Probably a dumb question but...

tom_k/mo · Post by **tom_k/mo** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 9:45 am

I'm helping my son with a project, and I need to cut some small rabbit joints. I've seen pictures where people have attached a piece of scrap board to the side of their rip fence and the dado blade sets partially under the scrap board, extended out so the cut ends up as a rabbit cut butted up to the rip fence.

I've got a 520 rip fence, what's the method of attaching said scrap board to the fence?

pennview · Post by **pennview** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 10:05 am

You could make an inverted "L" shaped fence and bolt it to the top of the 520 rip fence, using the T-slots on top of the fence.

mrhart · Post by **mrhart** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:36 am

What about the jointer?

joedw00 · Post by **joedw00** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 11:45 am

Can you just clamp it on the fence, or make a "U" channel and slip it over the fence?

dusty · Post by **dusty** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:07 pm

You could use the short miter bars that come with the feather boards but I like the inverted "L" or a "U" shaped fence that rides upon the 520 rip fence using the t-nuts to secure it in place.

reible · Post by **reible** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:31 pm

Hi,

Shopsmith sells a t-nut that is "made for the job".

4 pack item #555916
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/item ... tem=555916

They are not cheap so one of this summers project will be to make an oak set which will work for 90% of the ways I use them.

Ed

tom_k/mo wrote:I'm helping my son with a project, and I need to cut some small rabbit joints. I've seen pictures where people have attached a piece of scrap board to the side of their rip fence and the dado blade sets partially under the scrap board, extended out so the cut ends up as a rabbit cut butted up to the rip fence.

I've got a 520 rip fence, what's the method of attaching said scrap board to the fence?

charlese · Post by **charlese** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 1:08 pm

Since I really like simple solutions, You could just clamp (using small clamps) a sacrificial board to the side of the fence.

OR- - -drill two 1/4" holes through the fence to look like the holes Shopsmith put in the 510 fence. Then carriage bolts through a straight board and through the fence would hold the sacrificial fence in place.

robinson46176 · Post by **robinson46176** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 2:33 pm

charlese wrote:Since I really like simple solutions, You could just clamp (using small clamps) a sacrificial board to the side of the fence.

OR- - -drill two 1/4" holes through the fence to look like the holes Shopsmith put in the 510 fence. Then carriage bolts through a straight board and through the fence would hold the sacrificial fence in place.

I just noticed when I moved my original Mark VII that it has 4 tapped holes into the side of the fence that look factory and unused.

My Ridgid TS-3650 has slots that accept a square headed bolt. It came with a few and I have not looked to see if they are a special size or if a standard sized square headed bolt will fit.

Just sitting here thinking about it maybe I will leave my Mark VII normally sat up with a dado set and an added thick and tall sacrificial fence. The very large table and extension system should serve very well for dado work. Of course I can always switch setups around but it might be the handiest if I try to leave it like that as much as possible.
I was just wondering if I would have to make a dado insert for the main table since the the one I bought with my 510 wouldn't work. I couldn't remember what the one in the Mark VII even looked like since I had never had it out. I just ran downstairs and looked (I am liking having the shop there

) and kind of surprisingly it is identical to the regular old Mark V inserts. I have a couple of those dado / molder inserts.

Problem solved.

.

fjimp · Post by **fjimp** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 4:00 pm

reible wrote:Hi,

Shopsmith sells a t-nut that is "made for the job".

4 pack item #555916
http://www.shopsmith.com/ownersite/itemfind.htm?item=555916

They are not cheap so one of this summers project will be to make an oak set which will work for 90% of the ways I use them.

Ed

I agree with Ed, the 520 fence and the t-nuts are made for one another. I use the two together frequently with great success. Given the cost of hardwood and how easily one can destroy it, I for one feel the T-nut is a bargain. Jim

JPG · Post by **JPG** » Sat Feb 04, 2012 5:26 pm

mrhart wrote:What about the jointer?

The older jointer fences have two 1/4" holes, but the spacing is different from the rip fence.

Not sure re the later jointer, since I have a vague recollection of them being different.