Main shaft disassembled

[JPG]

Not too often we get to see a main shaft completely disassembled, so I took a pix.

[ATTACH]14518[/ATTACH]

The pulley sets in the middle between the snap rings and the bearings go on each end and are stopped/positioned by the rings.

[ATTACH]14519[/ATTACH]

Not easy to see, but notice the tapered flat on the aux shaft end is aligned with the flat for the poly-v pulley. The set screw should always align with the tapered shaft. If it doesn't it has drifted.

In this pix you can see that the pulley drifted in line with the shaft to the point of the set screw riding into the end of the flat. This caused a burr to form at the end of the flat and made removal from the shaft very difficult. I first tried pulling it off the non-splined end, but gave up on that after about 5/8 inch(it was waaaay to hard to remove).

[ATTACH]14520[/ATTACH]

Here you can see the reason it was waaay too hard to remove. The burr created at the end of the flat was gouging a groove into the inside surface of the pulley. It came off the opposite direction easier(sorta!). Lesson learned - if the pulley position has shifted(a look into the set screw hole will tell the tale or it is up against one of the rings) one must remove the pulley in the opposite direction(towards the splined end).

Notice in this pix also the dings created by the PO in removing the splined end bearing. This shaft was an e-bay acquisition and the bearing was separated when sold. I assume the PO did not have a bearing puller, and snarfed things a bit removing it. Correction:The dings were I now believe due to an unsuccessful attempt to remove the 'rear' bearing. The front bearing was removed, and I now believe the pulley was forced to slide on the shaft while removing the front bearing. Excessive force at that point probably also caused the retaining ring to be malformed.

I had to do quite a bit of filing and burnishing to get the pulley to fit onto the shaft properly(no dragging interfering points) and that removed much of the black oxide. Proper fit is more important here. I will probably apply a thin coat of penetrol when reassembling. It was also slightly rusted at the back end and that required burnishing it away(sandpaper and finger). Most of the pitting was to the pulley and very little on the shaft.

[ATTACH]14521[/ATTACH]

Finally the set screw was a serrated cup with a nylon plug. It will have blue locktite added when reassembled. One of the rings was deformed(as received) and will be replaced as well as the bearings.

[billmayo]

A quick check for both the Gilmer and Poly-V Drive Sleeve is to insure the set screw is still tight and aligned with the hub flat on the end of the Drive Sleeve shaft. Thw Drive Sleeve must be removed to be checked. If the Gilmer Drive set screw is not aligned to the flat, then I find the Gilmer clutch will need rebuilding and testing. If not aligned on the Poly-V Drive, then the pully may have been slipping on the shaft and can make removal of the pulley very difficult. I use Red LocTite (271) on the Drive Sleeve set screw. This is the only place where I actually over tighten the set screw by causing an "L" allen wrench (with small extension tube/bar) to flex. I always use a cup type set screw. This causes the set screw cup to indent into the hollow Drive Sleeve shaft.

The new replacement Poly-V Drive sleeve is a one-piece machined unit to prevent this problem.

[charlese]

Thanx for the thread and the pics, Red!:D

OK, I'm convinced that using locktite on all set screws is a very good practice. Maybe especially on a PowerPro.

Thanks again! Never before gave any thought to a set screw on the poly V pully:eek:

[nuhobby]

Thanx for the thread and the pics, Red!:D

OK, I'm convinced that using locktite on all set screws is a very good practice. Maybe especially on a PowerPro.

Thanks again! Never before gave any thought to a set screw on the poly V pully:eek:

Chuck, on the newer vintage part-sets including PowerPro kits, the Poly-V pulley is all one piece with no setscrew. (Same for the P-P's idler shaft.) The grooved part on newer units is aluminum (around a steel inner shaft). On JPG's tutorial, the grooved part is a removable steel piece.

[charlese]

Thanks, Chris! .

[dusty]

Chuck, on the newer vintage part-sets including PowerPro kits, the Poly-V pulley is all one piece with no setscrew. (Same for the P-P's idler shaft.) The grooved part on newer units is aluminum (around a steel inner shaft). On JPG's tutorial, the grooved part is a removable steel piece.

New Idler Shaft design:

[ATTACH]14537[/ATTACH]

The bearings are removable (replaceable). This was not possible on the old idler shaft design.

Note: This shaft is not from a PowerPro. The PowerPro shaft may be different (I know it is longer).

PS: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/cata ... r_note.htm

[wa2crk]

JPG
I am intrigued by the grooves in the set screw flat on your shaft. It seems that the grooves were caused by the teeth of the setscrew as the pully moved toward the non splined section of the shaft. It would take a lot force to pull the pully and the set screw along the flat and leave those grooves. Are you sure that the PO did not try to remove the pully not realizing that there was a set screw holding it in place?
Also possible that the PO may have tried to remove the bearing and the pully in one step and buggered the flat and put the notch in end of the set screw flat. Just my two centavos worth.
Bill V

[JPG]

JPG
I am intrigued by the grooves in the set screw flat on your shaft. It seems that the grooves were caused by the teeth of the setscrew as the pully moved toward the non splined section of the shaft. It would take a lot force to pull the pully and the set screw along the flat and leave those grooves. Are you sure that the PO did not try to remove the pully not realizing that there was a set screw holding it in place?
Also possible that the PO may have tried to remove the bearing and the pully in one step and buggered the flat and put the notch in end of the set screw flat. Just my two centavos worth.
Bill V

Possible? Of course. Anything is likely to have happened due to any effort by the PO. IKt is interesting that one of the bearings was 'removed'. When it arrived, that loose bearing was pushed crooked on the opposite end(next to the other bearing.

BTW I mis-spoke. The bearing removed was from the spline end, so those marks on the pulley were probably due to trying to remove the rear bearing, and the displacement of the pulley may indeed be due to movement caused by removal of the front bearing!

[isobrownmk5]

changing ball bearings due to lube issues; one appears not packed. removed the bearings, removed shielding to find lube stuck to shield not on bearing surface. that's why bearing spins freely and grinds... new bearings ordered to clear issues... note: shielding prevents contaminates entry but hides evidence of lube failure...
more bearing issues, need source for control sheave bearing (Japan 635Z IJK)

[billmayo]

[quote="isobrownmk5"]changing ball bearings due to lube issues]

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