Roller vs. Ball Bearing Stands - Which Is Better?

steveaviscpa · Post by **steveaviscpa** » Sat Dec 03, 2011 11:49 pm

I've been looking all over the Internet for an answer to this question - but I can't seem to find one.

I'm looking at getting only the Rockler brand of stands (as these seem to be much more sturdier than others). At first glance, it would seem to me that the ball bearing stand would be a much better choice since it can handle wood from any possible angle - where the roller stand can only handle wood from two directions.

Is my assumption correct - or is there much more I should be considering in making a choice between the two?

Thanks in advance!

curiousgeorge · Post by **curiousgeorge** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:42 am

Just my opinion, but I would prefer the roller ball type for one simple reason. They do not try to pull the board out of line like the standard roller will if not perfectly aligned with the in/out feed.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 12:50 am

Please take the time to read this post:
https://forum.shopsmith.com/viewtopic.php?t=5580

These flip stands are great, since this referenced post was first written I have added a second one. Still no tip overs or other problems on my end. I have even thought of adding a third.

Ed

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:52 am

I really like the look of the Ridgid flip-top that Ed (reible) mentions. I might mention that so far I like most of the Ridgid stuff and so do my 4 woodworking BIL's .
I have a pair of stands still sitting in the barn (old woodshop) that have the balls on them. They have very heavy cast iron 3 leg bases and a good working height adjustment but they are still sitting in the old shop because I think that they suck big time...

I have had them a long time and they have always sucked. It only took about 20 minutes for the balls to get fine sawdust down in them and then not turn at all anymore. Did I mention that I think that they suck? I was going to make them over someday with about a 3" roller about 16" wide since the bases were so good. Maybe I should make flip-tops for them instead. Did I mention that the ball units suck? Another problem with them is that if you try to use them for a narrow piece it will always drop between the ball units (that suck anyway) and can even wedge between them.
I'm afraid that I just do not understand this stuff about "directional"... Just like the slick surface of the flip top stand a board will just slide side ways on a slick roller if it is not perfectly aligned. I can't imagine not being able to look at the setup and sit the stand down at a good enough angle without having to use some kind of device to line it up. I often use a support that is just a smooth surface like my old quick height adjust hospital table. I have also used a B&D Workmate with a T shaped board clamped in it with the top board at a slight angle (low at the front). I consider about any rigged up device to be better than my ball top stands (that suck).
Did I mention that my ball topped stands suck?

Here is an interesting stand that might have some advantage when using a tilt table saw. Easy to clamp in a support at an angle with a little fence of its own at the low edge.
http://toolguyd.com/2010/09/rockwell-jawstand-work-stand-review/
The Rockwell Jaw-Horse also has some possibilities.

I still like a second Shopsmith as a support stand for cutting very long stuff on a Shopsmith. I set it up like the one sawing as far as table and fence but don't install the blade. I do set the table a little lower on the support one.

.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 7:56 am

Did I mention that my ball top stands suck?

.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 9:46 am

I agree with Ed on the flip stands. The portable roller stands are easily knocked over when planing or ripping boards when placed on the outfeed side of the planer or saw, and then you have no support at all. Additionally, if the rollers are not perpendicular to the material being cut, they can pull things off line and ruin a straight cut.

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Sun Dec 04, 2011 10:04 am

I turned my roller stand into a flip stand by screwing two 1X3s on a piece of old counter top. The 1X3s capture the roller and keep it from tilting too far forward.

berry · Post by **berry** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 10:36 am

I have two of Rigid flip stands and think they're really useful, but certainly not perfect. They don't have levelers so if your floor is kittywompus like mine is you'll need to shim corners. Second they don't come up high enough to use on the bandsaw. Still they beat my roller stands everyday.

Ed in Tampa · Post by **Ed in Tampa** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 11:10 am

Roller stands tend to guide the work unless they are perfectly aligned to the direction you want the wood to go. Bearing stands collect dust and jam up.

The Fliptop stands mentioned here are the way to go. I use two, one for infeed and one for out feed. I used them when my SS is in saw mode, when I'm jointing, drilling, for my planner. I use them with my power miter saw and as saw horses.

The best part is you can lock the top and they become part of the perfect table. Throw a sheet of ply on top and you can raise and lower the table as you need.

I would not part with my Fliptop stands and they fold up to fair reasonable size for storage.

Did I mention I love my Fliptop stands.

fixit · Post by **fixit** » Mon Dec 05, 2011 1:12 pm

I have two Rigid flip top stands and like them a lot.

However, on one of them the handle used to tighten the height locking part broke off and I'm now using a wrench to tighten the lock. Either I don't realize how strong I still am at my age OR the part was defective.

I wonder if Rigid might replace it? I've had the stand for several years.

I'll try to make a replacement part but don't have time right now. I'm playing with my NEW PowerPro headstock

:D:D for a while!