Jigsaw lubrication

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esimkins
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Location: Temecula CA

Jigsaw lubrication

Post by esimkins »

I am looking for information on how to lubricate my jigsaw. I don't have a manual, but looks simple enough. Looks like the one below here: http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/faq/jigsaw.htm. This jigsaw looks like it hasn't been used for the last ten years or so. I have lubed the top spring loaded shaft and cleaned the dust and sawdust out of the bottom part that clamps onto the blade. Now it works great, but serial shows it is a 1959 model, so I would like to know it is getting the proper lubrication before continuing to use it.

I have opened up the cover below and above the blade, but that didn't tell me what to oil it with? Maybe a spray on oil?

Anyone know what Shopsmith recommends?

Thank you,

Eric
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

The manual says "Use a good quality, light 10W machine oil, such as sewing machine oil. You can purchase this oil at most hardware stores, sewing centers, or automotive stores. Avoid penetrating oils and oils with detergent additive."

That being said, I know of folks that have used a non-detergent 20W and 30W oil down here in SoCal.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
solicitr
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Post by solicitr »

The most inportant part is to lubricate the crankcase. The oil probably should be changed at that age. Take off the serial number plate und you'll see a large slothead screw. Find a small container, remove the screw, and lay the whole unit over on its side so as to drain the oil. Now set it up level (on the mounting is fine), and fill up the reservoir until the oil is flush with the bottom of the hole. Reassemble.

Also lube the airpump seal: take off the top cover and put just a couple of drops on the inside of the hoolw shaft.
Bill
Richmond, Virginia
esimkins
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Location: Temecula CA

Post by esimkins »

Thank you Rob, I should be able to locate the oil, I will try at ACE first. Now how about where to lube it? Should I just open the door at the bottom of the unit and squirt some in and around? And the top? Just open it up and squirt some down into the hole that holds the spring? Or just lube the shaft part that holds the top of the blade?

I am also in SoCal, but would think the 10W should be better than the other weights.

Is that Mini Mark the one in your picture? Did you make that? or did they sell something like that?

Thanks again,

Eric
esimkins
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Post by esimkins »

solicitr wrote:The most inportant part is to lubricate the crankcase. The oil probably should be changed at that age. Take off the serial number plate und you'll see a large slothead screw. Find a small container, remove the screw, and lay the whole unit over on its side so as to drain the oil. Now set it up level (on the mounting is fine), and fill up the reservoir until the oil is flush with the bottom of the hole. Reassemble.

Also lube the airpump seal: take off the top cover and put just a couple of drops on the inside of the hoolw shaft.

Thank you Bill, I should have waited on my second question, you have just answered it. I had only peeked into the top and bottom, I hadn't looked behind the serial plate, I will have to give that a try. I would have thought the crankcase was behind the plate with the "M" in the front. Inside there looks like the crankcase of a car engine, and it was dry, very clean, but dry or at least clean with no oil.

Thanks both Rob and Bill, I will let you know what I find in the next day or two.

Eric
solicitr
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Post by solicitr »

esimkins wrote:I would have thought the crankcase was behind the plate with the "M" in the front. Inside there looks like the crankcase of a car engine, and it was dry, very clean, but dry or at least clean with no oil.


Eric
Yep, the crankcase is behind the M plate- but you don't want to remove that to fill it any more than you want to drop your car's oil pan to change the oil!
Bill
Richmond, Virginia
rcoder
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Jig saw lube

Post by rcoder »

I have used transmission fluid in mine for years. Works great. Be sure to clear the air hole with a fine wire. That lets the air pressure equalize with each revolution. It helps keep the oil in the crankcase.

Bob
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SDSSmith
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Post by SDSSmith »

esimkins wrote:Is that Mini Mark the one in your picture? Did you make that? or did they sell something like that?

That is a Mini that I made.....works great as a power station. Take care and good luck with that jigsaw.
Rob in San Diego
Email: SDSSmith51 AT gmail.com
esimkins
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Location: Temecula CA

Post by esimkins »

solicitr wrote:Yep, the crankcase is behind the M plate- but you don't want to remove that to fill it any more than you want to drop your car's oil pan to change the oil!
Well, then I better get it filled up, maybe replace the seal, because I opened it up and it was clean not even old residue in there, just as clean as anything. Maybe it slowly leaked out over the years as it sat? Good thing you let me know before i burned it up.

I think I should get a manual before I burn something else up...

Thanks again,

Eric
mtobey
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Post by mtobey »

I am really confused. When I removed the plate on my jigsaw, there was no oil at all. I did not see this screw plug that all have been mentioning. So I just filled the cavity 60% full with 10 weight lathe spindle oil. I have not run it long but it sounded happy. Can someone link me to a photo that shows this filler plug behind the trademark plate? Thanks, MT
1983 Mark V- beltsander, jigsaw, Stripsander,jointer, bandsaw-double carriage and tables with molders and drums, Over Arm Pin Routers(Freestanding x 2)Second Mark V.:D
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