I find the motor belt from Shopsmith wears better and longer than any other 1/2" belt I have seen. The Shopsmith headstock needs to be operated quite often to prevent the V-belt from taking a set which will cause vibration in the headstock. I replace all non-shopsmith belts with the Shopsmith motor belt for customers. Skip Campbell uses a excellant type belt on the 10ERs that I have not tried yet.
The Power-Twist (flex) belt (35 links) from Amazon.com is what I use as a replacement for the motor V-belt if the headstock is not being used frequently.
Grizzly G3640 Power Twist® V-Belt - 1/2" x 4' Price: $23.95
Bill Mayo
solicitr wrote:Ed- it's a standard 1/2-inch A-profile belt, right?
billmayo wrote:The Power-Twist (flex) belt (35 links) from Amazon.com is what I use as a replacement for the motor V-belt if the headstock is not being used frequently.
Grizzly G3640 Power Twist® V-Belt - 1/2" x 4' Price: $23.95
Bill Mayo
I looked at the instructions for installing this belt and they might as well have been written in Chinese. The built comes 4' long is that the correct size for the Shopsmith or does it need to be shortened. If it needs to be shortened how many links need to be removed?
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
I use 35 links (approx 27") now for any brand of link belts. If you order the red 2 ft. length belt, tell me how many links you need (2 or 3), an address and I will send them to you. I started with 36 links years ago but the belt would get too long after operating for a while. All you need is your fingers to push or pull and twist the 2 tabs into the slotted holes. I have used needle nose pliers to help pull/push and twist the link tabs. This link has pictures for changing the length of the link belt : http://www.fennerdrives.com/high_perfor ... lation.asp
I have always use link belts on all my V-belt driven equipment for many years.
Bill Mayo
paulmcohen wrote:I looked at the instructions for installing this belt and they might as well have been written in Chinese. The built comes 4' long is that the correct size for the Shopsmith or does it need to be shortened. If it needs to be shortened how many links need to be removed?
Bill,
I to have used link belts for several year, but never on any of my Shopsmiths.
Have you had occasion to tear down a Mark V that has had the link belt in use for an extended period of time? I am curious as to the wear that a link belt might cause to the sheaves.
ldh
billmayo wrote:I use 35 links (approx 27") now for any brand of link belts. If you order the red 2 ft. length belt, tell me how many links you need (2 or 3), an address and I will send them to you. I started with 36 links years ago but the belt would get too long after operating for a while.
Bill Mayo
Thanks for the offer, I am not planning on doing anything until this summer, I don't understand why you don't know if I need 2 or 3 and how do I know. Do different manufacturers sell different numbers of links as 2"?
Paul Cohen
Beaverton, OR
A 1982 500 Shopsmith brand upgraded to a Mark 7 PowerPro, Jointer, Bandsaw (with Kreg fence), Strip Sander, Ring Master and lots of accessories all purchased new
12" Sliding Compound Mitre Saw, 1200 CFM DC
There are 65 links in most of the 4' belts I buy. How many would you believe was in a belt sold by the foot? I never brought anything shorter than 4' sections. I have used many 35 link motor belts on the Shopsmith and they are still working. I had to remove a link from my 36 link belts I used on my Shopsmiths.
When I get Shopsmiths for repairs, I always have to clean caked-on built-up gunk off the control and idler sheaves. So far, I have not found any build-up of anything on the control and idler sheaves using link belts over the past 3 years on my Shopsmiths. The sheaves still look new.
Bill Mayo
paulmcohen wrote:Thanks for the offer, I am not planning on doing anything until this summer, I don't understand why you don't know if I need 2 or 3 and how do I know. Do different manufacturers sell different numbers of links as 2"?
Bill,
Have ordered the link belt from Grizzly (cheapest online price).
The SS poly-V arrived.
Now:
I really want to get the alignment right. The book says two grooves on either side (2-and-2). I could swear (judging by eye) that 1-and-3, as it was when I got it, aligns better. Now is there a way inside that cramped headstock to check for square so as to get it right?
(NB- Is there really no device to keep the eccentric bushing from slipping towards the inside of the headstock while tensioning, analagous to the keeper-screw on the outside?)
The new eccentric bushings have a screw and washer on them to keep them from slipping inboard. I would like to know if this new eccentric bushing will drop into my 89 SS.
I have found all Mark V eccentric bushings will work. I like the eccentric bushings that are split/cut at the thinest part and no set screw. I find the set screw if too tight can deform the idler shaft bearing and cause it to fail. I use my eye ball to align the idler sheave pulley and the Drive Sleeve shaft pulley using the belt. I keep the eccentric bushing againest the washer and screw ( or whatever is used to keep the eccentric bushing from exiting the headstock ) and move the idler shaft to align the pulleys/belt. Then I tighten the eccentric bushing set screw if used (not too hard) and adjust the belt for proper deflection. I normally replace washer that keeps the eccentric bushing in the headstock with a body washer (bigger dia.) to prevent the idler shaft bearing from exiting the eccentric bushing and headstock. Do not over tighten the bolt and nut that keeps the eccentric bushing from moving.
Bill Mayo
james.miller wrote:The new eccentric bushings have a screw and washer on them to keep them from slipping inboard. I would like to know if this new eccentric bushing will drop into my 89 SS.
