New casters

Create a review for a woodworking tool that you are familiar with (Shopsmith brand or Non-Shopsmith) or just post your opinion on a specific tool. Head to head comparisons welcome too.

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JPG
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Post by JPG »

trainguytom wrote:If you're comparing to the old standard Smith casters, I'm sure 3" ones work better. What I found is that the 2 inchers that I bought roll & pivot MUCH better than those original Shopsmith casters & they're a drop in-no drilling. I'm sure the ball bearings & newer wheel composition help a lot.
From my experience (and this is on a reasonably smooth concrete basement floor, so maybe there are a lot of machines that roll over way rougher terrain, & my experience wouldn't be valid there) these $4 drop-ins save time, money and are a big improvement over my old casters. (So there, that's my story & I'm stickin' to it)
Also, (will I never shut up???) I think I saw 3" casters in the same bin at Menards, so, if a guy wanted to re-drill, he could. I think they were also about $4.
Okay, I'm really done...no, really.

They cost a bit more!
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/builders-hardware/utility-hardware/casters/3-dyna-tread-friction-stem-caster/p-1469161-c-9698.htm

These are cheaper, but the stem is too long, and the offer has ended(may get relisted?).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150385619475?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
cooch366
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I installed the Menards casters today

Post by cooch366 »

and here are 3 pictures (all 3 settings) when installed (it's nice to provide help for a change, rather than taking:) )

No problems in moving it, it rolls so much eaiser than the old plastic casters, and the best part is no modifications needed (ie drilling)

Thanks again for the help.... Steve
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cooch366
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Sorry

Post by cooch366 »

I don't know how to add pictures directly to the post, which is why they are attachments...


cooch366 wrote:and here are 3 pictures (all 3 settings) when installed (it's nice to provide help for a change, rather than taking:) )

No problems in moving it, it rolls so much eaiser than the old plastic casters, and the best part is no modifications needed (ie drilling)

Thanks again for the help.... Steve
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

cooch366 wrote:I don't know how to add pictures directly to the post, which is why they are attachments...


After you have 'uploaded them', position the cursor where you want them to appear, then click on the paperclip.

There is another way, but. . . .

[ATTACH]16011[/ATTACH]
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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wannabewoodworker
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Post by wannabewoodworker »

JPG40504 wrote:They cost a bit more.
http://www.menards.com/main/tools-hardware/builders-hardware/utility-hardware/casters/3-dyna-tread-friction-stem-caster/p-1469161-c-9698.htm

The stem on these is too long, and the item has expired. It may get relisted.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/150385619475?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649



One thing not mentioned is the fact the SS version also as bearings in the wheels(axle) .(IIRC)
If I were to go with the 3" instead of the 2" Menards casters would the install destructions for the new SS casters still apply? I would assume so but who knows. Me thinks that getting the 3" and then removing the legs assembly from one of machines, then unbolting the existing assemblies and clamping the new ones on to test for proper positioning would suffice? And would there be any advantage to using the 3" as opposed to the 2"? I mean the clearance is still the same right Clarance?................:D Another words for those engineering minded individuals here from a physics standpoint do larger diameter wheels roll better than smaller diameter wheels?
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

wannabewoodworker wrote:If I were to go with the 3" instead of the 2" Menards casters would the install destructions for the new SS casters still apply? I would assume so but who knows. Me thinks that getting the 3" and then removing the legs assembly from one of machines, then unbolting the existing assemblies and clamping the new ones on to test for proper positioning would suffice? And would there be any advantage to using the 3" as opposed to the 2"? I mean the clearance is still the same right Clarance?................:D Another words for those engineering minded individuals here from a physics standpoint do larger diameter wheels roll better than smaller diameter wheels?

They definitely roll easier(a matter of lever length) and better over objects(same simple machine).

I would do as I did with the brand x 3" casters I got off e-bay(but without the extra set of holes:o - drilled before realizing the casters needed to be spaced from the piston[shaft excess length]).

That is mount the casters in the pistons and temporarily clamp the caster set to the leg. They will wedge as you push then further up the leg. Position them so the casters are bearing no weight when the legs are lowered. Clamp the caster set in place and check the two raised positions. IMHO 1/8" to 1/4" off the floor in the lower position and another 1/4" in the higher position. When located where you want, mark the hole location and measure the distance and take the 'average if different(within a 1/16" other wise start over). Drill new holes. After sanity check by actually mounting altered caster set, drill other legs the same as the first.

Do realize the SS casters have ball bearing wheel bearings as well as the pivot bearings(IIRC). Menards and my Brand x do not. Still a BIG improvement!!!
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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terrydowning
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Post by terrydowning »

Larger diameter wheels roll better than smaller diameter given the width is the same.

Most of the 3" wheels that will work in the sockets of the SS also have a higher weight rating 80 lbs each for the 2 inch, 150 or so for the 3 inch. Something to consider if you have permanently attached a tool cabinet under your SS.

I have no idea if the SS destructions will work with casters other than SS.
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JPG
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Post by JPG »

terrydowning wrote:Larger diameter wheels roll better than smaller diameter given the width is the same.

Most of the 3" wheels that will work in the sockets of the SS also have a higher weight rating 80 lbs each for the 2 inch, 150 or so for the 3 inch. Something to consider if you have permanently attached a tool cabinet under your SS.

I have no idea if the SS destructions will work with casters other than SS.

In addition to the wheel diameter, the axle to top of pivot(piston mating surface) dimension may be different. Then there is possible pivot swing interference.

From all the disgustion with the SS 'instructions', I would follow the method in my previous post(145) above.;)
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╟JPG ╢
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Goldie(Bought New SN 377425)/4" jointer/6" beltsander/12" planer/stripsander/bandsaw/powerstation /Scroll saw/Jig saw /Craftsman 10" ras/Craftsman 6" thicknessplaner/ Dayton10"tablesaw(restoredfromneighborstrashpile)/ Mark VII restoration in 'progress'/ 10
E[/size](SN E3779) restoration in progress, a 510 on the back burner and a growing pile of items to be eventually returned to useful life. - aka Red Grange
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Post by beeg »

[quote="JPG40504"]I would follow the method in my previous post(145) above.]


Wood ya REALLY follow THOSE instructions?:D
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trainguytom
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Post by trainguytom »

cooch366 wrote:and here are 3 pictures (all 3 settings) when installed (it's nice to provide help for a change, rather than taking:) )

No problems in moving it, it rolls so much eaiser than the old plastic casters, and the best part is no modifications needed (ie drilling)

Thanks again for the help.... Steve
Okay, maybe I'm just trying to keep life too simple, but owing to words in the above quote like "rolls so much easier" and "best part is NO modifications" & the pics showing positions, and (probably) because few of us really roll our Shopsmiths over the kind of rough terrain that necessitates bigger wheels, why go through all the trouble to re-drill, maybe take the legs off(?) when a drop in part gives you comments like those? (Mine made such a difference & work so well, that I can't even imagine that a bigger wheel would be worth the screw around time)
(what we need here is for someone to get a set of each size & do a side-by-side rollaround comparison)
Also (now see, you've got me going again) the 80 lb weight on each of 4 wheels, I think that gives overall capacity of 320 lbs. That should handle a MK5 and all but the biggest underneath cabinets, and I think the big ones that I've seen have their own wheels, don't they?
My dad's 1951 10er, 2 more 10er's, same vintage, a Goldie MK5, a 510 shortie with 34inch tubes, bandsaw, jointer, jigsaw, belt sander, a ton of small SS goodies and still looking...you just can't have enough Shopsmith stuff
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