Don't drop your main table

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 6:50 pm

jm51 wrote:Both the tie bar and the 2 tubes are numbered 163. Does this mean that they are not supposed to come apart?

http://www.shopsmith.net/forums/showthr ... +table+leg

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Wed Oct 19, 2011 7:26 pm

jm51 wrote:Both the tie bar and the 2 tubes are numbered 163. Does this mean that they are not supposed to come apart?

I don't believe that it was ever intended that they be pulled apart but they can be. The tubes are each held in place by a tapered pin (about 1/4"). It can be driven out with a ball peen hammer and a pin punch. It might be better (more professional) if you could press them out.

I took two of them out and rotated them 180° and put them back. Having done that, I now have a table that works for a left tilt.

If you buy a left tilt kit from Shopsmith, you get new tubes and new pins to secure them with.

tdubnik · Post by **tdubnik** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:29 am

Yesterday, I put the tie bar back together using JB Weld. Held it in place with clamps and put a heat lamp on it over night. This morning it seems stable and seems to hold together. It fits the carriage well.

This was my first time using JB Weld so I have no idea what to expect. Do you think it will hold together under use or not?

[ATTACH]14522[/ATTACH]

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 6:56 am

JBWeld is some great stuff, but if it fails while you're sawing something, you may be in for a big surprise.

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:08 am

tdubnik wrote:Yesterday, I put the tie bar back together using JB Weld. Held it in place with clamps and put a heat lamp on it over night. This morning it seems stable and seems to hold together. It fits the carriage well.

This was my first time using JB Weld so I have no idea what to expect. Do you think it will hold together under use or not?

It might.... I've been running a homemade "Sand Flee" for 3 years. This was made of a 500-style tie-bar cut down in length so that the 2 downtubes fit in the end-casting of the Mark V. I used J-B Weld to put it back together. I think the main saving virtue is the 2 downtubes being secured in a mounting at all times.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 8:29 am

tdubnik wrote:Yesterday, I put the tie bar back together using JB Weld. Held it in place with clamps and put a heat lamp on it over night. This morning it seems stable and seems to hold together. It fits the carriage well.

This was my first time using JB Weld so I have no idea what to expect. Do you think it will hold together under use or not?

[ATTACH]14522[/ATTACH]

The tie bar is really just a spacer that holds the trunnions apart a fixed distance. The most stress will be applied whenever you are changing the table tilt (twisting forces on the tie bar).

I would rough up the area surrounding the crack and build up the tie bar with a second application of JBWeld. I have a cracked Headrest (517768) that I have repaired using a buildup of JBWeld. It has survived for a year or so now. I purchased an ebay special to have on hand just in case but it seems that I may never need it.

Remember, JBWeld can be worked with a file and sandpaper if appearance matters.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:15 pm

Not much material to work with, but I would be inclined to add brackets to keep it from flying apart if the jbweld fails.

Maybe as Dusty has suggested a significant build up will be enough.

The backside must be kept clear of the trunion clamp rod.

In any event, I would not proceed with it as is.

jcraigie · Post by **jcraigie** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:53 pm

I agree build it up a little bit. It looks like you were a little "stingy" on the JB Weld when you put it together, I don't see much squeeze out.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 12:55 pm

If you can align them that well I would take them to my friendly neighbor hood welder and let him braze or weld them permanent.

Most shops I know of would probably do it for free but I would slip the guy a $20 and live happily ever after.

But even if the welder thinks he has to so something special like preheating the material or putting in a rebar, I can't imagine the price getting higher than $60 and you still are $90 ahead of the buying new.

Be friendly ask for his advice and tell him how much you would appreciate his help. These guys are human and most are more than glad to help.

If you do have it welded take you main table to get all the proper alignment.

Again show yourself friendly, humble and looking for this guy's expertise. How you approach the guy will influence the price greatly.

What ever you do make sure you pay the guy liberally you may have to go back to have something else welded and they do remember people.

tdubnik · Post by **tdubnik** » Thu Oct 20, 2011 3:22 pm

jcraigie wrote:I agree build it up a little bit. It looks like you were a little "stingy" on the JB Weld when you put it together, I don't see much squeeze out.

There was more squeeze out but I wiped it off while it was wet. From what I can tell the bond seems pretty strong. I pulled apart the legs while the table was still off and I didn't break it. I didn't use all my strength but I gave it a good healthy pull and it held.

I have had several offers from members on this board for a replacement so I have a backup plan if needed.

Thanks for all of the advice and comments.

If anything strange happens I'll keep you posted.