New casters

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

Moderator: admin

cooch366
Gold Member
Posts: 309
Joined: Fri Dec 23, 2011 1:48 pm
Location: North Central Massachusetts

Any update on caster upgrade / templates

Post by cooch366 »

It's been a bit and I'm wondering if there has been a change to the template that is provided for the "new" casters.

If I order the new ones, can I rely on the template for the installation?

I've seen several posts about the correct measurement to install and can't seem to get my arms around what the "exact" measurement should be because of the flawed shopsmith template.

Has the template been fixed? or can someone give me an exact measurement to install the new casters.

Thanks for a GREAT forum

Steve
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35434
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

cooch366 wrote:It's been a bit and I'm wondering if there has been a change to the template that is provided for the "new" casters.

If I order the new ones, can I rely on the template for the installation?

I've seen several posts about the correct measurement to install and can't seem to get my arms around what the "exact" measurement should be because of the flawed shopsmith template.

Has the template been fixed? or can someone give me an exact measurement to install the new casters.

Thanks for a GREAT forum

Steve

Judging from past 'experience' I doubt the good folks in Dayton have a clue that there is a 'problem'. That is IMHO due to the fact that Nick no longer serves as a forum interface. So I doubt they are aware of all this discussion.

Secondly this would not be the first time that the intended design function was not retained with a new alteration. They may be quite satisfied with the 'it moves soooo easily in high position' result.

I would neither hold my breath waiting for corrective action out of Dayton nor delay procuring a set.

If the template indicates drilling the new holes 1 3/4" above the original holes, I would slip that template down 1/8" to 3/16" and drill them there.

As a double check before drilling: position the casters aligned with the original holes. Mark the leg at the point of the bottom of the caster casting. Slide the casters up until the bottom of the casting is above the mark the same distance as you are raising the holes. Clamp the casters to the leg and try them with the new wheels. Ideally they should float on the floor when raised fully, raise the legs slightly off the floor(1/8" min to 1/4") in the first position and 3/8" to 1/2" in the second position. The weight should be fully on the legs when lowered.

If I understand all the discussion above regarding the SS issue, 1 5/8" seems to be more correct than the ss template (1 3/4"). Maybe even 1 9/16".

Keep in mind these dimensions are along the center line of the holes(a line passing through both original holes and extending upward parallel to the inside edge of the leg to the farthest 'new' hole).




Just as a point of curiosity, is the template intended to be used on the outside or the inside of the leg? That would introduce about a 1/16 difference. If all the locating is off the original holes only, this question is moot!
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
trainguytom
Gold Member
Posts: 324
Joined: Sat Feb 10, 2007 7:22 pm
Location: Central WI

Post by trainguytom »

I just found a set of replacement casters at my local Menards in the hardware area. They are ball bearing pressure fit, hard rubber or nylon, or something similar, & the right size for direct replacement...no drilling, no changing anything. All 4 cast me about $16.00. I've been using them for a month or 2 & they work great. The machines move at my fingertips. If you can't find them there, Grainger has that size, too but @ around $9.00, I think.
My dad's 1951 10er, 2 more 10er's, same vintage, a Goldie MK5, a 510 shortie with 34inch tubes, bandsaw, jointer, jigsaw, belt sander, a ton of small SS goodies and still looking...you just can't have enough Shopsmith stuff
User avatar
fjimp
Platinum Member
Posts: 2345
Joined: Wed Jul 19, 2006 8:45 pm
Location: Lakewood, Colorado

Post by fjimp »

I purchased and installed the upgrade last fall. I have a feeling the templates have been correct all along. WHILE READING THE INSTRUCTIONS, no shout intended. But hey I may not be the only one here who feels instructions are for someone else, I realized that the templates are designed to be used with the Mark V turned upside down. When used that way they worked perfectly. When I placed my order I asked if they were aware of the issue. The answer wasn't really vague. Simply stated, Read and follow the instructions and they work fine. Okay those smarter than I am can commence with the dagger throw, it will change nothing here. My first set work so well I am going to do another Mark V and a shorty this spring. I love how well the larger wheels work. Jim
F. Jim Parks
Lakewood, Colorado:)

When the love of power is replaced by the power of love the world will have a chance for survival.
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35434
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

fjimp wrote:I purchased and installed the upgrade last fall. I have a feeling the templates have been correct all along. WHILE READING THE INSTRUCTIONS, no shout intended. But hey I may not be the only one here who feels instructions are for someone else, I realized that the templates are designed to be used with the Mark V turned upside down. When used that way they worked perfectly. When I placed my order I asked if they were aware of the issue. The answer wasn't really vague. Simply stated, Read and follow the instructions and they work fine. Okay those smarter than I am can commence with the dagger throw, it will change nothing here. My first set work so well I am going to do another Mark V and a shorty this spring. I love how well the larger wheels work. Jim

I cannot leave this alone!

The description by you in post 83 matches in detail the 'issue' that we are babbling about. It doesn't clear the floor in the first position.

That SS non-vague response I believe reflects the lack of understanding on their part as to how it should work. IMHO it should be the same as with new original casters. Solid on floor when raised, 1/4" +- in first position and 1/2" +- in second position. Any thing else is 'wrong', 'inadequate', 'not right', 'xxxxxxxxxxxx'. Take yer pick, they all be reasonable opinions.


P.S. I am always leery of the word 'fine' when used to describe a contested condition! Fine is way too nebulous! Way too subjective. Way too inadequate. Way too non-informative.
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Post by reible »

I always ask myself "will Ed be happy with these", in this case I have said no. Mine works fine with the wheels I have and I am on only my second set since 1976...

However this does have me wondering what the issue could be. If the wheels are "x" inches now and the new wheels are "y" inches would you not just take the difference (y-x)/2=difference in height do to tire dia. Next would be the mounting difference do to design of the metal bits, so the distance from the axle to where they are seated in the assembly "k". I would assume the new wheels have a greater distance??? either way this needs to be accounted for.

The angle of the leg will need to be looked at but a wag is say .1". If you have the numbers plug them in and you should have a pretty good idea of how much higher the holes need to be.

I don't have the parts so I can't give you the numbers. This doe not look like rocket science here.

Ed
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35434
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

reible wrote:I always ask myself "will Ed be happy with these", in this case I have said no. Mine works fine with the wheels I have and I am on only my second set since 1976...

However this does have me wondering what the issue could be. If the wheels are "x" inches now and the new wheels are "y" inches would you not just take the difference (y-x)/2=difference in height do to tire dia. Next would be the mounting difference do to design of the metal bits, so the distance from the axle to where they are seated in the assembly "k". I would assume the new wheels have a greater distance??? either way this needs to be accounted for.

The angle of the leg will need to be looked at but a wag is say .1". If you have the numbers plug them in and you should have a pretty good idea of how much higher the holes need to be.

I don't have the parts so I can't give you the numbers. This doe not look like rocket science here.

Ed
It isn't! That is why I resonate! Now maybe they had different parts when coming up with the template, but a simple 'production test' would have caught this.

However the 'test' parameters would have to be correct also. I think 'our' perception and theirs of targeted function differs. Therein lie the 'rub'.


I do not think what I think was the goal coincides with their understanding of the goal either when defining the template, or now!

At least 'we' know different and how to get to the 'correct' end result.


BTW ED It rolls sooo much easier!!!!!;)
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
reible
Platinum Member
Posts: 11283
Joined: Thu Jul 20, 2006 12:08 pm
Location: Aurora, IL

Post by reible »

I have not added the lift either, part of this woodworking is for weight bearing exercise, pushing and pulling are all part of it.

I have a bad back but I just don't trust the compression springs since I had a hatchback lid hit me in the head when it failed (one side only). When I can't do it anymore then that will be another thing, same with the wheels.

Ed


[quote="JPG40504"]It isn't! That is why I resonate! Now maybe they had different parts when coming up with the template, but a simple 'production test' would have caught this.

However the 'test' parameters would have to be correct also. I think 'our' perception and theirs of targeted function differs. Therein lie the 'rub'.


I do not think what I think was the goal coincides with their understanding of the goal either when defining the template, or now!

At least 'we' know different and how to get to the 'correct' end result.


BTW ED It rolls sooo much easier!!!!!]
User avatar
JPG
Platinum Member
Posts: 35434
Joined: Wed Dec 10, 2008 7:42 pm
Location: Lexington, Ky (TAMECAT territory)

Post by JPG »

reible wrote:I have not added the lift either, part of this woodworking is for weight bearing exercise, pushing and pulling are all part of it.

I have a bad back but I just don't trust the compression springs since I had a hatchback lid hit me in the head when it failed (one side only). When I can't do it anymore then that will be another thing, same with the wheels.

Ed
I went 40+ yrs without any casters!:D
╔═══╗
╟JPG ╢
╚═══╝

Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
User avatar
camerio
Platinum Member
Posts: 599
Joined: Fri Aug 11, 2006 8:01 am
Location: Valcartier, just north of Quebec City, CANADA

Post by camerio »

trainguytom wrote:I just found a set of replacement casters at my local Menards in the hardware area. They are ball bearing pressure fit, hard rubber or nylon, or something similar, & the right size for direct replacement...no drilling, no changing anything. All 4 cast me about $16.00. I've been using them for a month or 2 & they work great. The machines move at my fingertips. If you can't find them there, Grainger has that size, too but @ around $9.00, I think.
What is the size that you found for direct replacement and could you post a picture ? Thanks
Camerio
MarkV 520 & Band saw
Post Reply