A cabinet for an outdoor kitchen.

[tomsalwasser]

Shaker...of course...awesome! Looking forward to the next installment. Wondering what you'll use for the 1/4" panel.

[mbcabinetmaker]

Shaker...of course...awesome! Looking forward to the next installment. Wondering what you'll use for the 1/4" panel.

Tom we are actually going to make a simple raised panel on the Shopsmith for this project. But first I want to try to clear up some confusion I seem to have created in my shop improvement thread about my door assemble clamps.



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The goal is to create a ridgid right angle to assemble doors so that they come out of the clamps square. I started by drilling and screwing the front blocks to the clamps and to the boards. That way they cannot move forward or backwards.




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The rear blocks just flote in a channel that I created. That way I can slide them out the back side if I need to position the block in front of the clamp slider.







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This piece is two sided and replaceable since it will catch a lot of glue.







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This piece is clamped to the bench to help hold the left clamp board firmly.
The right clamp board is slid along the bench and clamped into position depending upon the door length.







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This is now set up to assemble our doors. There is however one more piece of the puzzle. We will get to that later.


Looking back over this post I guess I have actually produced a left angle since it is to my left.

[mbcabinetmaker]

Now that the clamps are set up I am simply going to do a dry fit of the rails and stiles to check fit and to measure the panel.



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The panel needs to be 1 1/4 inches larger than the inside opening of the rails and stiles. That will leave a free space of 1/8 inch all the way around for expansion. I have concluded that it needs to finish at 14 7/8" x 15". I will glue up a blank 16" x 32 that will yield both panels.







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Although my stock is 8 inches wide I am ripping it into 4 inch boards. I then stagger the growth rings to better stabilize the panel. I am not really worried about matching grain on this project. I am more concerned about the whole cabinet not blowing apart in the South Carolina humidity.






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If the glue squezes out when you clamp it you have applied enough. I dont worry about removing it until the panel has dried for about 2 hours. At that point I will unclamp and use a glue scraper to remove the excess and then lay the panel flat and allow it to dry over night.

I used to tell people that you cannot get to much glue but a friend that was helping me out one day proved me wrong. He had it dripping off of his elbows and look like he dipped my clamps in a barrel of it.






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Now that I have sanded the panels and ripped them to size it is time to square up one end.

If you do not have a good cross cut sled for your Shopsmith I would highly recommend that you buy or build one. Keeping stock square makes life a lot easier in the wood shop.






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Now I will simple cut the two to length.

[tomsalwasser]

The door panel blanks look great Mark. I was assuming you were going to use a 1/4" panel of some sort. Is that an option? If so I could see that as being a fast and easy casual cabinet door for shops, or rustic settings. Looking forward to the next step.

Tom

[mbcabinetmaker]

Yes indeed I could have used more power on this set up. I believe this is the only time I have ever tripped a breaker with my 520. After that I decided to make the cut in 3 passes.


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I have set the table angle at 10 degrees for this cut.






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This is about where I pop the breaker. After that I just lowered the blade (raised the table) and made the cut in 3 passed. Worked just fine.



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This is the test panel. It looks pretty good. I will need to make a dado cut on the back side to create a 1/4 inch tongue for the rails and stiles. The only problem with that is the 10 degree angle on the front is going to create a wedge effect. The 1/4 inch thickness should be at least 1/8" beyond where the panel contacts the rails and stiles. This application that is 5/8" so I will shoot for a 14" thickness at 3/4" in from the edges. The dado cut should be at least 1 inch wide also so that the panel can move freely. That way it will have a nice loose fit in case of expansion.

[mbcabinetmaker]

The door panel blanks look great Mark. I was assuming you were going to use a 1/4" panel of some sort. Is that an option? If so I could see that as being a fast and easy casual cabinet door for shops, or rustic settings. Looking forward to the next step.

Tom

Tom that is certainly an option. The 1/4" panel is a traditional shaker look with the square edge rails and stiles. Building these this way you can easily adjust the groove to fit you plywood panels which can vary quite a bit nowadays.

[dusty]

[quote="mbcabinetmaker"]Yes indeed I could have used more power on this set up. I believe this is the only time I have ever tripped a breaker with my 520. After that I decided to make the cut in 3 passes.

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It doesn't seem like you are cutting deep enough to trip a breaker. Is it possible that you just put the blade in a bind by not keeping the stock tight against the fence?

Some times dust collection does does not work well!:):rolleyes:

[mbcabinetmaker]

Yes indeed I could have used more power on this set up. I believe this is the only time I have ever tripped a breaker with my 520. After that I decided to make the cut in 3 passes.

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It doesn't seem like you are cutting deep enough to trip a breaker. Is it possible that you just put the blade in a bind by not keeping the stock tight against the fence?

Some times dust collection does does not work well!:):rolleyes:

Dusty the end grain cut is pretty tough on these panels. I think I got the motor hot making that and then it tripped the breaker on the long grain cut. I would recommend the 3 pass system to avoid burning something up.

[mbcabinetmaker]

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This clamp is the last piece of the puzzle that I mentioned earlier.





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I have screwed a board to it to help pull the doors square.





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After the door is glued and clamped together I shoot some pins into the tenons from the back side. I can then take it out of the clamps an set it aside to dry. That way I can build doors one after the other with out waiting.





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Be sure to wipe any glue squeeze out off with a damp cloth.

[pennview]

That really is quite the efficient set-up for assembling doors. Anyone considering a kitchen cabinet redo or anything more than a few doors would do well to emulate your procedures. Thanks much for sharing your technique.