My Latest Project
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shipwright, your work always amazes me!
Heath
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
Central Louisiana
-10ER - SN 13927, Born 1949, Acquired October 2008, Restored November, 2008
-10ER - SN 35630, Born 1950, Acquired April 2009, Restored May 2009, A34 Jigsaw
-Mark V - SN 212052, Born 1986, Acquired Sept 2009, Restored March 2010, Bandsaw
-10ER - SN 39722, Born 1950, Acquired March 2011, awaiting restoration
- shipwright
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They aren't technically inlays. Inlay is when you insert a small design piece into a solid background. This is marquetry where the whole thing is made up of pieces of veneer which are then applied in one piece to the substrate. The fits are very close but any little gaps are filled with a mixture of sanding dust of the appropriate color and hide glue. Then the marquetry is applied to the substrate with hide glue as well.holsgo wrote:I never knew the name for that design. Thanks for the tip. I do see it often on many pieces. The sand shading is cool. I've tried it on the classic fans but I need to work on it more. What did you use as a filler between the inlays?
Paul M
Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
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mbcabinetmaker
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
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mbcabinetmaker
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 1627
- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
A nice little video on sand shading for those like myself not familiar with the process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwZPgmPCJ6I
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwZPgmPCJ6I
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
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Mark
2017 Power Pro Mark 7
2002 50th anniversary model 520
and a few other woodworking tools.
- shipwright
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- Joined: Tue Dec 15, 2009 7:28 pm
- Location: Vancouver Island, Canada
- Contact:
mbcabinetmaker wrote:Paul how did you fill the saw kerf after inserting the pin?
This is a hinge I developed and posted as a blog on lumberjocks. I thought it must be old news and invented thousands of times before, but it has become one of the most favorited blogs on the site. Who knew?
The slots are filled with a little spline, either separately or all at once as below. Let the glue start to set (I use hide glue so that means about a minute) and pull the pin. If you do the one in the photo you just trim out the waste bits with the bandsaw.
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The way I originally used it, it has even more features. For instance, on a box it will stop just past 90 degrees and you can have it fully functional and still remove the lid if you leave the lower splines out. Here's a link to the blog. It is in two or three parts. You can move to the next part by clicking the next title at the top right of the page. http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/4096
You don't have to be a member to look, just to comment.
Paul M
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Paul M ........ The early bird gets the worm but the second mouse gets the cheese
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mbcabinetmaker
- Platinum Member
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- Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 6:18 am
- Location: Greer SC
Tommy mac did a sand shaded clock in season 2 of his show as well, and I recall the wood whisperer doing a segement on it as well.mbcabinetmaker wrote:A nice little video on sand shading for those like myself not familiar with the process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwZPgmPCJ6I
Mark 7, Pro Planer, Jointer, Bandsaw w/Kreg, Biscuit Joiner, Belt Sander, Jig Saw, Ringmaster, DC3300, Overarm Pin Router, Incra Ultimate setup
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
JWBS-14 w/6" riser, RBI Hawk 226 Ultra, Bosch GSM12SD Axial Glide Dual Compound Miter Saw
-- I have parts/SPTs available, so if you are in the Seattle area and need something let me know --
damagi AT gmail DOT com
Thanks Mark. I had no idea what sand shading was. I guess it kind of burns it?mbcabinetmaker wrote:A nice little video on sand shading for those like myself not familiar with the process.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cwZPgmPCJ6I
Joe
520, Bandsaw, Beltsander, Delta Drill Press, Delta Lathe, Craftsman Planner/Jointer, Delta Planner, Mini "Greenie" Shorty 500
Being a VETERAN is an honor
Being a GRANDPA is priceless
520, Bandsaw, Beltsander, Delta Drill Press, Delta Lathe, Craftsman Planner/Jointer, Delta Planner, Mini "Greenie" Shorty 500
Being a VETERAN is an honor
Being a GRANDPA is priceless
- robinson46176
- Platinum Member
- Posts: 4182
- Joined: Mon Mar 09, 2009 9:00 pm
- Location: Central Indiana (Shelbyville)
shipwright wrote:This is a hinge I developed and posted as a blog on lumberjocks. I thought it must be old news and invented thousands of times before, but it has become one of the most favorited blogs on the site. Who knew?
The slots are filled with a little spline, either separately or all at once as below. Let the glue start to set (I use hide glue so that means about a minute) and pull the pin. If you do the one in the photo you just trim out the waste bits with the bandsaw.
The way I originally used it, it has even more features. For instance, on a box it will stop just past 90 degrees and you can have it fully functional and still remove the lid if you leave the lower splines out. Here's a link to the blog. It is in two or three parts. You can move to the next part by clicking the next title at the top right of the page. http://lumberjocks.com/shipwright/blog/series/4096
You don't have to be a member to look, just to comment.
Paul M
OK... I was thinking 180 degrees off.
I was visualizing cutting a deep kerf for a spline down the back leaving only the front (round) part intact then splining and trimming out. I was picturing a box side etc. with a longish tenon that would serve as a spline. I guess that would work OK???
That picture clears things up.
.
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farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
farmer
Francis Robinson
I did not equip with Shopsmiths in spite of the setups but because of them.
1 1988 - Mark V 510 (bought new), 4 Poly vee 1 1/8th HP Mark V's, Mark VII, 1 Mark V Mini, 1 Frankensmith, 1 10-ER, 1 Mark V Push-me-Pull-me Drillpress, SS bandsaw, belt sander, jointer, jigsaw, shaper attach, mortising attach, TS-3650 Rigid tablesaw, RAS, 6" long bed jointer, Foley/Belsaw Planer/molder/ripsaw, 1" sander, oscillating spindle/belt sander, Scroll saw, Woodmizer sawmill
Sand shading is very cool. It does burn the wood but does so consistently, so, if one piece is proud of another a plane can then bring them flush without eliminating the shade itself...like if you painted it, the paint would be removed. Does that at all make sense?
Inlays, sorry I thought you laid the pieces into a block, now I can see you really have done it all in marquetry. Inlays were hard enough for me getting the pieces right. Of course, i felt like a pro by the end of the project...its just the beginning of the project was not so much. You really have a cool setup from the looks of your site.
Inlays, sorry I thought you laid the pieces into a block, now I can see you really have done it all in marquetry. Inlays were hard enough for me getting the pieces right. Of course, i felt like a pro by the end of the project...its just the beginning of the project was not so much. You really have a cool setup from the looks of your site.