Today in the Shop

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 7:45 pm

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I am not as far along as I had planned to be on this project. I am not worried about not hitting the target installation date it is the 4 jobs lining up to hit at once after that that is intrupting my sleep at night.

A good problem to have after the last few years!:)

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Thu Jan 05, 2012 8:34 pm

Interesting double hinging!;)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 5:02 am

Once again, Mark, I am impressed. I literal spend hours reading and rereading your posts. I learn something every time I log in. Your operation is one that I would have enjoyed apprenticing in.

I can't duplicate your results but what I have learned from your posts has helped to improve my work.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 11:17 am

One thing I have noticed, and I think significant enough to deserve highlighting is the fitting of the drawers separate from the fitting of the drawer front. I have noticed that in previous post(s), but it is very obvious in this post in the next to last pix.

Keep it coming!!!:)

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mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Fri Jan 06, 2012 7:42 pm

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I fell 2 drawer fronts short of my goal today. Oh well I will just do like farmer and make a new goal tomorrow.

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 4:22 am

Details please. The inserts: are they hardwood? and how thick (look to be about 1/2")?

Are the screws being used to hold the inserts in the dados as well as the slides to the inserts? or are the inserts glued in?

I gotta go find some of those screws.

I assume NO power driver for those screws into that melamine.

Mark: Are the inside corners in all of your carcass' absolutely square? I try and try and never succeed. They are close but not right on. My individual pieces are properly sized. The corner cuts are all square. The dados/rabbets are all properly sized. Then comes glue up and close is the best I get.

mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 8:37 am

Dusty the pull out shelves and drawers have to be built out to clear the door hinges. With a 1/2" or 3/4" overlay hinge I use a 1" standard of my own design to accomplish that task as well as make them adjustable by using a regular 5MM line boring pattern and what is commonly referred to as a system screw. It actually fits into the 5MM hole. I will warn you that they are soft and I recommend using a #2 Pozidriv® bit and a impact stile driver works best. If it ever slips at all throw the screw away and replace with a fresh one. This is a great sheet on different bit designs.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
I get the best results using the correct power driver and have standard drills right angle drills and impact drivers of each. About the only driving that I do by hand is to adjust the door hinges and I use a special Blum brand screwdriver for that.

I used maple for these standards and just covered the sides that are most visible. I have covered the entire standard and drilled through the laminate before but I get some tear out around the holes and I think this is a little neater. I my go back and paint the maple edge. I have attached the standards to the cabinet with the regular square drive screws that I use using two of the standards holes that I have counter sunk and drilled through.

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Now to the question of squareness. It is critical to have square parts on these Framless/European style cabinets. Plywood is not always square from the factory so that is why I have always had a sliding saw of some type in my shop. I rip all my plywood to width first and then square the ends and cut to length on the sliders. I always trim at least 1/4" off of all factory edges. The problem of keeping things square comes in the cut off or cross cut process. When out in the field working without shop tools I can accomplish the same thing with a good 48" square, some good straight edges and a circular saw. I will admit that the saw and straight edges have been replaced by my Festool track saw. On the other side of the coin some times close enough is ok if the finished products looks and functions properly. We are our worst critics.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:10 am

dusty wrote: Mark: Are the inside corners in all of your carcass' absolutely square? I try and try and never succeed. They are close but not right on. My individual pieces are properly sized. The corner cuts are all square. The dados/rabbets are all properly sized. Then comes glue up and close is the best I get.

Here is a shot from my recent library project showing the coped strip at the bottom between the shelves and the floor that it took to reach a level line.
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That part of the house was built around 1840 and then moved to this location about 1900. There are no signs of settling. Basically the difference was from it just being "good enough".

People lived a lot differently back then and floors were not given the attention they get now. I have seen a lot of historic homes (even Mt. Vernon) that were quite fancy but the floors were commonly just rough planks.
I have 3 100+ year old barns and in spite of "old time craftsmanship" I can find dozens of mistakes, mis-cuts and re-cuts all through them. Then again for their need they were "good enough".

This original house was as I understand its history built for tenant farmers and many such houses were not built for show. My father and I re-sided it in the late 1950's with ceder shake shingle siding. We spent weeks shimming with pieces similar to what I used under the book shelves just to get a flat surface because the original frame was so crooked. Then again, for tenant farmers it was considered "good enough".

While you feel that you are only getting "close" look at the work of others with a square in hand and you will find that in most cases they too are only "close".

.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 9:30 am

robinson46176 wrote:While you feel that you are only getting "close" look at the work of others with a square in hand and you will find that in most cases they too are only "close".

I should have mentioned that if you do start checking the work of others "with a square in hand"... Be sure that square is square.

If you pull 4 framing squares off of the rack in the store and look very carefully you will likely find that at least one of them is off a little.

It may look OK but is only "close".
Still, for most things it is probably "good enough".
The same thing happens with levels. If I am buying a level I want to compare several and choose one from the group that read alike. There is often one that is a teeny tiny bit different and I don't want that one.
I do the same thing with thermometers. I don't want just one to choose from, I want to see at least 3 and reject the odd-ball first. It can be amazing how different some can read.
On bathroom scales on the other hand I want the one that always reads low.

.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Jan 07, 2012 12:19 pm

Mark: Thanks for the 'driver' link!

Replicated here for 'future reference' via 'search'. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives

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Today in the Shop

driver types(screw heads)