Restoration Progress On My 1955 Greenie

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a1gutterman
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Post by a1gutterman »

Shop_Smith_Poppi wrote:Does any one here know if it is possible to upload videos to this site?
I believe the answer is no. You can post a link to a video here though. For instance, do a video on you tube and post a link here.
Tim

Buying US made products will help keep YOUR job or retirement funds safer.
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mickyd
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Polishing Aluminum

Post by mickyd »

I don't know if locating the metal polishing information at the caswellplating.com website was a blessing or a curse. If you saw the thread that I started in this forum "Polishing Aluminum - How To Guide",it kicked out to Caswells metal finishing polishing guide pdf filethat they had on their website.

Anyway, I've begun doing the aluminum polishing on my '55 Greenie. My plans are to do these parts (possibly excluding the Sleeve and Insert Assemblies (part ref. 11, 22).


[ATTACH]3669[/ATTACH]

Initially, I thought that I would just buff the parts with the "as cast" surface to get a little shine on them. I ran into some "issues" though with not being able to buff the compound off effectively. Have ZERO polishing experience, I had to forum jump to the caswell site and ask for help. Here's the thread. The problem was determined to be due to the rough “as cast” surface finish. The compound would get into the pores. As you buffed, it would slowly pull the compound up out of the pores. This not only caused the problem with me not being able to buff it off BUT, it also created a cross contamination issue when going through the 3 different buffing compounds / buffing wheel combo. Not a good thing when polishing and fortunately, they were able to tell me what I needed to do to get my buffing wheels cleaned up. Since you use a different wheel for each compound, it's critical that you don't cross contaminate.

So here’s where the blessing vs. the curse come in. Being someone who has one set of standards (doing it RIGHT), I tackled the job of getting rid of the “pores” on the casting by sanding prior to buff. My thread at the caswell forum covers the sanding details. Needless to say, 4 hours later, I had a finished piece and p.s….I started at 9:00 pm, on a workday. Here’s the before and after.




[ATTACH]3670[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3674[/ATTACH]


The process was painfully slow due both to my inexperience and that fact that sanding was done without power tools. (Man, we’re spoiled!!). I just didn’t have the right equipment to use. What would have helped tremendously is a small jitterbug sander and a narrow ½” vertical belt sander although I don't know if I trust myself with power yet. Instead, I used a piece of 1"x4" mirror with the sandpaper wrapped around it so that I was sure the surface would be dead flat. Doing it with finger pressure would not have keep the surface flat and that would have definitely showed up on the final part (at least to my eyes it would…..real picky).

Anyway, I wanted to update you guys. Polishing has been an interesting learning process. Whoda thunk it would have been so techy. But then, ANYTHING gets techy when you get into the details. It’s kept me absorbed for several days, that’s why I’ve made so few posts in our forum. Been too busy!!

Here's my other before and after of the feed stop.



[ATTACH]3672[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3673[/ATTACH]

See ya.
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Mike
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

mickyd wrote:I don't know if locating the metal polishing information at the caswellplating.com website was a blessing or a curse. If you saw the thread that I started in this forum "Polishing Aluminum - How To Guide",it kicked out to Caswells metal finishing polishing guide pdf filethat they had on their website.

Anyway, I've begun doing the aluminum polishing on my '55 Greenie. My plans are to do these parts (possibly excluding the Sleeve and Insert Assemblies (part ref. 11, 22).


[ATTACH]3669[/ATTACH]

Initially, I thought that I would just buff the parts with the "as cast" surface to get a little shine on them. I ran into some "issues" though with not being able to buff the compound off effectively. Have ZERO polishing experience, I had to forum jump to the caswell site and ask for help. Here's the thread. The problem was determined to be due to the rough “as cast” surface finish. The compound would get into the pores. As you buffed, it would slowly pull the compound up out of the pores. This not only caused the problem with me not being able to buff it off BUT, it also created a cross contamination issue when going through the 3 different buffing compounds / buffing wheel combo. Not a good thing when polishing and fortunately, they were able to tell me what I needed to do to get my buffing wheels cleaned up. Since you use a different wheel for each compound, it's critical that you don't cross contaminate.

So here’s where the blessing vs. the curse come in. Being someone who has one set of standards (doing it RIGHT), I tackled the job of getting rid of the “pores” on the casting by sanding prior to buff. My thread at the caswell forum covers the sanding details. Needless to say, 4 hours later, I had a finished piece and p.s….I started at 9:00 pm, on a workday. Here’s the before and after.




[ATTACH]3670[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3674[/ATTACH]


The process was painfully slow due both to my inexperience and that fact that sanding was done without power tools. (Man, we’re spoiled!!). I just didn’t have the right equipment to use. What would have helped tremendously is a small jitterbug sander and a narrow ½” vertical belt sander although I don't know if I trust myself with power yet. Instead, I used a piece of 1"x4" mirror with the sandpaper wrapped around it so that I was sure the surface would be dead flat. Doing it with finger pressure would not have keep the surface flat and that would have definitely showed up on the final part (at least to my eyes it would…..real picky).

Anyway, I wanted to update you guys. Polishing has been an interesting learning process. Whoda thunk it would have been so techy. But then, ANYTHING gets techy when you get into the details. It’s kept me absorbed for several days, that’s why I’ve made so few posts in our forum. Been too busy!!

Here's my other before and after of the feed stop.



[ATTACH]3672[/ATTACH][ATTACH]3673[/ATTACH]

See ya.
If I send you MY parts, will you polish them FOR me?:D

GEEZ they look good!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

JPG40504 wrote:If I send you MY parts, will you polish them FOR me?:D

GEEZ they look good!

Sure will but.......go get your PM I just sent you.
Mike
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nuhobby
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Post by nuhobby »

Wow, almost starting to look like Billet+CNC'ed aluminum parts!
Chris
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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

nuhobby wrote:Wow, almost starting to look like Billet+CNC'ed aluminum parts!
Just wait till I get good at it! My then, I'll be done :( That's the problem with this kind of stuff. Just as you've completely honed the skills, your done with the project and by the time you do it again, you've lost the touch!!
Mike
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

mickyd wrote:Just wait till I get good at it! My then, I'll be done :( That's the problem with this kind of stuff. Just as you've completely honed the skills, your done with the project and by the time you do it again, you've lost the touch!!
I'd bet we can come up with enough parts for you to polish that you'd never again lose that keenly honed skill.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
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bucksaw
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Post by bucksaw »

I've been doing the same to the Greenies (currently 2) that I am restoring. A lot of work. I've heard you can use a sanding wheel to smooth the alum before buffing. I'm looking for one now. The polished look really adds to the overall impression of the restored Shopsmith. Well worth the effort in my opinion.
Dave - Idaho
Greenie S#261612 - Mar 1954 / Greenie S#305336 - Oct 1955 / Gray S#SS1360 - ?

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mickyd
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Post by mickyd »

bucksaw wrote:I've been doing the same to the Greenies (currently 2) that I am restoring. A lot of work. I've heard you can use a sanding wheel to smooth the alum before buffing. I'm looking for one now. The polished look really adds to the overall impression of the restored Shopsmith. Well worth the effort in my opinion.
Make sure to post pics bucksaw.

I am going to try a flap sanding wheel (80grit) on a dremel tool for the next piece. They sell for about $8. It seems like it will lend itself better to "feeling" and seeing what your doing. Read the thread on the other forum about "Polishing contoured surfaces" and see how the guy describes the "feel' in post #5.

When I get the flap wheel mastered, I'll graduate to the next level, working my way up the amperage chain. Pretty soon, 15 amp, 2-1/4 HP ANGLE GRINDER shaving off a few 1/10,000th of an inch with the precision of a surgeon...boy it'll be a thing of beauty!!
Mike
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etc92guy
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Post by etc92guy »

Geez....your putting me to shame. I used automotive chrome polish, buffed it with my dremel tool and called it good....

By the way, my 1956 greenie came with red handles, not black. In your first photo you show a black one. Is it a replacement?
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