Sharpening Tools by Hand

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 8:12 pm

I confess that I prefer a grinder for most tools sharpening.
Recently I have begun to study sharpening techniques in depth. During the past few days I have reviewed a couple of interesting DVD's on the subject. The first was The Last Word on Sharpening by Christoper Schwarz. The second is Wood Carving; Sharpening Techniques by Chris Pye. I have read several books on the subject as well. I am fascinated by the prospect of hand sharpening and in process of designing a new sharpening station for use toward that end. I am interested in hearing members experience such as successes and frustrations with hand sharpening. Part of my goal is to replace much of my sharpening with honing. I look forward to ideas. Jim

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Thu Jan 19, 2012 8:42 pm

I am very fond of using diamond hones to frequently do a light touch-up rather than letting something get seriously dull and then grinding a lot of material away.
While I have a lot of grinding equipment I always use it as lightly as possible unless I have to do major "reconstruction" on something. That is usually on something belonging to a customer. Once in a great while I do screw something of mine up bad enough while abusing a tool that it needs major work.

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mbcabinetmaker · Post by **mbcabinetmaker** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 7:53 am

Jim you can spend a lot of money on sharping equipment. I have tried several methods over the years and have settled on a combination of the scarry sharp method using a granite slab with wet and dry paper and a 1000/8000 combination Norton water stone. I use the water stone for most of my planes and chisels. I use the slab with 220 grit paper to flatten the water stone. It is my experience that no machine will give you the results of honing. I am in the camp of using a jig. I know that the free hand thing is very poplar these days but for me I get quick repeatable results with my Veritas jig. That is not always true for my free hand sharping. Of course there are things like gouges that you just have to do the best way you can.

This video is on the jig I use.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6-eBZAh3g3g

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 9:30 am

Like Mark, I use the Veritas jig. After the sandpaper, it's diamonds then ceramic.
I have a Worksharp 3000 that is about to be overhauled and jigged so I can sharpen wider blades. Here's a humorous yet very informative video about the conversions I'm contemplating. Video

dforeman · Post by **dforeman** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 10:18 am

I can't really comment on saw blades because I haven't had to sharpen one yet. Plus, I can't really comment on chisels because I haven't really doved into turning and carving yet. But, I do a fair amount of cutting and triming trees. And, the best way I've found to keep my chain sharp is by hand sharpening using a mill bastard file. I've tried all kinds of different methods too (dremel tools, table top sharpening systems). While these methods do work to a point, nothing really puts a fine sharp edge the way you can with the ol hand method. The only real big issue with this method is it takes a fair chunk of time and sometimes patience (if the blade is real dull or marred up).

beeg · Post by **beeg** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:31 am

Jim, whatever system ya finally choose. Stick with it and LEARN how to use it. What sharpening equip do ya have now?

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 11:50 am

The current issue of Wood Magazine, Issue 210, March 2012, has an article on sharpening using sandpaper, ceramic, water and diamond stones, listing what the author considers the pros and cons for each. The article gives average speeds for shaping and honing chisels using each abrasive.

It says "don't bother with oil stones," saying they're costly, ineffective and messy. It claims they don't cut tool steels like A2, but the author clearly hasn't used silicone carbide stones like Norton's Crystolon, which will sharpen tool steel and which are relatively inexpensive (when compared to ceramic and diamond), but they're not as fast as some of the other methods and don't come in really finer grits.

terrydowning · Post by **terrydowning** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 12:03 pm

Sharpening is one of the most personal topics I have seen in woodworking discussions and can get rather heated.

I prefer to hone and sharpen by hand. I use oil stones because that's what I have. I do use an "English honing guide" on plane irons and bench chisels. I Tried the sandpaper on a slab method, was not impressed with the result (or the cost of consumables)

My one concession to power sharpening is my lathe chisels. I have caved in and use a strip sander on those. Lathe chisels just lose their edge too fast you can take a beautifully honed skew or gouge, touch some spinning wood and very shortly the edge is worn off. Personally, it's just not worth the time and effort to hand sharpen those.

Find what works best for you, stick with it and master it. Sharp tools are truly a pleasure to work with.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:07 pm

How would the Shopsmith sharpening guide and their black sanding discs rank?

Gene Howe · Post by **Gene Howe** » Fri Jan 20, 2012 1:27 pm

I'm not a fan, at all. In fact, if I can find mine, I'll be glad to permanently loan it.