Just ordered my PP upgrade DYI

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goldeneagle
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Just ordered my PP upgrade DYI

Post by goldeneagle »

I shouldn't have gone to the demo at Lowes. The PP is almost to smooth! My '91 510 upgraded to 520 vibrates at startup, blows the circuit breaker if I have the shop vac on, etc. Want to do a lot of turning, so the new speed range will be nice. Hope they have the over revving worked out. The best thing is, I can put in a security code so the wife won't be able to sell it when I'm out of town!!
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

goldeneagle wrote:I shouldn't have gone to the demo at Lowes. The PP is almost to smooth! My '91 510 upgraded to 520 vibrates at startup, blows the circuit breaker if I have the shop vac on, etc. Want to do a lot of turning, so the new speed range will be nice. Hope they have the over revving worked out. The best thing is, I can put in a security code so the wife won't be able to sell it when I'm out of town!!
Aah but she can still sell it]Same if using the Dust Collector rather than a ShopVac.[/SIZE]

I do no havet and have not had a vibration issue so I have no recommendation for that condition.

How old are the belts and are they in good condition?

Is the vibration continuous or does it quit when the Mark V reaches operating speed?
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wurlitzerwilly
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Post by wurlitzerwilly »

goldeneagle wrote:I shouldn't have gone to the demo at Lowes. The PP is almost too smooth! My '91 510 upgraded to 520 vibrates at startup, blows the circuit breaker if I have the shop vac on, etc. Want to do a lot of turning, so the new speed range will be nice. Hope they have the over revving worked out. The best thing is, I can put in a security code so the wife won't be able to sell it when I'm out of town!!

Having just completed the upgrade a week ago, I hope you will be happy with it.

I suggest viewing the DVD a couple of times right through, then start the conversion in conjunction with the manual.

Watch out for the belt tensions. They need to be very tight. Initially on mine, the shorter belt from the quill to the idler shaft was tight, but the motor mountings were not set the way they should have been, which resulted in the motor to idler belt being quite loose. I used the adjustments shown on the DVD but had to insert a large screwdriver between the motor mount and the headstock mount to increase the gap, because the mounting was binding on the adjustment screws. Once the belt started to become fairly tight, the adjustment screws worked the way they should.

I also got a bit worried because the long belt gets very hot, but I've been assured that's normal. Those belts also run hot on automobile engines.

I also noticed that there is a small speed variation when running at all speeds, but it's a very low percentage overall and certainly not the wild over-speed that others have reported.

I quite like the original power switch on the MkV, with it's removal actuator, but Shopsmith said that I should replace it with the new rocker switch they sent. As you say, at least you can enter a security code to prevent it being tampered with.

I've not used all of the accessories with the Power Pro yet and I hope that I won't get any vibration or banging that others have had. If I do, I guess I'll phone SS for support.

You'll probably find that your circuit breaker issues disappear, because there is no high start current, like there is with the original induction motor. You may have issues if you're using a GFI, but there's an extra instruction leaflet to cover that eventuality.

Good luck. Let us know how you get on.
Regards,

Alan.
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Post by JPG »

wurlitzerwilly wrote: . . . but there's an extra instruction leaflet to cover that eventuality.

Good luck. Let us know how you get on.
Could you share the contents of that leaflet? Please!
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E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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wurlitzerwilly
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Post by wurlitzerwilly »

JPG40504 wrote:Could you share the contents of that leaflet? Please!

Here's the exact wording (excuse spelling - theirs not mine):

Supplement on using a
Ground Fault Interuppter


When using your PowerPro with a GFIC plug, there are two options:

1. Remove the ground fault receptacle in the wall and replace it with a standard 15 Amp receptacle. Then install (or have an electrician install) a ground fault breaker in the breaker box. The breakers do not blow where the outlets trip when the PowerPro Headstock is plugged in and turned on.

Or,

2. He can plug the PowerPro into a non-GFIC Plug.

___________________________________________________________
877127 Rev A 12/10
Regards,

Alan.
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Can anyone explain why moving the GFI breaker upstream (to the breaker box) resolves this problem?
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wurlitzerwilly
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Post by wurlitzerwilly »

dusty wrote:Can anyone explain why moving the GFI breaker upstream (to the breaker box) resolves this problem?
One quote I heard is that Shopsmith say that the receptacle type are too sensitive to imbalances, whereas the panel type are not.

I don't believe that explanation. My theory is that what upsets the GFI is unbalanced pulses from the PowerPro at (probably) around 400Hz. These will circulate within the power cord. By installing the GFI in the panel, you are putting a lot of extra wire between the PowerPro and the breaker, which will give HF interference a chance to dissipate before it reaches the GFI.

There's a lot of AC power theory involved. ;)
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Alan.
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Post by charlese »

dusty wrote:Can anyone explain why moving the GFI breaker upstream (to the breaker box) resolves this problem?

Can't explain the "why", but I feel I have been instrumental in this solution. When I explained this problem to Wes, he replied he had not heard of this issue before because all of the GFCI breakers in their shop are breaker box located.

However, as posted earlier, when I replaced a GFCI outlet with a new "industrial rated" one I no longer had this problem. Have not yet told Wes of this.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

A few things!

Yes the gfci receptacles do tend to be overly sensitive.

Yes the panel mounted gfci breakers tend to be less prone to spurious tripping.

The separation from the 'offending device'(power pro) by several feet of wire adds inductance and diminishes the 'error' signal at the 'detector'(either type).

The panel mounted are less convenient if the panel is not close by.

I find it interesting that they concluded that since their panel mounted breakers did not 'trip' that the general public's would not either.

Cute alternative - do not use one!:rolleyes:
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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camerio
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Post by camerio »

goldeneagle wrote:I shouldn't have gone to the demo at Lowes. The PP is almost to smooth! My '91 510 upgraded to 520 vibrates at startup, blows the circuit breaker if I have the shop vac on, etc. Want to do a lot of turning, so the new speed range will be nice. Hope they have the over revving worked out. The best thing is, I can put in a security code so the wife won't be able to sell it when I'm out of town!!
Well, let us know when you receive it and how it goes when you finish the transition, I am very interested in hearing from you on this because I am also thinking of buying the upgrade, even if it is not offered by our canadian store selling shopsmith.
I may have to go and get it myself ...
Camerio
MarkV 520 & Band saw
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