lubricating the sheaves

woodhobbyist · Post by **woodhobbyist** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 9:46 am

I am not sure what I'm doing wrong. I bought a old Shopsmith and I love it. I am 95% sure it is a Mark 5. It is really old but in great shape. The chanenge is the maintenance guide tells me to remove the name plate to get to the access hole so I can lubricate the sheaves. There is NO ACCESS hole behind the name plate. So how do I get to the parts with out completly taking the entire motor apart?

Thank you for reading this and if you have any thoughts please let me know.

Woodhobbyist

wannabewoodworker · Post by **wannabewoodworker** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 9:59 am

That is an old model I think they call it an "A" casting. Anyway as far as I know the only way to get in there without the hole is to lower the motor pan and go up from the bottom side to perform maintenance. But the more experienced folks here can correct me if I am mistaken. I also have read about guy's cutting an access hole in their older castings.

woodhobbyist · Post by **woodhobbyist** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 11:13 am

Thank you for info. I think you are right. I cant think of any way to get up there with out lowering the motor.

How often do you lub the parts in your shopsmith?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 2:04 pm

woodhobbyist wrote:Thank you for info. I think you are right. I cant think of any way to get up there with out lowering the motor.

How often do you lub the parts in your shopsmith?

Yup, lower the motor, disconnect the wires and go to drill press mode. You can see and reach everything. I do this, even though I have a later model with an access port. It allows for better cleaning, more thorough lubrication and an excellent visual inspection.

You might want to consider creating an access hole; I know others have done that.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 4:32 pm

Annnnd IF the control sheave is an original of the same vintage, it may not have an oil hole either!!!!!:(

Tis highly recommended to take it out and add that hole. Without it the oil must be applied to the key and by magic incantation cause it to flow into the 'snout'. This works better if the idler shaft is vertical.

The dropping of the motor can be made easier by after raising to vertical, insert the work table in from the bottom of the carriage thus creating a shelf onto which the heavy motor and pan can be lowered onto.

Probably need to check for the presence on an oil hole in the floating sheave snout also. Less necessary since the keyway is more acccessible on the motor shaft.

woodhobbyist · Post by **woodhobbyist** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:00 am

This is all great information I need to take care of my shopsmith. I thank you all for taking the time to share your talent.

Woodhobbyist

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 11:04 am

woodhobbyist wrote:This is all great information I need to take care of my shopsmith. I thank you all for taking the time to share your talent.

Woodhobbyist

I just realized we did not answer one question. Oil every 10 hrs of running time. a couple of drops to the motor shaft sheave, and 5-6 to the idler shaft sheave.

Truth be known, that insures a very long life. Many have not been so lucky and survived a long time. Those that receive no lubrication eventually break down and require parts replacement.

The control sheave is on the most needed parts list(hint hint hint:D). Tis also the only mechanical part replaced in my almost half century old goldie.

littlejohnnc · Post by **littlejohnnc** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 8:14 pm

What kind of oil do you recommend? I been using 3 in one oil.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 9:24 pm

littlejohnnc wrote:What kind of oil do you recommend? I been using 3 in one oil.

Good choice. 'Light' machine oil(#10). Also sewing machine oil, electric motor oil, turbine oil are all the same(or very nearly so).

A 'zoom spout' oiler makes the task easier.

Only 'issue' I have with 3in1 is the scent.

littlejohnnc · Post by **littlejohnnc** » Mon Nov 21, 2011 10:31 pm

Thanks JPG !!