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Back at the shop move...

twinman

robinson46176 wroteWhen I tell people how we do the AC they keep insisting that it cannot possibly work... even though it has been not working quite acceptably for 3 years now... :eek: :rolleyes: :)

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OK, you've tossed this teaser out there and I'll take the bait, how do "you" do A/C?

Ed in Tampa

mrhart wrote

Thats crazy! never heard of such a thing.

Not if you lived in northern Ohio and couldn't get gas and had to heat with Electricity. The guy that bought my old house was a developer. He built a new house on the property heated it with gas. Then he ran an ad new home custom built with natural gas. Since it was the only one avail with gas due to the gas company refusal to accept any more new customers he had a one of a kind and I believe he made a fortune selling it.

I on the other hand moved into a home with electric heat and while the GE Weathertron was an excellent heat pump, I learned how precious each dollar was that I spent on insulation building the house.

I had 2x6 walls with 2 inch foam and 6 inch fiberglass, sealed with house mylar house wrap on the inside, triple paned windows and R45 insulation in the ceiling. I could nearly heat the house with a candle but my electric bills were always higher than my old house gas and electric together.

Lived there three years and move to Florida where I don't worry about heat all that much anymore :D

robinson46176

twinman wroteOK, you've tossed this teaser out there and I'll take the bait, how do "you" do A/C?

A 10,200 BTU window unit....

Like the heating it is mostly thermal mass and good distribution.

Note that we air condition, we do not refrigerate. For heating and cooling both we shoot for about 70 degrees but it will vary + or - 5 degrees depending on the outside temps, winds and speed of outdoor temperature change summer or winter.

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robinson46176

We had company most of the day yesterday from about 11 AM on until evening but I did manage to get the Push me - Pull me drill-press moved yesterday morning. It was not as bad to move as I was expecting it to be. It would have been horrible to move in one piece though, tall and top heavy. Since it uses 2 pivot ends I just stripped off the tables and the levers etc. and loosened the set screws at the pivot ends. I left the headstocks at one end and locked the carriages about a foot from the other end. I pulled it apart into 3 pieces and carried them out to the truck. At the new shop my wife helped me carry the 2 way-tube sections down the stairs into the basement shop. I was feeling so generous that I even gave her the light end. 🙂 They were not that heavy but it was just a lot easier winding through the old basement with 2 people for balancing.

I put it all back together in the new shop but I still don't have the caster set installed on it yet but it is laying under it to go on as soon as I get a chance. Today was supposed to be a day off but it turned into a kind of crazy "horse day"...

Here is an older pic of the Push me - pull me for those that don't know what I am talking about.

push me - pull me.JPG

mrhart

robinson46176 wroteA 10,200 BTU window unit....

Like the heating it is mostly thermal mass and good distribution.

Note that we air condition, we do not refrigerate. For heating and cooling both we shoot for about 70 degrees but it will vary + or - 5 degrees depending on the outside temps, winds and speed of outdoor temperature change summer or winter.

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You're right, that cannot possibley work ;) ....but I've always said that cooling is a luxary not a necessity. I've gone without air cond in my pickup for 3 summers (comp dead) and my family "can't imagine" how I get by. My reply is always the same, "your grandparents did".

heathicus

Farmer, your basement might be haunted! Some people would say those "blotches"in that one picture are really "Orbs" which are... ghosts! :eek: There are whole websites and the occasional FOX tv special dedicated to such photographic evidence of the supernatural.

But some more level-headed people would say it's just dust specs close to the camera lens catching the light. But maybe you should call in an exorcist just in case! :D

bffulgham

heathicus wroteFarmer, your basement might be haunted! Some people would say those "blotches"in that one picture are really "Orbs" which are... ghosts! :eek: There are whole websites and the occasional FOX tv special dedicated to such photographic evidence of the supernatural.

But some more level-headed people would say it's just dust specs close to the camera lens catching the light. But maybe you should call in an exorcist just in case! :D

They did a number on a couple of shots I took there. Here's one.:eek: :D

JPG

Gee! I been blaming those on internal lense reflections.:rolleyes:

robinson46176

I had "sort of" planned to move 3 Shopsmiths today but then I got up this morning and Diana and I both decided that it must be Sunday and time for a Sunday drive. :)

We engaged in the "old people's national pass-time"... (eating out :D ).

Got home mid afternoon, did some horse gate moving, planned a couple of small fence projects and then moved a little stuff from the old shop to the new one. I didn't get 3 Shopsmiths moved but I did move my Mark VII (which is dang heavy) and a lot of small stuff. I moved a small herd of SS tables, extension tables, fences, tail-stocks etc. and a batch of hand tools. Oh, yeah the frame of a mini I have been working on. I had a pretty good truck load.

I had a stupid attack in the middle of it. I stripped the extras off of the Mark VII and then locked the headstock and carriage in place. Next I unlatched the 2 pivot latches and lifted the upper section off. I decided that it was a bit heavy to carry to the truck and sat it back down and started looking for a dolly or something to roll it to the truck. Then it hit me... Use the base you stupid #$%&... :rolleyes: so I latched it back and raised it up on the casters and pushed it effortlessly to the door and outside. It was then easy to lift one end at a time to put the upper section in the truck and sit the lower section in beside it. I swear, some days I need a keeper... :D

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robinson46176

Finally getting in a little shop time again and got started on my wall storage system. Dang I work slow anymore. :rolleyes:

Before anyone worries, those are just old stains on that corner wall from many years ago. In spite of appearances that wall is stone dry and has been for a long time. I'm not sure why it looks so dark in the picture it isn't remotely that dark in real life. 🙂

Painting is a good ways away yet.

I'm using 1/2" foam board behind the panels then hanging both from the sill plate.

The rails are made of a 1.5" strip of 7/16" OSB as a spacer with a 2.5" front face of .25" OSB. Hangers will be identical but flipped. Everything is glued with Titebond. The faces of the rails are glued and stapled (air nailer/stapler) to the spacers then the rails are glued and screwed to the panels. This section is where my bench will sit about 4' or so from the wall and I will generally work standing between the bench and the wall with my back to the panel. This section will mostly be misc. hand tools like chisels, screwdrivers etc.

I felt the need to hang something up so I grabbed the dovetail jig that has an "L" flange on the back and hooked it over a rail. 🙂 Some of this area will be some smallish peg board panels. I have a lot of pegboard hooks and hangers from our store.

One 8' panel done, 9 more to go...

wall system 1.JPG

Wall system 4.JPG

Wall system 5.JPG

robinson46176

At 24'X40' with only two doors this shop has a "lot" of wall area. The shop I am (slowly) getting moved out of was bigger but had a lot of doors and 16' of picture windows along with some smaller windows. The reasoning behind the rail wall system I am installing (last post) is to put as much stuff as I can up on the walls. I just realized something else this morning that I can wall mount. I have my Delta compound miter saw currently mounted on one end of a Shopsmith with a set of extension table post. I can use it there or I can also easily clamp it in a B&D Workmate. I am going to remake the table for it to mount on a set of brackets to hang on the wall probably pretty close to where I will be standing at the workbench so I can just turn around and make a quick cut. It will need to have the mount so that it hooks on the 2 lower slat rails for good support since it is a bit heavy and will be cantilevered out from the wall. I can leave the Shopsmith mount intact so if I want it can just be lifted off of the wall and mount it back on the SS or the Workmate. I will also make a pair of brackets for the wall to support the ends of the material being cut. They will be easy to slide back and forth to where ever they are needed.

About the only change to the saw is that I don't use the little cloth bag for sawdust but always either use a DC or a shop-vac. It normally comes straight off of the back but I will need to mount an elbow on the outlet so it will clear the wall.

Current mounting, now it will be one less thing to be shuffling around all of the time. 🙂

Chop saw on Shopsmith.JPG

I have several wooden shelf sets that will be hung from the wall rather than sit on the floor so I can sweep the floor right over to the wall with a push-broom. Hopefully everything will either be on wheels or up off of the floor high enough to sweep under.

swampgator

I have the same Delta mitre saw that I dearly love. Mine has one weakness. I often check the fence to ensure it is square. Normally, all adjustments (infrequent) are on the left side. I must not be tightening it enough. Will try some loctite next time. But, it is a really sweet saw. :cool:

JPG

It will be interesting to see how you adapt it to the wall mount. The upper strip mounting is a no-brainer, but getting the cantilevered weight transferred to the lower strip, that will be 'interesting'. I suggest a diagonal brace that will also clear the ss when mounted there.

robinson46176

JPG40504 wroteIt will be interesting to see how you adapt it to the wall mount. The upper strip mounting is a no-brainer, but getting the cantilevered weight transferred to the lower strip, that will be 'interesting'. I suggest a diagonal brace that will also clear the ss when mounted there.

Yes, a diagonal brace is the plan. It will be on both sides and just clear the back of the "bed" area. It will more hang from an upper cleat than be supported by the lower cleat. I'll have to putter with it to decide the exact height I want it. Even then It will be adjustable.

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robinson46176

Finally got the compound miter saw wall mount made. It is pretty simple, I like simple. I think it will serve fine. I originally planned for the diagonals to reach out farther but had to move them back at the bottom to clear the big lock knob on the back when swung around to 45 degrees. As usual it was all assembled with Tite-bond and screws. You can see that it still has the SS post mounts attached.

Wall system miter saw mount.JPG

One kind of cool thing about this wall system over French cleats is that since it does not wedge in tightly if you want to move something over you just put your hand on the side and slide it along.

You can still hang an item with a French cleat on these rails or hang something with these hanger sections on the back on a French cleat.

I also got a couple of small cabinets holding SS parts and accessories mounted.

JPG

robinson46176 wroteFinally got the compound miter saw wall mount made. It is pretty simple, I like simple. I think it will serve fine. I originally planned for the diagonals to reach out farther but had to move them back at the bottom to clear the big lock knob on the back when swung around to 45 degrees. As usual it was all assembled with Tite-bond and screws. You can see that it still has the SS post mounts attached.

[ATTACH]16260[/ATTACH]

One kind of cool thing about this wall system over French cleats is that since it does not wedge in tightly if you want to move something over you just put your hand on the side and slide it along.

You can still hang an item with a French cleat on these rails or hang something with these hanger sections on the back on a French cleat.

I also got a couple of small cabinets holding SS parts and accessories mounted.

.

Well Done!:cool:

But that comes as no surprise!;)

P.S. I just noticed it sits on the cleats. What prevents it from sliding off?

robinson46176

JPG40504 wroteWell Done!:cool:

But that comes as no surprise!]

Those cleats are big hooks. My pictures don't show it too well. The second picture on this page shows the concept better but mine are a little different (simpler) than his. I saw no reason to make it as tight as he did for my needs. My wall part and tool bracket part are identical (just reversed). The 2 hooks over lap an inch.

My spacers are both 7/16" X 1.5" OSB and my "hooks" (face parts) are both 1/4" X2.5" OSB.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/shop/archive/2009/08/04/hyper-organize-your-shop.aspx

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bffulgham

robinson46176 wroteThose cleats are big hooks. My pictures don't show it too well. The second picture on this page shows the concept better but mine are a little different (simpler) than his. I saw no reason to make it as tight as he did for my needs. My wall part and tool bracket part are identical (just reversed). The 2 hooks over lap an inch.

My spacers are both 7/16" X 1.5" OSB and my "hooks" (face parts) are both 1/4" X2.5" OSB.

http://americanwoodworker.com/blogs/shop/archive/2009/08/04/hyper-organize-your-shop.aspx .

I've used OSB for lots of different things....paneling, floors, decking, 'disposable' table tops (cutting, welding, jigs, etc.), but never in a 'structural' mode. By 'structural', I mean like for your rails and hooks where weight is more concentrated. I'm curious how the OSB is going to hold up being under a focused load over time.....especially the 1/4" stuff. I can see how it would be just fine supporting vertical weight as the weight is at a 90 degree angle to the orientation of the wood fibers. With something like your miter saw rack, the upper support will be exerting some pull horizontal to the rail and hook.

robinson46176

bffulgham wrote I can see how it would be just fine supporting vertical weight as the weight is at a 90 degree angle to the orientation of the wood fibers. With something like your miter saw rack, the upper support will be exerting some pull horizontal to the rail and hook.

I think this stuff will be just fine. Now some of the old "flake board" and earlier OSB would be a different story. This that I am using is pretty high resin content and pretty hard.

Some of the crap I bought at the local lumber yard a few years ago I would not use for this application. It was just awful. Flakey and the surface was rough and uneven. You could just lift whole flakes off of it.

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bffulgham

robinson46176 wroteI think this stuff will be just fine. Now some of the old "flake board" and earlier OSB would be a different story. This that I am using is pretty high resin content and pretty hard.

Some of the crap I bought at the local lumber yard a few years ago I would not use for this application. It was just awful. Flakey and the surface was rough and uneven. You could just lift whole flakes off of it.

.

I think you are probably correct. BTW....I forgot to add earlier...

GOOD JOB!;) :D I like the concept, application, and execution.

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