Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.
beeg wrote:But Farmer what wood you use, power tools or hand tools to cut em.
Based on previous posts I've seen from farmer...
lets's see the foley belsaw planer perhaps the saw mill? and if hand tools are called for, his precision instrument of choice...
A hatchet..(Which incidentally does work very well at creating shims/wedges especially in soft woods with straight grain. Especially a roofing hatchet!)
Just kidding farmer. I agree completely. Why buy anything you can make yourself cheaper or better??
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Terry
Copy and paste the URLs into your browser if you want to see the photos.
1955 Shopsmith Mark 5 S/N 296860 Workshop and Tools
https://1drv.ms/i/s!AmpX5k8IhN7ahFCo9VvTDsCpoV_g
With a riving knife or splitter or such on a table saw, can't say that I've had much trouble with wood closing the kerf so tightly that it gets into blade bind problems.
Somehow the hand held circular saw seems to inspire many boards to close their kirf, right on the blade. In those cases, I do let go of the trigger, wedge the wood, and re-drop the blade into the cut.
I did something similar to the tapered shims, and merley "dropped" them into the kerf without stopping the saw or moving anything else (while pausing the feed, of course). The taper doesn't have to be pushed into the kerf. It can only get tighter (good) not looser anaway, by gravity and vibration.
So when the cut is done all that stuff falls on the floor. So what? I close down the Observation Deck when doing these things...
Mark V 520, Power-Pro!; Speed Reducer; B/S; Jointer; ShopMate DCS; SS Tenon Master; Rip-Strate; Incra; BCTW; DW734; var. SS sanding systems; Wood River;
