Bandsaw Squeal

This is a forum for intermediate to advanced woodworkers. Show off your projects or share your ideas.

Moderator: admin

User avatar
mrhart
Platinum Member
Posts: 938
Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2010 4:38 pm
Location: Meridian Idaho

Post by mrhart »

In temporary place of new bearings to eliminate squeal, I did hold one of my wifes ols candles to the back of my blade and turn it by hand a bit. It is quieter, but I'm guessing the bearing replacement will be in order after the first of the year.

I bought an olsen 3/16 x 10 at woodcraft one day in a pinch and that blade is trashed..all I did was cut walnut and maple 3/4 to 3 thick over a weekend or two!!
R Hart
pennview
Platinum Member
Posts: 1634
Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:04 am

Post by pennview »

Olsen makes quality blades, so that wasn't the problem with the blade wearing out quickly. Rather, it was the specifications of the blade. A 3/16" blade with 10 TPI doesn't cut thick wood well. You'd want something like 3 or 4 TPI for the 3" wood, otherwise there isn't enough room between the teeth to carry away the saw dust, so the blade doesn't cut efficiently. With the gullets packed with saw dust, the blade runs hot, burns the wood, and dulls prematurely.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
User avatar
mrhart
Platinum Member
Posts: 938
Joined: Thu Nov 25, 2010 4:38 pm
Location: Meridian Idaho

Post by mrhart »

pennview wrote:Olsen makes quality blades, so that wasn't the problem with the blade wearing out quickly. Rather, it was the specifications of the blade. A 3/16" blade with 10 TPI doesn't cut thick wood well. You'd want something like 3 or 4 TPI for the 3" wood, otherwise there isn't enough room between the teeth to carry away the saw dust, so the blade doesn't cut efficiently. With the gullets packed with saw dust, the blade runs hot, burns the wood, and dulls prematurely.

Thankyou sir for your input, good to know. I am using a 3/16 x 4 olsen now that I bout the same day. Cuts real well but leaves alot of "tire tracks". I was pleased to even find a 72" blade on a Saturday in Boise! Selection is small but it works out. They also sell Timberwolf blades but no 72' and they were $35 and I got one last summer for maybe $18 but then there was shipping.
I've looked through the selection charts, and maybe I need to order a 3/16 x6-8 for all around work, unless its a hardwood over 2" ?? what are your practices?
R Hart
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35600
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

I do not worry about 'tire tracks' since they are quite shallow.;)

But then I am used to the older circular saw blades that guaranteed to create deep cut marks. Carbide blades have spoiled us!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
pennview
Platinum Member
Posts: 1634
Joined: Thu Apr 30, 2009 10:04 am

Post by pennview »

Power Tool Woodworking for Everyone is a good reference for using the band saw and blade selection. If you don't have a copy of the book, you can look at the on-line version here -- http://www.shopsmith.com/academy/bandsaw/index.htm

If you're re-sawing wood, making straight cuts, or long sweeping curves in thick wood, I think a 1/2", 3 or 4 TPI would be a good choice for a blade. For general work, I have a 1/4" 6 TPI blade on the saw.

Lowes sells Bosch band saw blades that are bit over 72" for about $8-9 each.
Art in Western Pennsylvania
Post Reply