Power Pro Upgrade

michae4716 · Post by **michae4716** » Mon Oct 24, 2011 9:23 am

The Shopsmith DVD is a type DVD-R which only play in computer drives. Media players use DVD+R discs and are incompatible one with the other.

camerio · Post by **camerio** » Mon Oct 24, 2011 11:44 am

michae4716 wrote:The Shopsmith DVD is a type DVD-R which only play in computer drives. Media players use DVD+R discs and are incompatible one with the other.

I use DVD-R to make copies for my clients of their production and they play very well on any dvd player. The problem is not with the - or +R, it is the way the copy is made it must NOT be VR mode or VRM, but only in VIDEO mode. There is also the region that de dvd was made for, and NTSC vs PAL ...
The one that only computers can read are DVD-Ram (same support but made on a computer for data storage).
Then there is you dvd player, when you buy, you have to make sure that you are buying a player that can read all those formats and all the different dvd's except for data which can only be read by computers.
Just go on google and type ¨dvd-r or dvd+r" and you will get more detail article on the subject.

wallpaperman · Post by **wallpaperman** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 3:35 pm

Well after replacing my 520 head with the new Power Pro head, I have made note the to upper drive hub gets hot to the touch on a scale of 1-5 1cold & 5 hot It is a 2/3 has anyone else had this happen or did the 520 do the same?
Thanks:

wurlitzerwilly · Post by **wurlitzerwilly** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 3:43 pm

wallpaperman wrote:Well after replacing my 520 head with the new Power Pro head, I have made note the to upper drive hub gets hot to the touch on a scale of 1-5 1cold & 5 hot It is a 2/3 has anyone else had this happen or did the 520 do the same?
Thanks:

The old 520 did not do this, but it's fairly usual with the Power Pro.
The belts get very hot, which is normal and the heat transfers to the shafts.

jcraigie · Post by **jcraigie** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:09 pm

I'm going to go off topic a little here, sorry. One of the things I like about the ShopSmith is that I can fix anything in it. With the PowerPro there seems to be more places for things to go wrong that I can't fix easily. I understand the major advantages of the PowerPro with slower speed, faster speed, and suposedly smoother running but here is my question.

Can someone tell me what makes it so much better that your willing to give up the ability to do all repairs your self and rely on the electronics to work for 50+ years ( I just don't see it). In this day and age of everything being disposable I like that my old ShopSmith is as good as new and not about to be thrown away as soon as it breaks.

Don't think for a minute I'm bashing the PowerPro at all, I'm not. I just don't get it. Whats the advantage that makes up for what to me seems liek a disadvantage.

nuhobby · Post by **nuhobby** » Sun Oct 30, 2011 8:56 pm

I've been working with electronics for decades, so I know things can last a long time with good care. My guess is the worst thing that could happen for repair-ability for the PowerPro would be a whole new design (which obsoletes the present one), but that new design would still fit in the same headstock packaging.

Business-wise I think Shopsmith could not survive with the same Reeves Drive 1950s design marketed perpetually. There's just too many folks who can out-do them in the used market for low-cost repairs and parts.

In my particular scenario I like the Power Pro. I have my small indoor basement shop and it's a good fit. If I turn a wood pen, my wife doesn't even hear me working from upstairs. She now works from the house-office a lot and really doesn't like loud noises.

I'm not one to always buy cutting-edge offerings. Most of the time I don't buy them and I resent the technology being obsoleted fast. But here's one area where I did, and I've enjoyed it.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Mon Oct 31, 2011 2:28 am

jcraigie wrote:I'm going to go off topic a little here, sorry. One of the things I like about the ShopSmith is that I can fix anything in it. With the PowerPro there seems to be more places for things to go wrong that I can't fix easily. I understand the major advantages of the PowerPro with slower speed, faster speed, and suposedly smoother running but here is my question.

Can someone tell me what makes it so much better that your willing to give up the ability to do all repairs your self and rely on the electronics to work for 50+ years ( I just don't see it). In this day and age of everything being disposable I like that my old ShopSmith is as good as new and not about to be thrown away as soon as it breaks.

Don't think for a minute I'm bashing the PowerPro at all, I'm not. I just don't get it. Whats the advantage that makes up for what to me seems liek a disadvantage.

That is a reason to go the diy route(you still have ALL the older parts as a backup).

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Mon Oct 31, 2011 2:44 am

jcraigie wrote:...
Can someone tell me what makes it so much better that your willing to give up the ability to do all repairs your self and rely on the electronics to work for 50+ years ( I just don't see it). In this day and age of everything being disposable I like that my old ShopSmith is as good as new and not about to be thrown away as soon as it breaks..

I don't think I am giving up anything with my PowerPro. Yes, although I enjoyed the repeated 10 hour maintenance of my old headstock, I am glad to have now avoided that scenario. No longer have the belt worry, no longer have to check for speed control issues. No longer have to clean out the black sludge coming from the drive belt and clings to the inside walls of the headstock case. Just turn it on and use it!!!!

That said, I still have all of the internal parts of my old headstock in a cardboard box and know if my PowerPro ever gives up I can easily change back to the basic MarkV. At my age, I don't think the PP will have to last 50 years for my needs. Anyone inheriting my shop will have the opportunity to do whatever they think will work best for them.

I really enjoy the quieter performance of the new headstock and also the quick selection of speeds and the reverse function.

For example; Just the other day, rather than setting up my router, I used the vertical drill press position and 1/4" router chuck, with bit, to make two keyhole slots is a wall hanging quilt holder. This operation took only as much time as setting up any drilling operation. Used 10,000 RPM and moved the table with the workpiece clamped against the rip fence.

k8tp · Post by **k8tp** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:12 pm

I'd like to know if others have noticed a difference in appearance between their old and replacement quills. My original two-bearing quill has only radial machining marks, yet the one that came with the PowerPro has those plus thousands of tiny pits and nicks. It's still smooth enough to retract properly; it just doesn't look as nice.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Nov 20, 2011 7:19 pm

[quote="k8tp"]I'd like to know if others have noticed a difference in appearance between their old and replacement quills. My original two-bearing quill has only radial machining marks, yet the one that came with the PowerPro has those plus thousands of tiny pits and nicks. It's still smooth enough to retract properly]
FWIW, my 2 bearing upgrade quill has what at first appear to be wear marks, but are actually surface 'imperfections' of unknown source or reason.

Purchased new from SS about 2-3 years ago.

Shopsmith Forums

Power Pro Upgrade

DVD types

Quill machining