Hello:
I'm a real newbie and I need to flatten/level a large butcher block table top (30" by 60") for my wife's Christmas present. Is there any way to do this with a Mk V?
I was thinking of getting a SS belt sander and trying to align it with the table extensions (kind of like a jointer set up). Is there a way to make this work?
Is there a better option I haven't considered?
Thanks,
Mike
How to flatten a large butcher block table top?
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Bear122959
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- Location: Las Cruces, NM
How thick is the top? Ya have a #6 plane?
SS 500(09/1980), DC3300, jointer, bandsaw, belt sander, Strip Sander, drum sanders,molder, dado, biscuit joiner, universal lathe tool rest, Oneway talon chuck, router bits & chucks and a De Walt 735 planer,a #5,#6, block planes. ALL in a 100 square foot shop.
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Bob
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Bob
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derekdarling
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Router Sled
... AND HERE'S A LINK TO A PICTURE! http://www.dans-hobbies.com/tag/router-sled/mgdesigns wrote:Make a router sled.
Derek
Derek Darling
Surrey, B.C. Canada
10ERs, other stuff, you know.
Surrey, B.C. Canada
10ERs, other stuff, you know.
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Bear122959
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- Location: Las Cruces, NM
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dusty
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[quote="Bear122959"]The top is going to be about 2 1/2" thick end grain.
I have a low angle block plane]
I admire you for what you are trying to do
A bench plane would do the job but only if you really know how to use a bench plane and you have a good sharp blade. Planing end grain (successfully) is not an easy task.
Using a belt sander could also work but if I was going to go at this with a belt sander it would be a portable and not the Shopsmith Belt Sander. The platen on the Shopsmith Belt Sander is not long enough for your project. If you use a belt sander (portable or otherwise) be careful. You can create a gouge in your work with a belt sander just about that quick.
Just how uneven is the surface area of the work piece. If it is not real bad (a lot of wood to be removed), you could do this with a block of wood wrapped with sand paper (start course and progress toward fine).
Wow - 30" x 60" of hardwood end grain. I think the right solution has already been suggested. A router sled. I'd have to go with a router sled but even then you will have to do a lot of sanding.
I sure hope you have a couple days available, in the next couple weeks, that can be devoted to this task. Do not under estimate how long this could take.
Good luck. I hope you can post some pictures of the finished project. Even some "in progress" pictures would be neat.
I have a low angle block plane]
I admire you for what you are trying to do
A bench plane would do the job but only if you really know how to use a bench plane and you have a good sharp blade. Planing end grain (successfully) is not an easy task.
Using a belt sander could also work but if I was going to go at this with a belt sander it would be a portable and not the Shopsmith Belt Sander. The platen on the Shopsmith Belt Sander is not long enough for your project. If you use a belt sander (portable or otherwise) be careful. You can create a gouge in your work with a belt sander just about that quick.
Just how uneven is the surface area of the work piece. If it is not real bad (a lot of wood to be removed), you could do this with a block of wood wrapped with sand paper (start course and progress toward fine).
Wow - 30" x 60" of hardwood end grain. I think the right solution has already been suggested. A router sled. I'd have to go with a router sled but even then you will have to do a lot of sanding.
I sure hope you have a couple days available, in the next couple weeks, that can be devoted to this task. Do not under estimate how long this could take.
Good luck. I hope you can post some pictures of the finished project. Even some "in progress" pictures would be neat.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
Dusty
Sent from my Dell XPS using Firefox.
When I built my workbench, I needed to flatten my top. I wasn't confident in my abilities to get it dead flat with any of the tools at my disposal.
My solution was to check the yellow pages for cabinet shops in the area and find one with a wide belt sander. I made a few calls and found one willing to sand my top for me. A few passes through the sander and $25 later and I had a smooth flat top.
My solution was to check the yellow pages for cabinet shops in the area and find one with a wide belt sander. I made a few calls and found one willing to sand my top for me. A few passes through the sander and $25 later and I had a smooth flat top.
Here's my combo solution, a toothing blade, a low angle #62 stanley and a couple straight sticks. I won't go through the whole process but using a low angle plane on the end grain is fine. the toothing blade (or plane) will help break up the fibers and reduce tear out to 0. But, before I go on and on, you need to know about planes, sharpening them and how to actually plane something. Now, this is a skill I reccommend to anyone to learn, it's not hard and just takes a bit of time. The flip side is taking the time to build a router sled. Either approach will be a time investment before any work is done to the top.
The easiest way to flatten the top, short of finding a cabinet shop with a wide belt sander, is to use a router sled as was suggested earlier. Use a dish cutter bit like this one from MLCS -- http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/ordersta ... _sign.html
In addition to the link shown earlier, here's one from Wood Magazine on the subject -- http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... op/?page=1
In addition to the link shown earlier, here's one from Wood Magazine on the subject -- http://www.woodmagazine.com/woodworking ... op/?page=1
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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Ed in Tampa
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I thought I posted this last night but I don't see it this morning.
Because you butcher block is probably built from end grain oriented in all directions either a plane or a router sled may cause tear out.
I flatten my top using a belt sander and two straight sticks ( I still can't think of what they are called when used this way)
What you do is lay the sticks across the top and sight over the top of them to see where there is a slop in the top. I also sight under them to find high spots. Then using a lead pencil I color the high spot and sand way the lead and check again.
Sounds like it won't work but it will.
With sanding you will have less tear out. The only problem is until you develop your touch with the belt sander you will tend to scoop out wood.
But the more you play the better you will be and before long a paper thinness with be child's play.
Because you butcher block is probably built from end grain oriented in all directions either a plane or a router sled may cause tear out.
I flatten my top using a belt sander and two straight sticks ( I still can't think of what they are called when used this way)
What you do is lay the sticks across the top and sight over the top of them to see where there is a slop in the top. I also sight under them to find high spots. Then using a lead pencil I color the high spot and sand way the lead and check again.
Sounds like it won't work but it will.
With sanding you will have less tear out. The only problem is until you develop your touch with the belt sander you will tend to scoop out wood.
But the more you play the better you will be and before long a paper thinness with be child's play.
Ed in Tampa
Stay out of trouble!
Stay out of trouble!