A few questions about restoring a Mark V

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eagspoo
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A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by eagspoo »

Hi everyone I recently purchased a Mark V 500 and am in the process of doing a functional restoration. It was in a fire and didn't experience direct damage or extreme heat but got coated pretty heavily in smoke which has left a film on many parts and cause getting it apart to be harder than it should be. The good news is that otherwise it is in good shape (still ran ok before I took the headstock apart) and I think hadn't seen a ton of miles.

Still, being about 45 years old and never having been maintained as far as I can tell, I am rebuilding the headstock, doing a lot of general cleanup, and fixing up a few other things. If anyone can help me out with a few questions I would really appreciate it.

(1) For cleaning all bare metal surfaces (a little surface rust and some smoke film) I'm planning on scrubbing with green scotch bright (~600 grit I think) and WD-40, then clean up with mineral spirits, then wax/graphite/lube as appropriate. Does this seem like a decent approach?

(2) I'm also replacing quill bearing (I have the single bearing quill) plus both drive shaft bearings, and the entire idler bearing/shaft which I purchased new on Ebay (the old single bearing version). For the bearings that require being pulled/pressed on/off, my plan is to use a regular bearing puller to get them off then carefully tap the new ones back on using a section pipe that can fit right down against the inner bearing surface. Again, does this approach seem safe? I'd rather not have to send these pieces out to be pressed on or buy a hydraulic press myself but will do one of those if people think my DIY approach is a terrible idea.

(3) On that note, one side of the drive shaft has a plastic part that prevents me from either taking off or replacing the bearing on that side. What is the best way to remove that plastic piece to get at the bearing? I was hesitant to pull very hard on it but I could fit the puller jaws around it if needed. Just didn't know if there was another trick to avoid breaking that part.
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(4) The way tubes, where they attach to the pivot side, are surprisingly wobbly which makes me worry accurately adjusting the lathe tailstock would be difficult or the tailstock would wobble while turning. They tubes wouldn't come out but I also couldn't locate a set screw for how to remove them (or just tighten them up to prevent the wobble. Is there a trick to this and/or is that kind of wobble actually ok?
[youtube]http://youtube.com/watch?v=s5HhTVH5pfg[/youtube]

(5) Because of the smoke film (which maybe I should have cleaned better first) taking the collar off the quill was really hard and I end up marking up the quill collar pretty badly since the metal is quite soft. I think it is still fine (just cosmetic) and I could clean it up a bit, but it looks bad. I couldn't find anywhere to buy just this part online and none are on Ebay right now - any thoughts on where to find one of these or if I should actually be worried about how beat up it got when removing it?
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Thanks in advance for any help or suggestions!
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chapmanruss
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by chapmanruss »

Since you said it suffered smoke damage but not heat damage from the fire I have to wonder how much it affected it. Was the fire in the room or garage it was stored in? By the way I am a retired Firefighter so I am very familiar with the effects of fire and smoke. Most house fires do not produce smoke with properties that would be of concern to your Shopsmith. Cleaning it up and checking out the motor for problems should be all that is needed. Again that is if there was no heat damage.

Cleaning - removing any rust and wiping down all surfaces is a good start. Depending on how detailed you want to get into restoring, refurbishing or just making it run again will determine how much you take it apart. If the paint is in good condition you may not need or want to completely restore it. Going through the headstock is a good idea. If the bearings in the Drive Sleeve and Quill turn freely and smoothly than you really don't need to replace them. If not than do replace them as this is the best time since you will already have the Headstock apart. The plastic sleeve on the Drive Sleeve Assembly is held in by a metal ring inside the sleeve and should pull off without to much effort. The removing and reinstalling the bearings you have suggested works okay but make sure the end of the pipe/tube you use to tap the bearings back on has a smooth end and only contacts the inner race of the bearings.

The set screws for the Way Tubes on the pivot side are inside the arm and can be a bit difficult to reach. They will need to be tightened to keep the tool together. It is a good reminder to check all attachment points for any loose set screws or other fasteners.

The Quill Collar should be fine to use just clean up/file down the rough spots without changing the original dimensions. Most of the damage will be hidden anyway.
Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E S/N 1077 oldest one I have restored. 10E S/N 1033 & Mark 2 to be restored.
DLB
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by DLB »

The plastic part you referred to in #3 above is called the Drive and Ring. This part can exhibit wear, especially with a single bearing quill. You can check its fit on the quill when you have it off. IIWM I'd be likely to replace it if I was replacing the quill bearing. They are about $9.50 new from Shopsmith. Due to shipping, I'd try to come up with a complete shopping list first.

For the hidden way tube setscrews you'll need a long 5/32" hex key. Some people recommend a ball driver for this particular spot because you'll encounter a slight angle due to the hinge pin, but it isn't a necessity. A hex key that is both long and gives you some leverage, such as a T handle, works best.

If you do come across a quill collar be aware that there is more than one version. I don't know how many versions, just that it is at least two.

Good luck with your rebuild.

- David
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JPG
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by JPG »

I agree with all above. IIWM I would just use the quill bearing retainer as long as the inner face is burr free.(dents ok)

HF sells a bearing puller/installer that with a 20% off coupon is very reasonable.

P.S. Skip the WD-40. Replace it with plain mineral spirits.
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
eagspoo
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by eagspoo »

Thanks everyone for your help.

- I filed the high spots down on that collar and it looks good now.
- I did skip the WD-40 and just mineral spirits, worked great
- I found the set screws for the way tubes and it tightened things right up

- I ordered a new Drive & Ring but I still don't see exactly where that retaining ring is that people mentioned. Is it down inside looking in from the end? If so man that is deep, and I couldn't feel anything down there with my pick.
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Or is the snapring holding on the plastic drive piece on the fatter, bearing side on the other end? Either way I couldn't see anything. Can someone post a picture of it or link to a video of someone removing the ring?

Someone here mentioned it should be pried out using a wide screwdriver, does that seem right?

- The quill return spring moves about half a turn without springing back and makes some noise in that range. Beyond that it does wind up and spring back but not sure if that initial 1/2 turn is how this is supposed to work or not. I'm guessing not. See this videos [youtube=]https://youtu.be/j1yAttguB8c[/youtube] to see what I mean.

If that spring does look bad, is it something I should replace or can it be taken apart and repaired?

Thanks again
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rpd
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by rpd »

The spring in the plastic drive is integral to the part, and gives it a friction fit on the drive sleeve. The plastic part just pries off, you don't remove the spring first.

Re the quill advance mechanism This video covers removal and repair
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbHVTwSp9DI
Ron Dyck
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JPG
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by JPG »

It would appear a PO greased the nylon sleeve. Not necessary. A carry over from the earlier models which had all steel sleeve and splined shaft.
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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chapmanruss
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by chapmanruss »

The ring holding the plastic Drive & Ring (P/N 514083 reference #57) for the Drive Sleeve Assembly is inside the part located where the arrow is pointing in the picture below. It is simply a round wire ring meant to hold it there.

_
Poly V Drive.png
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Russ

Mark V completely upgraded to Mark 7
Mark V 520
All SPT's & 2 Power Stations
Model 10ER S/N R64000 first one I restored on bench w/ metal ends & retractable casters.
Has Speed Changer, 4E Jointer, Jig Saw with lamp, a complete set of original accessories & much more.
Model 10E S/N 1077 oldest one I have restored. 10E S/N 1033 & Mark 2 to be restored.
DLB
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by DLB »

eagspoo wrote: Mon Apr 12, 2021 2:10 am The quill return spring moves about half a turn without springing back and makes some noise in that range. Beyond that it does wind up and spring back but not sure if that initial 1/2 turn is how this is supposed to work or not. I'm guessing not. See this videos [youtube=]https://youtu.be/j1yAttguB8c[/youtube] to see what I mean.

If that spring does look bad, is it something I should replace or can it be taken apart and repaired?
General guidelines for the quill return spring are don't turn it backwards, don't tension it beyond the point where it wants to stop, and don't let it snap when you remove the quill, instead ease the pre-tension out of it. In normal operation it will always be tensioned. I can't decide from your video if there is a problem or not. But the initial half turn is not a factor, when it is installed and properly set you'll never use that part of the rotation. Opinions vary on how much you should pre-tension it, but not to zero.

- David
eagspoo
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Re: A few questions about restoring a Mark V

Post by eagspoo »

Everything is together and looks pretty good but there is one thing I'm worried about. The Poly V belt just doesn't look vertical as it ended up during installation on the right side of the many grooves on the drive shaft. Getting the lower shaft installed was a *bear*. Not sure if there was a better way but after I got it on I really didn't want to try again.

Does this look ok?

The whole thing turns ok by hand grabbing and twisting the quill collet but does require some effort to make it turn, not sure if that is normal or not.
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