithrepair.com/youtube-videos/

He has 39 of them and counting.

Here's some of those titles that I think you might like to review:

How things should look

Solving speed control problems stuck sheaves

Headstock teardown Part 1

Headstock teardown Part 2

Headstock teardown Part 3

Headstock teardown Part 4

Speed control components

Setting the speed control

Take and post pictures when you can. We love photos here. To learn how to post pictures in the forum see: https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=224932#p224932

Kindest Regards,

Everett

DGear74

Thanks for the info Gents!

Got it broken down and cleaned by following the Jacob Anderson videos. I ended up replacing the quill bearing, drive gear bearings, drive sheave and bearing, worm gear, quadrant. I put paste wax on the metal parts after I cleaned them.

Last thing I have to do is put the speed control back on, which leads to my next questions.

1) What is the correct speed to try to set the machine to before turning it on?

2) I noticed that my drive gear spins in an oval, it is a gilmer belt. Is this normal? I don't want to turn it on till I know its not gonna break or ruin anything.

3) How smoothly should the worm gear roll over the quadrant? With the assembly off the machine, I have to use channel locks or vice grips to turn it and about 1/3 of the way down the quadrant it gets near impossible to turn. I noticed that my worm gear moves in and out some, I only have a thin washer that is a little concave and the retaining clip on it.

I'll get some pictures in the next couple days.

DLB

It is very important to never adjust the speed control unless the shafts are turning. (They can be turned manually if necessary, a sanding disc is useful for this.) This to prevent damage, usually to the speed control.

1) The manuals say to always turn the speed to the slowest setting before turning it off, and to only turn it on at the slowest setting. That said, many of us do not adhere to this all of the time. For example if I am sawing and/or Jointing I leave my machine on the appropriate speed for those operations and just turn the power on and off. IF my circuit breaker tripped when I did this then I would need to slow the machine down for the power cycles. But for shop safety and to prevent damage to equipment, do not over-speed whatever is attached.

2) I'm not understanding when you say your drive gear spins in an oval. I'm not sure what you are calling the drive gear. A picture of what you are looking at would help here. But I think that is bad. (If your machine has a Gilmer belt it is probably not from 1979. Gilmer belts went away from new production around 1960.)

3) The speed control should move very easily over the full mechanical range of the quadrant, especially uninstalled. Anything different from that is pointing to an underlying problem. I believe you should have one more washer on your worm gear, there is usually a spring washer, a washer, and a retaining ring (in that order), but I doubt if this is the problem. Check for galling where the worm gear rotates inside the bracket, ensure that the mounting arms (for the quadrant) on the bracket are straight, etc. Basically you'll need to isolate the source of the mechanical resistance. The quadrant needs to swing straight to retain proper alignment with the worm gear or it starts binding, this would be my first guess so look very closely at those mounting arms.

Suggestion: Consider starting a new thread for these maintenance concerns on your machine.

Good Luck!

David

DGear74

Wasn't able to find a washer small enough to fill the gap between the washer and retaining clip. It was probably .010 in. Re-installed quadrant/speed control assembly and turned it on. The high speed stop was set so that the set screw was flush with the jam nut. I double checked that the worm gear wasn't going to turn off the teeth onto the porkchop before reinstalling. Turned it on and the motor started running up to a very high speed. Started turning it down and about mid speed, the sheave is hitting the quadrant. Looking through the posts I have not come across anyone having this issue.

Thanks for the help, I haven't forgotten to take the pictures, just haven't posted them yet. Work on the machine or take pictures of it...

JPG

Please continue this discussion @ https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=23250

db5

Another rule for "Gibbs' Shopsmith Rules" on page 1

Rule # 6 When tightening the drill chuck use all 3 hole positions. Otherwise you risk elongating the hole you are using. Loosening from only one hole is acceptable. (added 2021)

JPG

Elongating the hole is irrelevant.

You should ALWAYS go around at least once to all three positions.

jsburger

JPG wrote Elongating the hole is irrelevant.

You should ALWAYS go around at least once to all three positions.

Please explain why that is necessary. A chuck has an outside sleeve and an internal nut that drives the jaws in unison. The nut and sleeve are an interference fit so you have to press the sleeve off to rebuild/clean the chuck. It does not matter what hole you put the chuck key in everything turns together.

Portable drills no longer have keyed chucks. We now have keyless drill press chucks. They all work the same as a keyed chuck.

A wives tail for sure.

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