A question for you pen turners

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

jm51 wrote:Could use the cnc to pocket the name into one side of the pen blank then either fill the pocket before turning or after.
Please 'translate'!:confused::)
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brick1
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Post by brick1 »

athomas01 wrote:Wait a sec... you guys are really making pens on your shopsmiths? Where can I see examples?... or how to's? Great gift idea!
this is the first set i've made. the penn state mandral works great! one is the new e-z grip parker gel pen and the other is the bullet pen, parker gel and the rifle clip.......

i'm making some more for christmas gifts......I use a machinist vise on the end table and the drill chuck to drill the blanks.

these were made from some spalted maple that has been died red......beautiful with the CA finish!!

enjoy your pen making!! bill


Brick1
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athomas01
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Post by athomas01 »

brick1 wrote:this is the first set i've made. the penn state mandral works great! one is the new e-z grip parker gel pen and the other is the bullet pen, parker gel and the rifle clip.......

i'm making some more for christmas gifts......I use a machinist vise on the end table and the drill chuck to drill the blanks.

these were made from some spalted maple that has been died red......beautiful with the CA finish!!

enjoy your pen making!! bill
Wow... you guys do nice work!
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jm51
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Post by jm51 »

JPG, I seem to have turned the cnc noun 'pocket' into a verb. Oops


iow, use the cnc to cut out the chosen name in the unturned blank and then fill the hole/pocket with composite before turning. I'd guess the lettering would come out different due to the curvature of the pen.
roy_okc
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Post by roy_okc »

jm51 wrote:Could use the cnc to pocket the name into one side of the pen blank then either fill the pocket before turning or after.
JM51,

If I'm understanding your question, CNC pocket the name on just one side of the blank while the stock is flat before turning, then no, that would not work well as it would appear deformed when turned.

In my CNC newb mind with zero rotary experience, the progression would be something like this to inlay with tinted epoxy, for example:
- Turn the pen blank, leave a bit oversized
- CNC the engraving on a horizontal rotary axis
- Fill engraving with colored epoxy
- Final turn down to remove excess epoxy and material to desired size
- Final sanding
- Apply finish

I suppose it might be possible to CNC on a rotary axis prior to turning, not sure if the engravings would catch especially while roughing.

Roy
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

roy_okc wrote:JM51,

If I'm understanding your question, CNC pocket the name on just one side of the blank while the stock is flat before turning, then no, that would not work well as it would appear deformed when turned.

In my CNC newb mind with zero rotary experience, the progression would be something like this to inlay with tinted epoxy, for example:
- Turn the pen blank, leave a bit oversized
- CNC the engraving on a horizontal rotary axis
- Fill engraving with colored epoxy
- Final turn down to remove excess epoxy and material to desired size
- Final sanding
- Apply finish

I suppose it might be possible to CNC on a rotary axis prior to turning, not sure if the engravings would catch especially while roughing.

Roy

Woodcraft(and I assume others) would laser engrave it using a rotary drive. That ensures correct placement and uniform depth. The one used locally has counter rotating drums with o-ring friction drive. Contoured barrel may cause problems.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
scollins
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Pen mandrel for SS

Post by scollins »

I haven't looked at PS mandrel, but you don't need a special mandrel for the SS. Mandrels get bent over time so everyone sells a replacement bar usually for less than $5. Chuck it up in the drill chuck and start turning. The kurled knobs are sold separately or you can use a regular nut (just not as nice to grip and tighten).
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