Jointer Manual Disassemble Maintenance?

[suntower]

As so often happens, not sure what you mean.

Here's a piccie of the front of what I have. The outer red handle tightens the mighter gauge. But it does nothing to secure the side to side travel. That hex bolt (which just fits inside the ring the red handle is attached to_ is what holds the travel in place. IOW: they currently function independent of one another. AND there's no easy way to tighten the hex bolt so that it 'stays'. since it kinda sits -inside- the outer ring. Something's obviously not right. It seems like it should either be 'synched' to the red handle -or- be outside the concentric ring so it can be wrenched.

Referring back to the diagram:http://www.shopsmith.com/service/jointe ... iagram.htm

1. What does #46 -do-? Not getting how this helps.

2. It looks to me like #47 (the washer behind the red handle) is missing. Could that be the issue?

3. Maybe another stupid question: shouldn't there be a 'stop' on the side to side travel to keep the fence from falling off the edge? Or doesn't that matter?

As always,

---JC

The steel dowel pin is missing. (#46 1/4" x 1")

The fence height has not changed over the years????

It there a knob on the top of the guard above the 'hex' post?

[JPG]

jointer clamp.jpg (58.65 KiB) Viewed 5870 times

The washer(47) goes between 48 and the fence.

The curved slot in the fence slips over the threaded 'snout' on 42.

The washer(47) slips over the 'snout'.

The nut(48) threads onto the 'snout'.

The handle(49) slips over the nut(48).

The thin hex head screw(50) passes through the handle(49) and threads into internal threads in the 'snout'.

The screw when screwed into the 'snout' will press against the pin(46) that slides in a hole in 42. When riding on the bar, the pin will press against it to lock traverse.

No there are no stops. It will slide completely off the bar.

[beeg]

But it does nothing to secure the side to side travel. That hex bolt (which just fits inside the ring the red handle is attached to_ is what holds the travel in place. IOW: they currently function independent of one another. AND there's no easy way to tighten the hex bolt so that it 'stays'. since it kinda sits -inside- the outer ring. Something's obviously not right. It seems like it should either be 'synched' to the red handle -or- be outside the concentric ring so it can be wrenched.

#49 slides backwards to tighten/loosen the fence angle and slides forward to tighten/loosen side to side movement of the fence. NO NEED for a wrench.

[suntower]

#49 slides backwards to tighten/loosen the fence angle and slides forward to tighten/loosen side to side movement of the fence. NO NEED for a wrench.

EUREKA!

In the manual I have, #49 is referred to as 'The Two Socket Wrench'. I don't see it mentioning the whole forward/backward idea. Once again, I feel pretty -stupid-. I don't think it's the greatest design idea ever (I wonder if the hex bolt will get stripped) but hey, it -works-.

Thanks so much!

Now all I gotta do is figure out the Guard and I think I'm in business.


--JC

[suntower]

OK, back to the Guard problem.

The guard seems to be missing parts? I have the Guard itself, the cap, the spring and the hex dowel which fits in the table. But that's it.

I can't for the life of me figure out how it gets 'tensioned'. There has to be something that secures the spring to the hex dowel so that it can be 'wound up' like a watch, right?

Does it have parts on the underside of the table which secure to the Guard (like a nut perhaps?)

Lost.

[JPG]

#49 slides backwards to tighten/loosen the fence angle and slides forward to tighten/loosen side to side movement of the fence. NO NEED for a wrench.

EUREKA!

In the manual I have, #49 is referred to as 'The Two Socket Wrench'. I don't see it mentioning the whole forward/backward idea. Once again, I feel pretty -stupid-. I don't think it's the greatest design idea ever (I wonder if the hex bolt will get stripped) but hey, it -works-.

Thanks so much!

Now all I gotta do is figure out the Guard and I think I'm in business.


--JC

I do not know of anyone stripping the hex bolt. FWIW the casting will deform first - hence avoid a gorilla hand when tightening.

If you hold the base of the guard and turn the knob, is there resistance to turning(CW)? If not the spring is missing.

I do not know where that spring in your pix belongs.

[everettdavis]

I know that costs can be a factor, (it's just over $50) but I cannot over emphasize my recommendation for the feather board / guard upgrade. It has been standard on the new Jointers for a number of years.

http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... dretro.htm

The feather board is handy, and coupled with suitable push blocks, produces a safer working environment.

As I have suggested in other posts, consider any children you have or may be blessed with later who will someday inherit this machine. If you wont do it for yourself, do consider doing it for your children or grandchildren.

Everett

[suntower]

Hmmm... I thought the spring in my piccie was 'the spring' which fit inside the guard. (It was one of the parts in the foot locker this thing came in. Is that not the case?

Are enough parts missing that I just need to break down and buy a whole new guard?

Is that 'Feather Guard' upgrade a -replacement- for the current guard or do I need to fix the current guard to make the upgrade work?

[JPG]

Hmmm... I thought the spring in my piccie was 'the spring' which fit inside the guard. (It was one of the parts in the foot locker this thing came in. Is that not the case?

Are enough parts missing that I just need to break down and buy a whole new guard?

Is that 'Feather Guard' upgrade a -replacement- for the current guard or do I need to fix the current guard to make the upgrade work?

It is a TOTAL replacement.

It does involve drilling and tapping holes in the base.

[everettdavis]

It is a replacement as stated, and if you will look at the link I provided, they even sell a kit to simplify the upgrade.

Earlier you mentioned that there was a 4E Jointer manual you had found and I thought this picture of one might help you envision how it mounted on the early 10E and 10ER units, dropping down when not in use.

You will quickly see from the bottom of the Jointer, it is very much the same core mechanism, with a few subtle improvements through the years.

Everett

Dropdown Jointer 10ER.png (287.68 KiB) Viewed 5805 times