Why do you use ZCI?

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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Why do you use a ZCI

Poll ended at Wed Jan 11, 2012 8:04 am

I did not know what a ZCI was suppose to accomplish.
20
49%
I did not know what a ZCI was suppose to accomplish.
16
39%
I did not know what a ZCI was suppose to accomplish.
3
7%
I did not know what a ZCI was suppose to accomplish.
2
5%
 
Total votes: 41

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dusty
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Why do you use ZCI?

Post by dusty »

We have all read about Zero Clearance Inserts (ZCI) and many of us have decided to use them. But why?

ZCI provide basically two different functions. The first is to provide only a minimal amount of space along side the blade through which cut-offs can fall. The other purpose is to reduce the amount of chip out by supporting the underside of a piece of wood (especially laminates) during the cut.

You can purchase a variety of inserts from Shopsmith or you can built your own. I do both. I treat the ones I use as consumables so I make them up in a batch.

Why do you use a Zero Clearance Insert?

I am trying to do a poll of this.
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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MikeG
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Post by MikeG »

I make and use mine to prevent chip out on the underside. I have not worried about small cutoffs.
pennview
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Post by pennview »

What I've found is that laminate flooring scraps make a nice material for building zero clearance inserts.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

I have not voted yet since like most polls my category is not there. :)
I didn't see the one that said "I have never used one in the past but intend to start using one now mostly to keep giblets out of the gap". :)

Good poll though... I will follow it.


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--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
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robinson46176
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Post by robinson46176 »

pennview wrote:What I've found is that laminate flooring scraps make a nice material for building zero clearance inserts.


That is a great idea. I have a big batch of store samples I got at a yard sale for a buck. I have been watching for uses for it.


.
--
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
bffulgham
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Post by bffulgham »

The ZCI also helps reduce the fuzzies on the bottom side of solid wood as well. There was much less sanding required on the cross cuts I made for the white ash pantry project I did. Even with a very sharp blade, the ash would chip out a bit on the bottom.

I made my own out of 1/2" baltic birch plywood. I'll have to try the laminate flooring option.....have a bunch of left-over from one of my upgrade/redo projects at the former home......
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
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dusty
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Post by dusty »

pennview wrote:What I've found is that laminate flooring scraps make a nice material for building zero clearance inserts.
How is laminate flooring different than baltic birch plywood cut-offs?
"Making Sawdust Safely"
Dusty
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bffulgham
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Post by bffulgham »

dusty wrote:How is laminate flooring different than baltic birch plywood cut-offs?

The laminate I used had an extremely hard man-made outer layer, with the core made of a mdf-type material (must have used a water-proof binding material as a couple of scraps left outside for a couple of years have yet to crumble....)
Bud F.
1998 Mark V 510 bought used 2006, Jointer, 2 Bandsaws, ca 1960 Yuba SawSmith RAS
Projects and "stuff": http://www.bfulgham.com/JAlbum/Woodworking_Index/
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dlbristol
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Zci

Post by dlbristol »

I have made several for support, but I have started to use them where I might get a thin piece caught in the slot and launched at me!
Saw dust heals many wounds. RLTW
Dave
pennview
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Post by pennview »

Bud said what I've found and that's that the plastic laminate surface is quite slick when waxed so wood moves over it without any drag. So if you have some leftovers from a flooring redo, it's worth a try. Other than the slick surface, I doubt it's any better than baltic birch ply.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
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