How to create a bevel on a wide board

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wa2crk
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Post by wa2crk »

Don't forget to cut a saw kerf on the underside of the sill about one inch in toward the house. This will prevent water from migrating, due to surface tension, back against the house wall.
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

pennview wrote:If you look at the end grain and you see tiny holes in the wood, it's red oak. Those holes in white oak are filled. Here's a photo --
[ATTACH]14496[/ATTACH]
Then it must be white oak as there are no holes in it. I decided not to use the oak and picked up a 2 X 8 X 10 pressured treated plank to cut up and use for the sill plate. That will last forever.
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

There is more than one way to skin a cat (and just who is skinning all of these cats? :eek: )

You can make a cut on a tablesaw from each edge then finish with a handsaw letting the kerfs help guide the handsaw cut. Finish with a plane.

You can also make those same two first cuts then make shallow cuts of progressing depths like often done at the same depth to remove stock for tenon cutting etc. then break away the material left. Finish with a plane.

Yet another way is to make the sill out of narrower pieces which can be cut to a bevel using the tablesaw and then glue them together using a good marine glue. Finish with a plane.

You could also bevel it with an adz or hatchet. Finish with a plane.

Lastly, you might hire a trained beaver. Finish with a plane.
:)

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

robinson46176 wrote:There is more than one way to skin a cat (and just who is skinning all of these cats? :eek: )

You can make a cut on a tablesaw from each edge then finish with a handsaw letting the kerfs help guide the handsaw cut. Finish with a plane.

You can also make those same two first cuts then make shallow cuts of progressing depths like often done at the same depth to remove stock for tenon cutting etc. then break away the material left. Finish with a plane.

Yet another way is to make the sill out of narrower pieces which can be cut to a bevel using the tablesaw and then glue them together using a good marine glue. Finish with a plane.

You could also bevel it with an adz or hatchet. Finish with a plane.

Lastly, you might hire a trained beaver. Finish with a plane.
:)

.

Did ja notice he said to 'finish with a plane'?:cool:

Ya could just plane it down without rough cutting it first!;)
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jm51
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Post by jm51 »

Probably the worst way to do it but my first thought was to have the Shopsmith in drill press mode, tilt the table and use the 12" sander.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

jm51 wrote:Probably the worst way to do it but my first thought was to have the Shopsmith in drill press mode, tilt the table and use the 12" sander.
Conical would work 'better', but require staging(limited working surface width).

Hope ya gots a DC!:D
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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