Why Bandsaw cutting an angle?

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wdelliott
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Why Bandsaw cutting an angle?

Post by wdelliott »

Looking for a solution to a problem. Bandsaw not cutting straight. I have gone through just about every possible cause:
1. New blade
2. Blade at 90 degree when machine turned off
3. Tires do not seem worn
4. Blocks set correctly I think

Yet, blade cuts at about 7% off the line.

Open to suggestions.
Wm. D. Elliott
Dallas, TX

1972 Model 500; upgraded to Model 7; bandsaw; belt sander; joiner; planer pro; power stand; OPR; Biscuit joiner; router tables
BigSky
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Post by BigSky »

wdelliott wrote:Looking for a solution to a problem. Bandsaw not cutting straight. I have gone through just about every possible cause:
1. New blade
2. Blade at 90 degree when machine turned off
3. Tires do not seem worn
4. Blocks set correctly I think

Yet, blade cuts at about 7% off the line.

Open to suggestions.
Are you attempting to rip something using the fence or are you free handing a cut.

You say the cut is 7% off the line - off what line.
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

What size blade and what wood ya trying to cut? What feed rate ya using?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

May be blade drift, but proper blade/guide alignment will minimize it.

Does 7% 'mean' 7° ?

I will add a link to an alignment thread as soon as I locate it. https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=8542
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
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wdelliott
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Further information on blade drift

Post by wdelliott »

Good questions:
1. 7 degrees off of a center line.
2. Trying to cut block of oak, 3 x 3 x 5 inches to prepare for chisel handle.
3. No fence. Cutting to marked line.

Thanks.
Wm. D. Elliott
Dallas, TX

1972 Model 500; upgraded to Model 7; bandsaw; belt sander; joiner; planer pro; power stand; OPR; Biscuit joiner; router tables
wdelliott
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Joined: Mon Nov 27, 2006 5:46 pm
Location: Dallas, TX

also

Post by wdelliott »

I'm using a new 5/16 blade.
Wm. D. Elliott
Dallas, TX

1972 Model 500; upgraded to Model 7; bandsaw; belt sander; joiner; planer pro; power stand; OPR; Biscuit joiner; router tables
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beeg
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Post by beeg »

wdelliott wrote:I'm using a new 5/16 blade.
Try a 1/2 blade.
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

beeg wrote:Try a 1/2 blade.
Or a 5/8" 'woodslicer'.
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

I am assuming that the blade is not vertical throughout the cut. That is, it does not make a cut that is 90° to the top surface of the board.

If this is the case, have you checked the tension? and the table for flatness and squareness to the blade in all directions.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

At the risk of asking the 'obvious', are the blade guides below the table adjusted properly? Do both the upper and lower blade guides merely prevent the blade from deviating from a straight path, or do they
force
it to so deviate?
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╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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