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Newowner Informaton

JPG

Rich wroteI have 150 posts to make for an old victorian.porch so in need of help on any solutions for replication fixtures needed to run prefect replacements

Best if possible to buy a lsthe replicator the adapt it to its model

Anyone have any ideas?

Rich

You will have to create one for the model 10.

Yes it has been done.

Check out Shipwright's thread.

rpd

JPG wrote
Rich wroteI have 150 posts to make for an old Victorian porch, so in need of help on any solutions for replication fixtures needed to run prefect replacements.

Best if possible to buy a lathe duplicator, then adapt it to this model?

Anyone have any ideas?

Rich
You will have to create one for the model 10.

Yes it has been done.

Check out Shipwright's thread.

Welcome aboard. :)

Link to Shipwright's thread.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/woodworking-tool-review-f9/clever-shop-made-copy-lathe--t6182.html

Another option would be to make "lathe dancers". http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?t=5819

Rich

My thanks....wishing my Dad was still with me as this elegant solution would have been duck soup for the guy.

Saw a Rocklet table top lathe duplicator online...modelTAT940808R...called...

Looks like it may work but not sure if this will handle a 3 inch dia spindle at 24 inch max length

About 350 samolians but since finished units are quite expensive....this maybe best alternative

Last question....guy suggested best wood for outdoor use was either Spanish Cedar or soft Mahogany

Is this valid?

Rich

I'll give it a try and was told 90 day return policy oon the Rocker unit.

Truly amazed at fast help and thanks much!

everettdavis

Meisner wroteDELETED

Go to https://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=185690#p185690 and follow the Link My Google Drive. In the Mark VII 1960 vintage folder and you will find a fully restored Mark VII manual, with enhancements including the 4 different wiring diagrams for the 4 known motor types, and other links.

It's in PDF form, is free, and I guarantee will be far more legible than what shopsmith copies and sends out.

The 1960's Mark VII was not made by the current owners of Shopsmith and what documentation they have is offered as a courtesy copy made from documents that they found in the materials they acquired from previous owners. It's all they have to work from and definitely better than not having any info at all.

JPG is the Mark VII Guru here. See one of his Mark VII posts at:

http://www.shopsmith.com/ss_forum/viewtopic.php?p=128115#p128115

Everett.

jsburger

I believe that message is spam Everett. In his statement "The motor runs more" the word more is a link to a web site. It is hard to the the underline but it is there.

everettdavis

jsburger wroteI believe that message is spam Everett. In his statement "The motor runs more" the word more is a link to a web site. It is hard to the the underline but it is there.

Thanks. I was trying to help out a new user 'Meisner' from my cell phone and was outside. I did not see that 'more' link in the sunlight when I was replying to it.

I see now that Admin has deleted the original post as updated in my post's citation of it above.

Well.... I tried to help someone. Maybe someone can use those links in the future who really have a Mark VII.

Blessings everyone,

Everett

Viejo

Dave Barnett here in Hutto, Texas.

Although I've been aware of ShopSmith for years I am just now a first time owner having picked up a Mk5 (ser# 328507, 1956 year of manufacture) at an estate sale last week for a "pig in a poke" price. On my initial removal of the headstock covers it is fairly apparent that the Speedial had been rotated without the motor running at one time or another in the past as the motor belt was riding on the shaft of the adjustable sheaves.... I do not know how long the unit sat idle before I bought it but I think it was at least ten years. I was fairly sure when I hand rotated the attached table saw blade that the motor was probably going to need replacement as well, which has been confirmed. Judging from the condition of the belts I believe they have been changed at least once. Everything inside the covers was clean and still well lubed. The tubular ways had some very minor pitting in the hard chrome but the power head still travels quite smoothly. I paid $300.00 for the Mk5 which included the jig saw, planer, and shaper attachments as well as chuck(s), lathe tools, and assorted shaper heads so I feel I can probably spend a few bucks more and still have a fine tool and a good value.

My initial questions are- 1. Was any serious damage done when the Speedial was rotated without the motor running and, if so, is it user fixable (I'm good with tools and follow directions/drawings well)? My initial examination did not reveal anything that looked catastrophic and the Speedial mechanism still moves the adjustable sheaves. 2. When replacing the motor should I stay with the original 3/4hp motor or bump up to the 1.5hp motor used in later models? I'm going to assume that motors are available from SS.

I'll also be looking around for a good magnifying glass to be able to read the impossibly fine print in the owner's manual diagrams (I have all the original paperwork that came with the tool; I believe I am only the second owner).

Looking forward to a part of the ShopSmith community!

Eugenius

I haven't had to do any serious work on my headstock (that is, the motor, belts, speed control, etc.), but I recommend that you check out this web site: https://jacobs-repairshop.com.

Jacob Anderson rebuilds headstocks and sells this service and a few service items on this web site. But he also has a number of videos on what it takes to service the headstock. This should give you a good idea what's involved.

Viejo

Eugenius wroteI haven't had to do any serious work on my headstock (that is, the motor, belts, speed control, etc.), but I recommend that you check out this web site: https://jacobs-repairshop.com.

Jacob Anderson rebuilds headstocks and sells this service and a few service items on this web site. But he also has a number of videos on what it takes to service the headstock. This should give you a good idea what's involved.

"Eugenius"- thanks for the tip! I've taken a quick tour of the Jacobs website and it looks like a great resource.

JPG

How did you ascertain a defective motor by rotating the saw blade and how did you 'confirm' that?

The damage done to the speed control is typically mashing of the teeth on the quadrant gear(porkchop) and deformation of quadrant gear pivot legs.(fixable)

The later induction motor is 1 1/8 HP and is a direct replacement. I would not 'upgrade' until I had determined it is necessary.

If your 'confirmation' was due to it not running, look for why before assuming it requires replacing.

Now the belt running on the idler shaft may be an indication of the control sheave missing the bearing etc. on the end that rides on the quadrant gear. A pix will confirm that. Also fixable!

Welcome!!!!

Viejo

JPG wroteHow did you ascertain a defective motor by rotating the saw blade and how did you 'confirm' that?

The damage done to the speed control is typically mashing of the teeth on the quadrant gear(porkchop) and deformation of quadrant gear pivot legs.(fixable)

The later induction motor is 1 1/8 HP and is a direct replacement. I would not 'upgrade' until I had determined it is necessary.

If your 'confirmation' was due to it not running, look for why before assuming it requires replacing.

Now the belt running on the idler shaft may be an indication of the control sheave missing the bearing etc. on the end that rides on the quadrant gear. A pix will confirm that. Also fixable!

Welcome!!!!

JPG... thanks for the quick response! As always, good questions are the first step to good solutions!

When I hand rotated the blade at the estate sale I felt significantly varying degrees of resistance during the course of each revolution. A follow-up powered check of the motor in my shop resulted in (very) slight initial rotation and then full stop. The o/o switch is good and all external wiring and connectors are undamaged.

Without going any deeper than the removal of the headstock covers, my inspection showed the sheaves moving in what appeared to me to be a smooth and even manner when I rotated the Speedial. The belts show no sign of "trauma", i.e. burned or abraded sections. The catch here, of course, is that this is new ground for me so I may not really know what it is I'm looking at/for.

I believe my next course of action should be to start watching some of the numerous videos noted on the SS forum (the "sawdust series" sounds promising) to get a good baseline of general knowledge about the Mk5. I like to do do my own maintenance, but I'm also a firm believer in "physician- first, do no harm", so I'll proceed slowly. I also remember the advice given to me by one of my first "sea daddys" when I joined the Merchant Marine years ago- "before you beat yourself half to death trying to solve a problem, first take a minute and find out if someone else already has".

I must say at the outset that I am extremely impressed with the SS community. I knew SS had a loyal following, but I had no idea it was so vast and wide ranging.

Cheers,

JPG

The differing resistance was likely due to belt deformation(they had taken a 'set').

If the motor was not humming loudly when it 'stopped', it likely had a sudden power interruption.

I would check the switch and wiring (electrical continuity).

An ohmmeter would be helpful!

Finally verify the bearing and wire loop are present on the end of the control sheave hub.

Viejo

JPG wroteThe differing resistance was likely due to belt deformation(they had taken a 'set').

If the motor was not humming loudly when it 'stopped', it likely had a sudden power interruption.

I would check the switch and wiring (electrical continuity).

An ohmmeter would be helpful!

Finally verify the bearing and wire loop are present on the end of the control sheave hub.

JPG- Alas, the motor did hum heartily after stopping (until I opened the switch), and a continuity check of all switch related wiring was positive. Your mention of deformed belts being responsible for varying resistance to rotation never occurred to me (thanks, I've learned something already!) so I double checked them for pliability and they were ok. No funeral plans yet, but the future does not appear all that rosy for the old motor.

Cheers,

Dave

everettdavis

Check to see if the spring-loaded centrifugal motor start contacts return to the closed position and don’t have an obstruction between them. Without them closing the motor start windings are disconnected and the motor will hum trying to start from the run windings which it cannot do.

Some have an external motor start relay whose contacts can fail etc.

Everett

JPG

Humming is actually a good sign(as long as the duration was short). Jerking then humming is how they act when the start circuit is ineffective.

Start a new thread and we can proceed from there.

Ash1562

Hi JPG

From reading around, I see you're the expert on '60s era Mark VII so as a new owner, I have a question: on the lower sheave (at the motor) I understand there's to be a spring that needs to be pulled apart to expose the hole for the oil. I see a case over that spring, as shown in the exploded view as well. Any advice on the best way to take that case off so I can lubricate it?

thx

Ash

everettdavis

Same as Mark V. Pull the spring away from the sheave side to expose the oil hole.

Also snag the restored Mark VII Owners Manual in the Mark VII Folder BR following the My Google Drive link.

Everett

Ash1562

I got that manual, so thank you Everett. On there, I see an exploded view that has a case over the spring with a retainer ring. Am I to take the retainer ring off and expose the spring and _then_ pull it apart to expose the hole for the oil? Or am I misunderstanding something?

Specifically, on that manual on your Google Drive, on pg 46, Fig 88 shows how to oil that spring. And on pg. 54, item #21 is the case over the spring.

I hope that clarifies!

everettdavis

The oil hole is on the same area of the idler sheave as it is on the control sheave. Put it in high speed mode and turn it off. (Yes you will manually rotate the quill with machine off to wind it down to slow before turning it back on. In fast, the spring is not compressed tightly and you can pull it back without taking it off.

See a photo of the control sheave for where to look for the hole. If you have it in slow mode, that spring is so compressed there is no room to pull spring back.

Everett

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