Why Bandsaw cutting an angle?

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

baysidebob wrote:Why is it that I feel like I have taken a lashing? Guess what I stated as reading in an article didn't fall into the general consenus that maybe something a bit different might work better for some of us.
I also was at the Woodworking Show in Sacramento and sat in on a demo by the same Alex Snodgrass, who was demoing Carter Products. The man, in my opinion know as lot about bandsaws. A whole lot more than myself.
In the future I will keep my ideas and opinions to myself. Sorry to have bothered you all, I thought most of you were more open minded than this. have a good day.........



No tongue lashing intended towards you! Please do not take it as such!!!!

The point was, a lot of the 'advice' re bandsaws out and about is not applicable to the ss bandsaw.

Also blade drift is a very commonly experienced issue.

If my frustration at well intentioned but irrelevant advice shows, I am sorry, but it shows naturally and honestly.

I consider myself(as well as many others who frequent here) to be 'open-minded', but, the proof is in the details. Mere so%so said so with no substantive backing up just is not enough to alter my mindset. It will however cause an additional 'look'. Just the facts sir, just the facts.:cool:

Sorry I jumped on your post. It was not the poster I responded to, but the content of the information being generously and openly shared by you. My lack of bashfulness(and tact) gets me in trouble often. But be assured you will always know where I stand!;) (Unless you see one of these:D:rolleyes:)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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reible
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Post by reible »

I guess I never give drift much of a thought. I don't have a fence or either my "other" bandsaw or for my Shopsmith. Some where on the forum I posted a picture of the resawing jig I use, it is just a rounded end with provisions for clamping, the idea is that the pivot point sets the thickness and a line on top of the work piece is where the cut should be. Feed and pivot as needed.

I have on several occasions rigged a fence but found different pieces depending on grain or knots or what ever seems to mess with the alignment/drift and changing to different woods does the same thing. Anyway I've never had very good luck with a fence.

I don't have much time on the shopsmith but the other machine I've had since the early 70's and it is equipped with the Carter guides and for resawing I have the wood slicer blade.

I'm looking forward to trying my modified cast iron top shopsmith on some projects next spring. I may have a different opinion then.

BTW I like timber wolf blades and have a pair that arrived a few days ago. I didn't shop around for other blades because I wanted what I wanted. They were not cheap but then again they were not bad either. The 1/8" 14tpi was $17.50 and the 1/4" 6tpi was $16.45.

You get milled teeth, induction hardened, low tension, true tracking, thin kerf blades. To read more go to:

www.pswood.com

I tried them, liked them, going to stick with them at least for now. For resawing I still like the wood slicer but to be honest I have never tried the timber wolf version. For green wood cutting I like the one from Highland Hardware...
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

fjimp wrote:I am sorry you feel insulted. I am pleased you shared your opinions and hope you will continue to do so. I can understand your feelings. In one of my earliest posts I shared an idea and was soundly deflated by a couple of our members. I went for a long time afraid to post my project pictures. Then one day a member referred to my very first project post as one of the best of its type he had come across. I don't really believe anyone was attempting to insult you or the info you so capably presented. Keep up the good work. Fjimp

I do not recall the 'project', but there are some of us that are quick(maybe too quick) to exercise good natured (but sometimes negative) humor in our posts.

I hope I do not cause any reluctance to respond by you or anyone else.

I recall a certain picture that was posted that was represented as me applying a certain process. I considered it hilarious! With a different mindset, I could easily see anyone similarly depicted feeling insulted. Point is no insult was intended(at least I do not think so!:eek:) and none was taken. Even if one was intended, I still think it funny!
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
charlese
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Post by charlese »

reible wrote:I guess I never give drift much of a thought. I don't have a fence or either my "other" bandsaw or for my Shopsmith. Some where on the forum I posted a picture of the resawing jig I use, it is just a rounded end with provisions for clamping, the idea is that the pivot point sets the thickness and a line on top of the work piece is where the cut should be. Feed and pivot as needed.

...

Here's mine (for the 4th or 5th posting, I think:o ) If I ever make a new one it will be more pointed. In my reading - many professionals use a single point fence for re-sawing. This one works for me - I'm no Pro!

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beeg
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Post by beeg »

Last time I bought Timber Wolf blades I bought em here.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/swedish-silicon-steel-prices/
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
.
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Bob
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reible
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Post by reible »

I like the background on their page! I'll bookmark the page for in the spring when I want to get a few more blades. Of course I'll have to check prices again and shipping/handling charges.

To bad a bunch of us couldn't place an order for say 30 blades and getting the savings of 30% off price.

Thanks for sharing.

Ed


beeg wrote:Last time I bought Timber Wolf blades I bought em here.

http://www.suffolkmachinery.com/swedish-silicon-steel-prices/
{Knight of the Shopsmith} [Hero's don't wear capes, they wear dog tags]
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jcraigie
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Post by jcraigie »

reible wrote: To bad a bunch of us couldn't place an order for say 30 blades and getting the savings of 30% off price.
I also buy my blades from here, who says we can't do so. If anyone wants to set up a group buy let me know I'll go in on it for a couple.
1984 Mark V 500 and an early 1954 greenie. jointer, belt sander, bandsaw, jigsaw, planner.

Jeff
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

Sorry for anything I posted that was offensive to you, baysidebob. Please do not keep your opinions to yourself.
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pennview
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Post by pennview »

Baysidebob, if apologies are in order here's another one, but please remember that some so-called experts just want to sell things to you kind of like a used car salesman. And I wish you luck in finding band saw blades that don't exhibit drift, but as you can see from an earlier post that there are $30 blades that you can buy that are of high quality but still exhibit drift, as in the Wood Slicer blades by Highland Hardware, and their video on the subject of using their blades acknowledges this issue.

Also, open mindedness is a two way street.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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