ZCI question

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:12 am

I need to make a ZCI for my Craftsman table saw. The problem I'm facing is the stock metal insert is only 1/16" thick. I can make the insert thicker than that with a lip around the edge (which would need to be 1/2" on the sides, 3" on the back, and 1" on the front) so it sits into the opening.

Would oak or maple be strong enough to use? That lip being only 1/16" thick kind of worries me.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:22 am

heathicus wrote:I need to make a ZCI for my Craftsman table saw. The problem I'm facing is the stock metal insert is only 1/16" thick. I can make the insert thicker than that with a lip around the edge (which would need to be 1/2" on the sides, 3" on the back, and 1" on the front) so it sits into the opening.

Would oak or maple be strong enough to use? That lip being only 1/16" thick kind of worries me.

Maybe! You will not know for sure until you try. I think close grained is needed. I agree 1/16" seems small!;)

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 6:56 am

Downward pressure on the insert would be what causes the lip to be broken. When do you apply that sort of pressure to a table insert?

I think it would work (not on the Shopsmith because of the drill press) on your unit.

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 9:44 am

I'd choose the maple over the oak because of it's tight grain which likely will be stronger with the rim being that thin. Birch would be another good choice. Like Dusty said, you're not applying downward pressure on the insert so there shouldn't be a problem.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:24 pm

Just a thought... What if you cut a new aluminum insert but with a wide open center. Give it lots of open space around the blade but leave enough flange reaching into the opening that you can bolt a wooden ZCI under it by cutting the wooden piece the same size as the hole in the cast iron table and routing a 1/16" deep rabbet around the perimeter to match the hole you left in the new aluminum insert. A few small countersunk bolts or screws would hold the wooden insert in place up under the big hole insert. Having the wooden insert fit the lower hole in the table should help keep the whole thing in place. Those thin aluminum inserts can sometimes jump out kind of easily if bumped. That might help that situation.

Am I making any sense here?

.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 1:48 pm

That does make sense and I had thought of something along those lines, but I don't have the aluminum stock or the means of cutting it if I did.

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:15 pm

heathicus wrote:That does make sense and I had thought of something along those lines, but I don't have the aluminum stock or the means of cutting it if I did.

You do not have, drill bits, files, hacksaw blades and a vise?

:D

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:21 pm

Aluminum cuts real easy with a carbide crosscut blade in the table saw, but go slow and easy with the thin stuff. You could use a 1/16" thick piece of aluminum or even lexan and glue it to wood shaped to fit the inner part of the opening. Epoxy would work, or perhaps polyurethane glue. But all wood would be the easiest.

heathicus · Post by **heathicus** » Sun Jan 29, 2012 8:29 pm

JPG40504 wrote:You do not have, drill bits, files, hacksaw blades and a vise?:D

Yes, a couple very coarse ones, a couple very dull ones, and no.