Hinge Help Needed

gilamonster · Post by **gilamonster** » Fri Dec 16, 2011 10:28 pm

The last major task in my new-house project is a hidden closet.

I built a coat/broom closet between the dining room and living room, and it needs, well, closure. I built it into unused space on the end of the pop-out that covers the steps down to the basement. I decided not to hang an ordinary interior door, as it would face the living room and look like a door to the basement (which actually is on the other end of the pop-out and not visible from the kitchen, DR or LR.

Here's a view from the LR -- the bookshelf will take the place of the folding photo screen, covering the closet behind it:

and here, a side view of the popout. At the right end is the door to the basement; on the left end will be the new, hinged, unit:

So, all along, I have planned to construct a bookshelf that would swing out on a hinge, the outer -- opening -- end supported by a rubber-wheeled caster. Just pull out one side of the shelf unit, and there is the closet.

I am about to start construction of the shelf unit, and am looking for some 'hing-ineering' help: Three or more strap hinges, or one long piano hinge?

Has anyone here ever hinged something like this? The unit, at about 44" W x 84"H and roughly 12" Deep, will be fairly heavy -- 3/4" cabinet-grade plywood and knotty alder trim -- hence the support roller on the swinging end.

But, I am not sure where to find a piano-type hinge that would work, considering the size and weight.

Any thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated!

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:42 am

I am not sure a 6' piano hinge is practical for this.

I do however think the hinge needs to pivot about the FRONT of the right side(swings AWAY from the left side wall out towards the 'rocks'. By hinging about the front, it can be rotated 180 degrees or more.

A 'false' right side mounted to the opening frame would provide a surface to mount the hinges(I think a pair[top/bottom] is adequate if stout enough).

I would caster both sides(ends) to take the weight off the hinges.

I am not sure swivel casters would work, fixed casters at the tangent angle would be better.

Just a few quickies!

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 7:08 am

Differing opinions - always food for discussion.

I would hinge it off of the left from side of the bookcase. This might mean beefing up the wall to provide adequate support but that is what I would do.

I agree, swivel casters will become an issue.

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 12:39 pm

My opinion is to use butt hinges on the right side. A fixed caster below the left side will do the trick. Maybe even a rolling ball type caster.

If you hinge the bookcase on the front, the left side of the case will have to be sloped toward the rear to fit into the opening. Hinging on the rear of the bookcase will make a stick out case that may look like it has just been placed there.

gilamonster · Post by **gilamonster** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:18 pm

JPG40504 wrote:I am not sure a 6' piano hinge is practical for this.

I do however think the hinge needs to pivot about the FRONT of the right side(swings AWAY from the left side wall out towards the 'rocks'. By hinging about the front, it can be rotated 180 degrees or more. That was my plan, whichever hinge I end up with... there is not enuff room between the opening and the wall to the left, to open that way. Unless, of course, it was attached to and hinged on the actual wall to the left, but that is not possible. Stud is not in the right place. On the right side of the pop-out, I reinforced that corner, with extra studs, to give it plenty of strength for the shelf unit.

A 'false' right side mounted to the opening frame would provide a surface to mount the hinges(I think a pair[top/bottom] is adequate if stout enough). At 44Wx84H, the shelf unit will cover the entire opening, framed as you see it.

I would caster both sides(ends) to take the weight off the hinges.

I am not sure swivel casters would work, fixed casters at the tangent angle would be better.

Just a few quickies!

Thanks! Your thoughts are appreciated! About the casters, as well...

gilamonster · Post by **gilamonster** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:24 pm

dusty wrote:Differing opinions - always food for discussion.

I would hinge it off of the left from side of the bookcase. This might mean beefing up the wall to provide adequate support but that is what I would do.
Dusty - that also would require opening up that finished wall, which is not a good idea. Electric runs thru there, and addind studs now would be -- YIKES. I guess I always envisioned it opening from the left, so I beefed up the right side.

I agree, swivel casters will become an issue.

I wasn't thinking of swiveling casters, more along the line of what JPG said... one caster mounted on a tangent. The arc it scribes will be about 40" long, so that should work...

I just want it (them) to be soft, so they don't leave a track on the floor.

gilamonster · Post by **gilamonster** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 1:29 pm

charlese wrote:My opinion is to use butt hinges on the right side. A fixed caster below the left side will do the trick. Maybe even a rolling ball type caster.

If you hinge the bookcase on the front, the left side of the case will have to be sloped toward the rear to fit into the opening. Hinging on the rear of the bookcase will make a stick out case that may look like it has just been placed there.

Yup, that's the look I was hoping for...

As far as the hinges... you think three hinges as you'd use for a door, would work? (then I can match the color of the other hardware in the house)

I'm thinking that the caster would support the weight, therefore taking a lot of stress off the hinges

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Dec 17, 2011 2:03 pm

I assumed you did not wish to recess the shelves into the opening. The 'false side' I was referring to would be parallel the the 'real side' when 'closed' and provide a mount for the hinge away from the wall(right side). Pivoting out from the wall allows greater swing angle(180+?)[less if hinge between 'sides'].

I really think it best to provide support with two casters(tangent mounted) on each end/side, and not depend upon the hinges for support.

Just read your last post. So into the hole to look like a builtin is the object. Fergit all that false end/side nonsense!

If you have experience with hanging(not pre hung) doors with three hinges, then that be a plan. If not, two might be prudent. With casters supporting the entire weight, the hinging becomes simpler and less critcal.

Be mindful of the trim around the opening(Need to 'miss' it when opening.

P.S. Chuck cannot see red too well!

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:15 pm

Maybe Red (JPG) is right in recommending 2 casters - when thinking of a loaded bookcase - HEAVY!!

On the other hand, I have an 8 foot long plywood storage box having 2 butt hinges on one side and a metal caster on the other. It has successfully supported a full sheet of 3/4 ply while the box was filled with as many plywood cutoffs as it would hold. In this case the butt hinges are 3" heavy duty.

Sometimes, not being attracted to RED (the color) is an advantage. Other times - not so much.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Dec 18, 2011 8:41 pm

charlese wrote:Maybe Red (JPG) is right in recommending 2 casters - when thinking of a loaded bookcase - HEAVY!!
. . .

Actually I was thinking 4! - 2 each end, all tangentially positioned.