I am not a hoarder, but I did it again. This time it's a Mark V

[chipmaster]

Status update: I got parts in the mail from Bill Mayo and from SS to replace the speed control mechanism, and the Mark V is now running perfectly.

I ordered the accessory coupler from SS and, once I got it in my hands, thought, "Wow. $21 for this crummy piece of plastic." Had I known what one was like, I would likely have gone the route I've read others are using of attaching radiator hose and whatnot. In any case, it works, so I can't complain too much.

Question: My coupler has a spring in the end that attaches to the powerhead but none where it attaches to the accessory. Is there supposed to be another one, or do I have the correct setup?

v/r,

Rick

[jcraigie]

Your good to go it only has a spring on one side.

[JPG]

Status update: I got parts in the mail from Bill Mayo and from SS to replace the speed control mechanism, and the Mark V is now running perfectly.

I ordered the accessory coupler from SS and, once I got it in my hands, thought, "Wow. $21 for this crummy piece of plastic." Had I known what one was like, I would likely have gone the route I've read others are using of attaching radiator hose and whatnot. In any case, it works, so I can't complain too much.

Question: My coupler has a spring in the end that attaches to the powerhead but none where it attaches to the accessory. Is there supposed to be another one, or do I have the correct setup?

v/r,

Rick

The purpose of the spring is to push the coupler off of the driving hub if it should drift apart.(like forgetting to lock down the headstock . . . . )

Consider the $21 a safety investment!

[beeg]

I ordered the accessory coupler from SS and, once I got it in my hands, thought, "Wow. $21 for this crummy piece of plastic."

Ya could of bought the new and improved one from some one on ebay, for about $50.00.

[chipmaster]

I saw those "new and improved" ones but didn't really have any basis for judgment. Has anyone tried those and, if so, what's the difference?

Meantime, Rick's sawmill is in business:

[ATTACH]15288[/ATTACH]

[JPG]

I saw those "new and improved" ones but didn't really have any basis for judgment. Has anyone tried those and, if so, what's the difference?

Meantime, Rick's sawmill is in business:

[ATTACH]15288[/ATTACH]

$29 comes to mind!

Nice rescued fire wood!

[chipmaster]

Here's a Mark V newbie question: I understand the problem with turning the speed dial toward the slow end without rotating the sheaves/pulleys. What, however, is the problem with starting the machine in other than the slowest setting? I know the applied load will be somewhat greater since it's like starting your car from a stop in second gear (or third, fourth, whatever...). However, since the ratio should be comparable to the fixed ratio on my tablesaw, I would think the associated load would be tolerable.

I ask because I'm having a hard time getting in the habit of slowing the machine down before turning it off. I must have shut it off at saw speed five times last night.

v/r,

Rick

[dusty]

[quote="chipmaster"]Here's a Mark V newbie question: I understand the problem with turning the speed dial toward the slow end without rotating the sheaves/pulleys. What, however, is the problem with starting the machine in other than the slowest setting? I know the applied load will be somewhat greater since it's like starting your car from a stop in second gear (or third, fourth, whatever...). However, since the ratio should be comparable to the fixed ratio on my tablesaw, I would think the associated load would be tolerable.

I ask because I'm having a hard time getting in the habit of slowing the machine down before turning it off. I must have shut it off at saw speed five times last night.

v/r,

There will be a lot of disagreement in this discussion because Shopsmith recommends that you turn the speed down when you shut the machine off. The reason being so that it will be at that low speed when you turn it on AND it will never be over speed for a newer attached SPT..

Operating on a 15 amp circuit, the concern is that the increased current required for startup will trip the breaker and that might happen especially if the Mark V is not the only load on that circuit.

I have isolated my Mark V so that it is the only device that draws on its 15 amp circuit. I have been in this configuration for three or four years now and I have not tripped the breaker at start up. I start with the speed dial set at saw speed frequently (most of the time).

I do not believe that damage will occur from starting the Mark V while set to other than low speed. The length of time that there is excessive start-up current is very short (excessive being in excess of 15 amps).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PZIO-cq8jik&context=C3d7c00aADOEgsToPDskKE6aPwIE2aYQwKjtBu3WCr

[JPG]

There are three 'issues' regarding turning down to slow before powering down.

The first and more obvious has been covered by Dusty(startup torque/electrical loading).

The second far from obvious is the potential of the drive belt dropping down into the sheaves if the machine is jarred while not running. A bump may cause the control sheave to move(open up) allowing the belt to drop. This is less likely to occur with the control sheave closed(SLOW).

I would always set to slow before moving the ss, but I do not reset to slow every time I turn it off. But then I be running on 230v and startup current surge is much smaller.

The third reason is to prevent accidental starting at a speed too high for the just installed SPT. The bandsaw does not like starting up at 'S'. Or 'FAST"


So as a general rule, (SS instructions) tis a good habit to develop. However it does give the porkchop a workout.

[billmayo]

There are three 'issues' regarding turning down to slow before powering down.

The first and more obvious has been covered by Dusty(startup torque/electrical loading).

The second far from obvious is the potential of the drive belt dropping down into the sheaves if the machine is jarred while not running. A bump may cause the control sheave to move(open up) allowing the belt to drop. This is less likely to occur with the control sheave closed(SLOW).

I would always set to slow before moving the ss, but I do not reset to slow every time I turn it off. But then I be running on 230v and startup current surge is much smaller.

The third reason is to prevent accidental starting at a speed too high for the just installed SPT. The bandsaw does not like starting up at 'S'. Or 'FAST"

So as a general rule, (SS instructions) tis a good habit to develop. However it does give the porkchop a workout.

I fully agree with the above. After having to replace a few sets of bandsaw tires for customers forgetting to reset to SLOW, I only set the speed control to SLOW before connecting any SPT, leaving the shop for a while or overnight. Any speed other than SLOW to start lathe work or disk sanding could be dangerous too. It is very easy to forget, for me, to check what speed setting I was using. I have never had a problem with starting the headstock motor (with no SPT connected) with the speed control setting at the HIGH position (testing, sawing, drilling) even on an extension cord.