Shopsmith Forums

I knew I had seen one somewhere before.

In the photos section on the Yahoo Shopsmith10ERusers group there are two albums of photos of Chris Gentlle's Double Tilt 10ER
[https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Sho ... 2019024682
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Sho ... 1640345068

Double Tilt Base

cdgentile , Jul 6, 2012

Hi

I just posted some photos of a double tilt setup I have been working on. It has worked out really well and takes about 30 seconds to switch from tilting one way to another. I first drilled a 3/8 in hole completely through each tilt base and way tubes. I then made two cuts on each side of the tilt base bore one horizontal and the other vertical. After some clean up using the disc sander I inserted a 3/8in bolt and secured the bolt with a winged nut. All the work was done on another ER.
The cutting was done with an Avanti 7in circular cut-off blade (less than $3) at HD.
To tilt the unit I simply remove the two bolts on the opposite side and lift normally. This design does away with the hassle of having to remove the pins.

Chris in NC

rpd wrote:I knew I had seen one somewhere before.

In the photos section on the Yahoo Shopsmith10ERusers group there are two albums of photos of Chris Gentlle's Double Tilt 10ER

doulbletilt10er.jpg

[https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Sho ... 2019024682
https://groups.yahoo.com/neo/groups/Sho ... 1640345068

Double Tilt Base

cdgentile , Jul 6, 2012

Hi

I just posted some photos of a double tilt setup I have been working on. It has worked out really well and takes about 30 seconds to switch from tilting one way to another. I first drilled a 3/8 in hole completely through each tilt base and way tubes. I then made two cuts on each side of the tilt base bore one horizontal and the other vertical. After some clean up using the disc sander I inserted a 3/8in bolt and secured the bolt with a winged nut. All the work was done on another ER.
The cutting was done with an Avanti 7in circular cut-off blade (less than $3) at HD.
To tilt the unit I simply remove the two bolts on the opposite side and lift normally. This design does away with the hassle of having to remove the pins.

Chris in NC

Very nice! I really don't want to do any of that cutting, or drilling clean through the way tubes like he did, as I'd like to be able to reverse changes and go right back to a normal machine if something doesn't work out for any reason. However I respect the quality of work in his method. It doesn't look like a hack job.

I do really like the table he modified for it, eliminating the trunnion altogether. Although I hadn't considered that before, I had considered buying a spare table just for the reverse mode. So having it bolted rigid to support rods instead of tilting was a good design I may steal.

Looks like he did a real nice job with the color scheme as well, I like the red on some smaller parts.

Sent from my XT1585 using Tapatalk

Modified table???? Eliminated trunion????? The posts on the 10ER are smooth rounds, so, reversing the table is a simple matter of switching the posts in the carriage bores.

Oh I really like that mod! Simple yet elegant. Also very user friendly (highly functional!).

JPG wrote:Modified table???? Eliminated trunion????? The posts on the 10ER are smooth rounds, so, reversing the table is a simple matter of switching the posts in the carriage bores.

Oh I really like that mod! Simple yet elegant. Also very user friendly (highly functional!).

As stated before, when the table is flipped around, the trunnion prevents the quill from being able to align with or get close to being centered on the table insert. Making the table offset from the trunnion so the trunnion can drop below the quill and get closer to the headstock was my first plan. Eliminating the trunnion and only being able to have the table perpendicular to the way tubes was this other user's solution. That would almost require having a spare table to be practical.

badtheba wrote:

JPG wrote:Modified table???? Eliminated trunion????? The posts on the 10ER are smooth rounds, so, reversing the table is a simple matter of switching the posts in the carriage bores.

Oh I really like that mod! Simple yet elegant. Also very user friendly (highly functional!).

As stated before, when the table is flipped around, the trunnion prevents the quill from being able to align with or get close to being centered on the table insert. Making the table offset from the trunnion so the trunnion can drop below the quill and get closer to the headstock was my first plan. Eliminating the trunnion and only being able to have the table perpendicular to the way tubes was this other user's solution. That would almost require having a spare table to be practical.

Hmmmm. I seem to recall that

Here are the rest of the photos from Chris Gentile's albums.

I couldn't get them to download properly from the Yahoo site so these are cropped screen shots.

OK, so while I was disassembling my old treadmill for its motor and electronics, I had an aha! moment. If I took the main treadmill frame and cut it apart, then bolted it to the bottom of a shortened bench using the metal 10ER legs, I'd be able to have a base on the floor that the "left" end of the machine would cantilever over when in horizontal mode... Bear with me.

Here's the bare frame as I removed it from my basement. I brought it over to my friend's shop to do the initial work on it.
Now this week my friend told me I'd have to round up some of my various projects because they had some larger cabinet jobs coming up and needed all the space they could get. So tonight I went over and cut it up as planned.

Here's what I ended up with. If everything goes as planned I'll have a very rigid frame thanks to the accessory shelf (original treadmill deck ripped narrower) a few inches off the floor.
Here's how it would be positioned if facing the front of the machine. The left end headrest would be on the tilting (yet to be built) platform cantilevered over that end. When tilted down, the headstock would be allowed to go much lower than if I were to use a second pivot base. I don't know if this would be an advantage or not.

By the way, I will be shortening that treadmill frame a lot.

Following with interest!

Danriffle,

There is not much to follow here since this thread has been idle for almost three years now.

Although I didn't comment on this thread at the time I had thought about how I would make one if I was to consider making a double tilt Model 10 for fun. I would probably set it up to remove the pins between the base and arm to release either end to tilt it. To me that would be the least amount of changes to accomplish the goal. I would modify the pins to make them easier to remove and re-insert. Chris' solution for the table is an option I would consider from his double tilt Model 10. Since I have a Mark 7 I don't need a double tilt Model 10 and will not likely make one.