motor issues

holsgo · Post by **holsgo** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 3:41 pm

Here are the two pics
D
[ATTACH]15907[/ATTACH]
A
[ATTACH]15908[/ATTACH]
Now going back out to find any oil holes. Just confirmed the click is from the motor.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 6:00 pm

I can't see "A" very well but from what I can see I believe it is a junction box with a fuse under a flip open cover. We used to use a lot of those years ago and they still are a good item (if the amperage is right).
"F" is just a fan cover/guard/air guide and I am pretty sure it does not have any bearing mount in it. That motor is a AOM unit (air over motor) and cools the motor by blowing air across the outside of the motor case instead of through it. Also often called a "dust-proof" motor. You can see the air outlets in one of the pics from the other side.
I'm putting my bet on a gummed up centrifugal start switch inside of the motor...

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holsgo · Post by **holsgo** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 7:26 pm

So, as far as getting to clean the fans I can pull the shroud cover. I did look closer and the cover doesn't seem to hold the center of the motor so I think I can pull it. But, would pulling it be of any value? Anything to clean or lube in there? Maybe another pic. But how to get to the switch?

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:20 pm

Well that makes more sense than a start relay box so far away! 30A is a rather large fuse though! Does the lamp plug in there and does the run switch control it?

Removing the end shroud will hopefully expose the 4 screws that hold the motor end caps to the middle. Those screws are barely discernable in the second pix. The fan 'outlet' as Farmer described is also in that pix.

holsgo · Post by **holsgo** » Tue Jan 24, 2012 8:51 pm

Well, I'll check the lamp being plugged in tomorrow. I'll remove the shroud and take some pics. Its only on a 20 amp circuit so the 30 would never throw.

holsgo · Post by **holsgo** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 6:08 am

Here you go, shroud removed and screws. Now, is the switch on the other end. Somehow the SS motor seemed easier but then again, I followed a ton of posts.
[ATTACH]15917[/ATTACH]
[ATTACH]15918[/ATTACH]

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 11:43 am

Yes the ss motor is easier.

Next steps is the removal of the fan from one end, and the cone pulley from the other. Any burrs caused by the set screws must be smoothed down(hopefully they will have contacted a flat so as to not be a problem).

Not sure from 'all one color/painted over' parts, but I believe the screws that held the fan shroud cover screwed into threaded spacers. Long screws from the opposite end probably also screw into the inside end of those spacers. Once those 4 screws are removed, both end caps should be removable. I am guessing that the start switch mechanism and switch will be at the 'junction' box end.

Really good pix of what is behind the junction box end cap will help tremendously.

Penetrating oil will be your friend getting the shafts cleared off.

holsgo · Post by **holsgo** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:35 pm

We are talking about removing the pulley and 4 of the circled screws right. Now this end cap should slide along the shaft I think without taking the rest of the motor with it.
[ATTACH]15920[/ATTACH]

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 12:53 pm

holsgo wrote:We are talking about removing the pulley and 4 of the circled screws right. Now this end cap should slide along the shaft I think without taking the rest of the motor with it.
[ATTACH]15920[/ATTACH]

Be sure to mark the exact relationship of the ends to the center section before taking it apart. I like to do it with a small chisel marking the end and the center section both at the same time at each end. Some use a marker pen but I don't like markers... A swab with solvent and the mark is gone.
It is fairly common for the starter switch to be in the end where the capacitor wires enter. You will know when you get there.

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JPG · Post by **JPG** » Wed Jan 25, 2012 1:11 pm

holsgo wrote:We are talking about removing the pulley and 4 of the circled screws right. Now this end cap should slide along the shaft I think without taking the rest of the motor with it.
[ATTACH]15920[/ATTACH]

Yes, but, I think the switch will be at the other end.

Take the fan off the shaft, then remove those 4 screws and the fan end end cap should come off(do as Farmer has said - mark it).

Do watch for any wire movement that may indicate parts mounted to the end cap.

I know you are not receptive, but IIWM, it would get completely disassembled on a bench, not while still mounted. That would require disconnecting ALL those wires in the junction box:rolleyes:.