I've been cleaning and adjusting my newly acquired 520 and I have the missing Owners Manual on order. I am seeking feedback on some things that may not be covered in the manual...
I have noticed that the surface of the table insert is below the surface of the main table. Based on my findings, it would seem that this is by design. I have found that the thickness of the insert is 0.25" however, the distance from the surface of the main table to the surface that the insert rests on is 0.27". Thus, the insert is 0.02" below the table. Is this the way it should be?
520 Main Table Insert
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- mountainbreeze
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:58 pm
- Location: Ocala, FL
The instructions are in the alignment section "C" page 27.
Install the table insert in the worktable
46. Place the table insert in the worktable recess.
Use a 5/32" Allen wrench to start both screws.
47. First tighten the rear screw. Then the front of
the insert will be sprung slightly above the
table. Level the insert by placing your hand
on the front of the insert, as shown in Figure B-79, and
slowly turning the front screw until it draws
the front of the insert flush with the worktable
surface.
Ed
Install the table insert in the worktable
46. Place the table insert in the worktable recess.
Use a 5/32" Allen wrench to start both screws.
47. First tighten the rear screw. Then the front of
the insert will be sprung slightly above the
table. Level the insert by placing your hand
on the front of the insert, as shown in Figure B-79, and
slowly turning the front screw until it draws
the front of the insert flush with the worktable
surface.
Ed
- mountainbreeze
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 511
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:58 pm
- Location: Ocala, FL
- mountainbreeze
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 511
- Joined: Sun Jan 30, 2011 9:58 pm
- Location: Ocala, FL
Well, I tried that procedure and it didn't work for me. When I tightened the rear screw, the front of the insert did not spring above the table. Instead, with just the rear screw tight, both the front and back of the insert were below the surface of the main table.
What seems odd to me about the procedure is that if the front did spring up and you tighten the front screw just enough to make the two surfaces even, won't the front of the insert now have vertical "play" in it ?
What seems odd to me about the procedure is that if the front did spring up and you tighten the front screw just enough to make the two surfaces even, won't the front of the insert now have vertical "play" in it ?
I have used a thin shim type pieces of material to help level the table inserts on any of the Shopsmith tables. I find there are various types of plastic like material that works very well. Wood tended to compress over time.
Bill Mayo bill.mayo@verizon.net
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
Shopsmith owner since 73. Sell, repair and rebuild Shopsmith, Total Shop & Wood Master headstocks, SPTs, attachments, accessories and parts. US Navy 1955-1975 (FTCS/E-8)
- JPG
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- Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
- Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)
The older (500 etc.) inserts were slightly curved and the screws merely tightened until the ends were flush. With typical sized work pieces, the outer portion of the table provides support so the inserts are not pushed in. It could be a problem if smaller pieces were pushed down excessively, however pieces that small are probably better cut with some other tool.
The newer larger 505 - 20 inserts seem to be not so.much(or my ancient ones have either been flattened by a PO or with age).
Since most of my experience has been with the 500 vintage which is smaller in length, and I have seldom had a situation where it mattered, I have not felt a need to shim them.
FWIW the 10E/R tables have adjusting screws. They could be added to a newer version relatively easily. I know poor grammer, but you get the point!
The newer larger 505 - 20 inserts seem to be not so.much(or my ancient ones have either been flattened by a PO or with age).
Since most of my experience has been with the 500 vintage which is smaller in length, and I have seldom had a situation where it mattered, I have not felt a need to shim them.
FWIW the 10E/R tables have adjusting screws. They could be added to a newer version relatively easily. I know poor grammer, but you get the point!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange