Using mobile shopsmith on uneven floor?
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Using mobile shopsmith on uneven floor?
My shop floor is really uneven and sloped - up to 3 degrees in places. It's also small enough I have to keep the shopsmith against the wall except when I pull it out to make some types of cuts, use the planer, etc. I have it all shimmed and aligned up against the wall. I don't want to have to do that each time.
I rent and can't replace the linoleum floor. The landlord did let me pull up the nasty wall to wall carpet and luckily, considering the use of the room, he linoleum is already a total mess.
All I can think of is to make it as rigid as possible and always move it between two exact locations and shim it the same way each time it is in a given spot. Even if I get it just right it will change over time. The house settles noticeably each year and each earthquake (we're directly over the Hayward fault - only place I've lived where I hear the earthquakes before feeling them!)
Any suggestions?
I rent and can't replace the linoleum floor. The landlord did let me pull up the nasty wall to wall carpet and luckily, considering the use of the room, he linoleum is already a total mess.
All I can think of is to make it as rigid as possible and always move it between two exact locations and shim it the same way each time it is in a given spot. Even if I get it just right it will change over time. The house settles noticeably each year and each earthquake (we're directly over the Hayward fault - only place I've lived where I hear the earthquakes before feeling them!)
Any suggestions?
Greenie (no serial #), 82 Mark V 500 serial #128648, ci bandsaw, old jigsaw, planer. All one buy in March 2014. Magna Jointer added Nov. '14. Speed reducer, conical disk and two bearing quill upgrade.
- idcook
- Gold Member
- Posts: 472
- Joined: Wed Mar 06, 2013 4:48 pm
- Location: New York (Alley cat country), New York
Build a platform with legs that can be adjusted to hold the machine level within or outside of the shop.
If built to fit just beyond the base of the machine it shouldn’t be very difficult to move it to any location you prefer.
If you don’t have casters for the machine get a set to help make it easier to move.
If built to fit just beyond the base of the machine it shouldn’t be very difficult to move it to any location you prefer.
If you don’t have casters for the machine get a set to help make it easier to move.
All you have to do is to keep it from rocking when in use. Dangerous otherwise!. If the floor is just not level it should not cause any problem except possibly when using the drill press in the verticle position. Could make it tippy if the floor is really unlevel.
The geometry of the machine will not change just because one end is a bit higher than the other. The table will still be square to blade regardless.
Shim the legs to make it stable and not rocking and you will be OK. You will not have to realign it each time.
Bill V
The geometry of the machine will not change just because one end is a bit higher than the other. The table will still be square to blade regardless.
Shim the legs to make it stable and not rocking and you will be OK. You will not have to realign it each time.
Bill V
- JPG
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
Relocate!;)
I agree all you need to do is shim the 'high' feet. Cedar shakes should be an easy way to do that.
I agree all you need to do is shim the 'high' feet. Cedar shakes should be an easy way to do that.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
I had the same problem. My solution was shim each corner until the way tubes were as level as possible. Then use winding sticks and shimmed out any twist. I marked the floor with tape measured the thickness of the temporary shims, made permanent shims. Then fastened the shims to each corner of the SS base. I used the marks to return the SS to the same spot used to make the initial alignment.
Glenn
I create problem solving challenges and opportunities for design modification, not mistakes.
SS 520 born 04/16/03, Power Station mounted Band saw , Scroll saw, Jointer, Belt sander, Overarm router, dedicated Mark V drill press, SS Maxi-clamp system, Shopsmith woodworking bench
I create problem solving challenges and opportunities for design modification, not mistakes.
SS 520 born 04/16/03, Power Station mounted Band saw , Scroll saw, Jointer, Belt sander, Overarm router, dedicated Mark V drill press, SS Maxi-clamp system, Shopsmith woodworking bench
- BuckeyeDennis
- Platinum Member
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- Location: Central Ohio
- "Wild Bad Bob"
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Fri Mar 28, 2014 2:03 pm
- Location: Germantown, Wi
The house settles noticeably each year and each earthquake (we're directly over the Hayward fault - only place I've lived where I hear the earthquakes before feeling them!)
Time to really move!!!!
Time to really move!!!!
Measure once, cut as many times as needed to get it right! Bob
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
56/57 Greenie with jointer, 85 Mark V with band saw, 63 Goldie with jointer, 3 ER 10s, 1951 vintage, Hernia from the Er 10s, Tool Shop SS clone 6" jointer, and 6" belt sander, Delta 10" TS, Buffalo 6" jointer, Craftsman 12" BS, 10" Ryobi planer. Compound Miter, and misc.
Thanks for all the suggestions. I have it shimmed now, I haven't used the table saw for more than a few cuts so far since I'm completely reorganizing the shop. I am under the impression I want it all really aligned in order to make accurate cuts. I guess I will make it as rigid as possible and come up with two sets of shims and mark out the two exact spots. And then check after each earthquake, of course ;)
I don't think I can put in a flat floor area without doing the whole room and don't know if I could do that since it is a high traffic area... Odd place for a shop but all I've got. It is a 9 by 13 room between the living room and bathroom, really awkward with three doors and a window, just one bare wall. It's looking like I'll have to get rid of the second ss, or make a banzai shopsmith out of it. That's for another thread later...
Really, earthquakes aren't scary when you've grown up here. And that's not bravado, just stupidity through acclimation. You just call everyone and say "did you feel that?" - unless it is a big one like 1989. On the other hand, I would be a mess living where there are hurricanes or tornadoes!
I don't think I can put in a flat floor area without doing the whole room and don't know if I could do that since it is a high traffic area... Odd place for a shop but all I've got. It is a 9 by 13 room between the living room and bathroom, really awkward with three doors and a window, just one bare wall. It's looking like I'll have to get rid of the second ss, or make a banzai shopsmith out of it. That's for another thread later...
Really, earthquakes aren't scary when you've grown up here. And that's not bravado, just stupidity through acclimation. You just call everyone and say "did you feel that?" - unless it is a big one like 1989. On the other hand, I would be a mess living where there are hurricanes or tornadoes!
Greenie (no serial #), 82 Mark V 500 serial #128648, ci bandsaw, old jigsaw, planer. All one buy in March 2014. Magna Jointer added Nov. '14. Speed reducer, conical disk and two bearing quill upgrade.
I'd say you are right.
I think I was too concerned about keeping it all aligned so I could rely on it to make precision cuts. In truth I will rarely use the table saw and can tune up the alignment when I do. The bandsaw doesn't care as long as the power gets to it nice and smoothly, the drill press is not hard to check, the planer also just needs a straight shot for smooth power. Lathe isn't so picky. So, yeah. Seems I was overly worried. The flier is so screwy that I'll have to do a sanity check each time I move it but making the base rigid enough that a corner WILL come off the ground when it needs shining and it should be fine. Guess I need to build a nice rigid toolbox between the legs.
I think I was too concerned about keeping it all aligned so I could rely on it to make precision cuts. In truth I will rarely use the table saw and can tune up the alignment when I do. The bandsaw doesn't care as long as the power gets to it nice and smoothly, the drill press is not hard to check, the planer also just needs a straight shot for smooth power. Lathe isn't so picky. So, yeah. Seems I was overly worried. The flier is so screwy that I'll have to do a sanity check each time I move it but making the base rigid enough that a corner WILL come off the ground when it needs shining and it should be fine. Guess I need to build a nice rigid toolbox between the legs.
Greenie (no serial #), 82 Mark V 500 serial #128648, ci bandsaw, old jigsaw, planer. All one buy in March 2014. Magna Jointer added Nov. '14. Speed reducer, conical disk and two bearing quill upgrade.