Whole lot of shortening going on!

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 9:38 pm

chipmaster wrote:I was wondering the same thing. Anybody know?

Outside diameter is the same (except for some Greene models I think). Inside diameter is different since the ER tubes have bickering walls.

billmayo · Post by **billmayo** » Tue Dec 06, 2011 11:59 pm

[quote="kaba"]A question]

YES, All the 10E/10ERs and Mark V Shopsmiths use the same diameter way tubes - 1.75". The very early greenies (no headstock access hole) used larger painted/coated bench tubes. So far, all the 5-in-1 clones I have seen uses 1.675" diameter way tubes. The Shopsmith Mark V headstock does lock down tightly on the 1.675" tubes with no loss of accuracy or any known alignment problems. The .075" lower quill arbor location in relationship to the way tubes did not present any problems. I actually use shorten 1.675" way tubes in my headstock rebuilding stand. This allows me much easier mounting of the Shopsmith headstocks and the ability to mount the clone headstocks.

alfatipo · Post by **alfatipo** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 12:12 pm

In an earlier post on vertical drilling I mentioned the way tubes were bent on my MK5. Even accounting for my progressive focal eyeglass lenses I can actually see the curvature. Spirit bubble confirms this. I'll try to get photos today.

So I am going to go for 10ER tubes as these seem to be the bullet-proof fix. Besides, I like retro upgrades.

Am I correct in assuming that the tubes are a straight swap?

Will I have to disassemble as much as I fear or can one tube be removed at a time with the headstock in place (headstock supported with a jack)?

I haven't searched yet but I'll check on 'proper' dis-assembly later.

alfatipo · Post by **alfatipo** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 2:48 pm

Well I found the "Gone In 60 Seconds" method of headstock removal which I am sure will work for way tube replacement.

Just need confirmation that the tubes on the 10ER and Mk5 are the same length.

chipmaster · Post by **chipmaster** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 3:19 pm

Wow, I wish I had seen the "Gone in 60 seconds" post before I bought my Mark V. I tied mine motorcycle-fashion in my trailer.

v/r,

Rick

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Dec 09, 2011 4:01 pm

alfatipo wrote:Well I found the "Gone In 60 Seconds" method of headstock removal which I am sure will work for way tube replacement.

Just need confirmation that the tubes on the 10ER and Mk5 are the same length.

52" way tubes

52 3/4" bench tubes.

Early greenies bench tubes 1 7/8 od

ER tubes very thick wall (3/16?)

IIRC MV way tubes 1/8 " thick.

Bench tubes slight thinner (0.11)

MV tubes have internal weld seam.

WHAT are 'bickering' walls????????? There is NO weld 'bump'.

alfatipo · Post by **alfatipo** » Sun Dec 11, 2011 11:11 pm

I am now in way tube heaven; fitted 10ER tubes to my MK5 this afternoon.

Straight, solid and in really good nick. Picked up from a very nice guy in Longview, WA. Not sure if Paul frequents these forums but thank you Paul.

What were they thinking with the Coke can MK5 tubes? Sure they require a little more effort to erect (maybe I should re-phrase this) but heck, if you don't use it - you lose it. Of course, if you've already lost it there is always Lift-Assist (does that work with 10ER tubes fitted?).

A previous post mentioned ensuring the way tubes were fitted all the way into the receiving holes. When I loosened the grub screws (when vertical) the first one fell around a 1/16" but the second dropped at least an 1/8". So checking this is a good idea.

There appears to be a weld seam on the 10ER tubes so I fitted them with the seam on top. Interestingly there are dimples where the tubes were secured in the 10ER that coincide with the seam.

Anyone want some droopy MK5 tubes?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 11, 2011 11:20 pm

alfatipo wrote:
. . .

Anyone want some droopy MK5 tubes?

Mountains too high in between!:D

Not that they are detached, did you roll them to see just how 'bent' they are?

Only the additional weight should affect lift assist, but the increase is small percentage wise(the headstock is the 'biggie').

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Sun Dec 11, 2011 11:27 pm

In case anyone is curious, just used my sawzall with a metal cutting blade (milwaukee brand, came with the sawzall) and it worked great. I started the cut with a handheld hacksaw to get a kerf going, but after that then the sawzall cut like butter.

Previously I had taken sets of tubes to the driveshaft place nearby and he used the metal cutting miter saw.

damagi · Post by **damagi** » Sun Dec 11, 2011 11:29 pm

alfatipo wrote:I am now in way tube heaven]http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg22 ... stoMK5.jpg[/IMG]

Straight, solid and in really good nick. Picked up from a very nice guy in Longview, WA. Not sure if Paul frequents these forums but thank you Paul.

What were they thinking with the Coke can MK5 tubes? Sure they require a little more effort to erect (maybe I should re-phrase this) but heck, if you don't use it - you lose it. Of course, if you've already lost it there is always Lift-Assist (does that work with 10ER tubes fitted?).

A previous post mentioned ensuring the way tubes were fitted all the way into the receiving holes. When I loosened the grub screws (when vertical) the first one fell around a 1/16" but the second dropped at least an 1/8". So checking this is a good idea.

There appears to be a weld seam on the 10ER tubes so I fitted them with the seam on top. Interestingly there are dimples where the tubes were secured in the 10ER that coincide with the seam.

Anyone want some droopy MK5 tubes?

I have been meaning to do the same thing. I have a PowerPro, so between the headstock and the extra tube weight I have been a little hesistant.

I wonder if the new Mark 7 dual tilt castings are sturdy enough for the setup? Anyone concerned about that? The castings for the 10ER are much beefier to say the least.