Shopsmith Forums

I turn pens on my SS all the time. They gave a mandrel made especially for the 5/8" shaft. Works like a charm!

Wouldn't one long doorstop type wedge of wood do the trick? You could move the SS anywhere and only need to kick it under the offending leg.

Kelly

wa2crk wrote:KCMoore
Suitable switch
http://www.we-supply.com/browse.cfm/bat ... ,2915.html
Bill V

Thanks Bill!

Gotta love the internet sometimes!

I am going to bed a happy guy!

As a quick(temporary) fix, remove the white wires and connect them to each other manually. Move the black and blue wires to the terminals where the white wires 'were'. Rewire correctly when switch replaced.


Great idea! It seems to be working normally now that I turned the switch on with a little ...

Ok, I went out and cycled the switch a bunch of times. I the. Plugged it in and tried turning it on forcefully and it powered up. Wonky switch!

Thanks for asking me the leading questions to get me thru this!

Or is the switch bad? White and black in, white and blue out to the motor. Yet I don't get continuity between the black and blue terminals when it is on. Seems like the switch is the culprit.

Agree?

Ok, the switch has 4 wires coming into it, 2 white, 1 black, 1 blue. There is power to the black and one of the white. I unplugged it and did an ohm check across the whites. It is open when off, shorted when on. The black and blue don't ohm out to anything. Seems like the switch is good.

Yes. I'll check the power at the switch.

Is that secondary switch like a solenoid? There is a familiar bump on the side of the motor that looks like my old VW starter solenoid. I used to have to tap on that thing to get it to turn the engine over. But, I could hear a clicking also. This one makes no sound.

Yes, the belts and pulleys all turn easily by hand. The belt is off now since I dropped the motor pan and it still won't turn on.