Value of Used Equipment

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Tue Jan 22, 2008 11:31 pm

You will want Power Tool Woodworking For Everyone, it will give you most of what you need for operation but not maintenance. There is a new DVD on maintenance that just came out, I don't have it yet but people that do like it.

solicitr · Post by **solicitr** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 12:25 am

Oh, man, it comes with the jointer too! You are one lucky SOB. For a box of portables? Try not to laugh out loud when you make the trade.

I'll tell you what: I have a spare manual (for the base Mark V, not the jointer or other SPTs). Email me your address and I'll send it to you.

There is very good maintenance info online, especially Nick Engler's videos archived at http://www.shopsmithacademy.com/Sawdust_Sessions.htm

matpoh · Post by **matpoh** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:17 pm

Update.....So while talking to a co-worker about this, he said his father-in-law has one and also wants to sell it. We called him and he has a 1980 he will sell for the lot of tools plus $150 in cash. He will also throw in a Craftsman bandsaw. Now I am conflicted on which may be the better option. Is it worth spending 150 to get a 1980 over a 1958?

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 6:38 pm

It's truly your call, Maybe you should buy both! I would prefer to have a Shopsmith Jointer rather than a Craftsman band saw. You might be able to get parts for the band saw, but I know you can get parts for the jointer!

They look like the same machines to me - at least at time of manufacture. Both machines are 500s. Have you seen and studied this page? It might help. Read it all the way to the bottom!
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/faq/markv.htm

Greenvilleguy · Post by **Greenvilleguy** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 7:59 pm

Wow! It looks like mine did before I upgraded it to a 520. Don't worry about the age. Properly maintained machines seem to last forever. I wish I could find a used 500 locally. I'd love to have a second one.

Randy · Post by **Randy** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 8:11 pm

If you have the room buy both. You can always clean the one you don't want up and sell it for a profit later. Sort the extra's, keep what you want and sell some of the extra's get back what you paid and maybe then some!

ldh · Post by **ldh** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:06 pm

As said, buy both and cut one in half and make a mini Mark V. Best power station to be had.
ldh

paulmcohen · Post by **paulmcohen** » Wed Jan 23, 2008 9:39 pm

matpoh wrote:Update.....So while talking to a co-worker about this, he said his father-in-law has one and also wants to sell it. We called him and he has a 1980 he will sell for the lot of tools plus $150 in cash. He will also throw in a Craftsman bandsaw. Now I am conflicted on which may be the better option. Is it worth spending 150 to get a 1980 over a 1958?

The age difference doesn't matter much, unless it has a lot less rust so you have less rework with the newer unit. I had/have a 1982 500 upgraded to a 520 and it is in as good condition today as the day I purchased it. In 1980 it had a 1 1/4 HP motor and the same 1 bearing quill but the newer drive system.

The 1958 units had a Gilmer Drive System (the inside of the top belt is like a tank track). These units were a single bearing spindle. 3/4 Hp motor was the standard.

I can't comment on the Gilmer system.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Thu Jan 24, 2008 5:47 pm

The major problem with the 50s Shopsmith Gilmer drives is that I have found no easy way to oil the sheaves. There are no oil holes in them and no access hole under the Logo cover. You have to pull the motor and speed control assembly to get to the sheaves which most owner don't do. I drill a 3" hole in the center of the Logo with a hole saw and drill oil holes in the sheaves to allow oiling of the sheaves. I replace the motor bearings at the same time.

The other problem I have encountered is the clutch that prevents the Gilmer belt from loosening its teeth if the quill hangs or stops. There is no way that the shopsmith owner can check if the clutch is working unless you have a unique method and equipment to check it. I find that 15-30 ft pds will cause a functional clutch to slip. If more torque is needed, then I rebuild the clutch. Due to age of the Shopsmith, the clutch discs and plates can stick together and are very difficult to separate when stuck.

I have mostly Gilmer drive Shopsmiths (MINIs & SHORTYs) with the oiling capability and functional clutch. They are much cheaper to buy than the Poly-V drive and 1 1/8 HP motor headstocks. I have not had any problems with these 3/4 HP headstocks as I use them for everything but sawing.

Bill Mayo http://www.billstoolz.com

paulmcohen wrote:The age difference doesn't matter much, unless it has a lot less rust so you have less rework with the newer unit. I had/have a 1982 500 upgraded to a 520 and it is in as good condition today as the day I purchased it. In 1980 it had a 1 1/4 HP motor and the same 1 bearing quill but the newer drive system.

The 1958 units had a Gilmer Drive System (the inside of the top belt is like a tank track). These units were a single bearing spindle. 3/4 Hp motor was the standard.

I can't comment on the Gilmer system.

kalynzoo · Post by **kalynzoo** » Fri Jan 25, 2008 1:16 am

I'd jump on it in a heartbeat. If nothing else, it would be great to have a second power unit so that you can maintain two setups during a project. I hate when I drop the drill press and find I forgot one hole.